Step 8Wiring
This part is fairly simple but this can be frustrating if you don't know how the wiring is arranged. If you are uncertain with circuitry then I suggest that you follow my instructions exactly. if you are good with circuitry then you could make your own circuit.
Take note of of the battery pack, the four leads should be labeled P1,P2,N1 and N2 the P stands for positive and N is for negative, in my case P1 and N1 are connected and will have 12V and P2 N2 are the same but insulated .
For the wiring, refer to the twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth and fifteenth pages
wile viewing page elven and twelve. Follow the wiring list given. All of the points on the list should be soldered as one in each column on the list .
w1 w 2 w 3 w 4 w 5 w6 w7
P1 N1 P2 N2 E2 M1 M2
C1 A1 C2 A2 D1 F1 F2
B1 E1 D2 B2
Once you have done all of this you might want double check the circuit for shorts or any other problems, then you would have what is seen on the first image.
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That's more than enough current to melt those switches your using, my guess is that as with most cheap motors, its not putting out near what its rated at. Probably more around .3 - .5 HP
But still, for a drill that's an awesome bit of power :D
and 16 of 'em can't make over 19 vdc or so ..
And 750w/hp divided by 19 is about 39amps, lots less than 50 .. and its only drawing that much current momentarily/rarely , if it ever does!
And that kind of amperage is a theoretical 'max' but is totally dependent upon the electron source being able to keep up with that demand ..
What happens in reality is that the battery voltage will drop substantially , and not be able to put out that kind of power ( Iexp2xR).
Motor specs are very different from power supply specs!
The point is that your instructable does the job, was well-written, and was interesting to review!