Step 7: Assembly: the upper

The Upper

1. Hem the straight edge of the toe piece (line A) by folding the seam allowance to the right (top) side of the fabric and stitching by hand (overedge stitch/ running stitch or back stitch) using the darning wool or you could use a machine. I did not need to do this as I used the cuff so the seam was already finished. (See next step for how to do the stitches).

2. With right/top sides up, align the short seam line of the heel piece (A/4) with the straight edge seamline (A) of the toe piece so that the toe piece overlaps the heel piece and the straight sides form an L and the curved seams are aligned.

3. Starting at the bottom (the curved side) secure the thread by stiching over the edge a couple of times then backstitch the two pieces together (see the next step for how to backstitch) or machine stitch them together.

4. Turn the pieces over and overcast/oversew the flap of heel piece to the toe piece (wrong side)

5. Curve the other end of the heel piece round to meet the other end of the toe piece (seam A) and repeat.

6. Hem the straight side of the heel piece in a similar way to the toe piece (you could easily do this before you attach the two bits together instead)

7. Hooray- you’ve finished the upper… It’s looking more shoe like now.

• Mark the midpoint of both your pieces with a pin (I’ve used a red one in the photos). This will simplify things later when you come to attach the sole.