Step 3Cutting and Preparing the Fabric
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You can print a copy of the pattern here. Currently I only have the pattern in one size so it
will be incumbent upon you to resize it to your own measurements. Feel free to message
me if you need some tips on how to proceed.
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Cut two copies of each pattern piece from your coutil material and your exterior fabric
Figure 3-1a & 3-1b. You will need to flip your pattern piece over for the second copy so
you are creating a mirror image of the first.
If you are using a patterned fabric take a moment to visualize how the panels will
compliment each other and plan your cutting accordingly. Consider Figure 3-2, there
are depicted three possible orientations for the front panels. The pair on the left looks
relatively bland and unbalanced. The middle pair don't compliment each other; one side
is dominated flowers and the other leaves. The pair on the right would be my choice.
I like to use weights to hold my patterns in place while cutting. Not only is it much quicker
than pinning, it also keeps the fabric from shifting. The blue things you see in the images
are zip-lock bags, filled with about three pounds of steel shot, wrapped in duct tape.
If your fabric has a tendency to fray, apply a small amount of Fray Check to the edges.
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Machine baste each fashion fabric piece to its complimentary coutil piece, wrong sides
together Figure 3-3a & 3-3b. If your sewing machine lacks a walking foot you might find
it better to hand baste the pieces together or else risk the pieces slipping and creating
untidy bunches in the material.
When all of your pieces are joined, press with a steam iron. Each pair can now be treated
as a single piece of fabric that is structurally suitable for corset making.
You will inevitably have a small amount of overlap on your basted pieces. Trim the
exterior fabric to the shape of the coutil fabric. Do NOT trim the coutil fabric. Figure 3-4
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Cut two copies of each pattern piece from your lining material. You will need to flip your
pattern piece over for the second copy so you are creating a mirror image of the first.
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