Corset for the Business Professional

Step 5 Insert Busk Closure

Part 1: Mark Loop Side Placement
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Center the loop side of your busk on the wrong side of your right front panel,
approximately 5/8 inch from the edge. Mark the location of the loops as shown in
Figure 5-1. Mark lines perpendicular to the termination points of the previous markings
as shown in Figure 5-2.

Part 2: Stitch Loop Side Pockets
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Pin the external right front panel you just marked (right side facing in) to the lining right 
front panel.

Please watch the embedded video below before beginning.

Stitch a seam 5/8 inch from the edge, skipping over the pockets you marked in Part 1.
You will notice that I start the seam at the midpoint between each pocket, back-stitch
until I reach the top end, forward-stitch to the bottom end and then back-stitch again until
returning to the starting point. This is very important. If you terminate your seam too close
to the pocket the busk will slowly work its way loose when worn.
 

Part 3: Insert Loop Side of Busk and Stitch into Place
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Fold open the seam allowance you just created and insert the loop side of your busk. Pay
attention to its orientation. You want the side with the raised loops facing away from your
body when you are wearing it. See Figure 5-3.

Fold the lining over the busk as shown in Figure 5-4.

Attach your zipper foot. Using your external thread, stitch 5/8 inch from the edge, catching
the front facing and trapping the busk in place Figure 5-5.

Part 4: Attach the Lining to the Left Side
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Pin the left front lining panel to the left front external panel (right sides facing in). Stitch
a seam with your internal thread 5/8 inch from the edge. Figure 5-6

Part 5: Mark Placement of Hook Side
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Fold over the left front lining and align with the front edge of the right half of the corset.
Insert pins into the hook side, centered vertical between loops (horizontal position is
irrelevant) Figure 5-7 .

Mark sure your pins are secure and lift off the loop side of the busk. Flip the hook side
over and mark a horizontal line perpendicular to the seam where each pin pokes
through Figure 5-8.

Measure the distance from the forward edge of the hook side of your busk to the center of
a hook. Place a vertical mark on the lines you previously created, at a distance from the
seam equal to what you just measured on the busk.

Part 6: Insert Hook Side and Stitch into Place
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Press an awl through the intersection of the marks you made in the previous step.
Ideally you do not want to break the fabric fibers. Instead, you merely spread the fibers
enough that the hooks of the busk can pass through, allowing for the hole to close up
cleanly around the base of the hook Figure 5-9.

Insert the busk hooks through the holes.

Fold the lining over and sew in place with a zipper foot and your external thread as you did
in part 3 above for the loop side of the busk.

Comments

[skaar]

so, the outer fabric is folded over the coutil to hold the busk? so, it'd have to be a pretty strong fabric... or, what? the lining... in the text... um, do you have the pictures out of order?

[lw119]

The pictures are in the correct order. The outer fabric and the coutil were bound together in step 3 such that they are in step 5 treated as a single piece of fabric.

The busk is slid into pocket formed in the seam between the outer fabric (coutil + outer fabric prior to step 3) and the lining. When you fold the lining over and stitch the busk in place. It ends up sandwiched between a double layer of the outer fabric (coutil + outer fabric prior to step 3) and a double layer of the lining fabric. In step 7 in my other corset instructable here there is a photo of the busk insertion from another angle that might clear things up.

If you were adding a significant reduction (probably not a good idea if you are wearing it to work) a second layer of coutil in place of the lining might be prudent. However the intent of this corset is to emphasize your current shape not give you a new one.

Thanks for the question. Please let know if this did not clear things up.

[skaar]

just before the page reload, i thought i had it... allowance in the coutil, all the layers folded sewn together, the coutil folded over, taking the other layers with it to make the pocket. i'll get it eventually, been wanting to make a gross of corsets for friends... mostly as gifts for them.

i guess cutting the holes in the coutil for the hooks to go through would weaken it?

[lw119]

Yeah, I would definitely not slit the coutil.

If you want to make a bunch of corsets I would recommend my other corset instructable. It has a much simpler pattern and is way more forgiving if your off a bit in your measurements. Also, I added a lot of information on the basics in that one that I did not repeat in this one. I would give you a link but the Rich Editor button is unresponsive at the moment.

Let me know if you cant get it figured out. I can make you a video if you need it.

[skaar]

part of the fun is figuring it out, and if i figured it out now, too much time would be taken from my other projects. i spose there's other people that would like some clarification... they can read it here.