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Signing UpStep 1: Basic setup of the saw
Cove cuts can be made on a table saw. Here you see the basic setup on a radial arm saw. The workpiece is guided by two fences with one on each side of the workpiece. The two fences blend into the background in the photo, so I outlined their working edges with red lines.
In order to achieve a smaller radius cut, I used the 7 1/4 inch blade from my circular saw rather than the usual 10 inch blade normally used on my radial arm saw. The motor is tilted to about 45 degrees so the teeth bite into the wood more easily as it is pushed toward the saw. Notice that the motor has also been rotated clockwise a few degrees (as viewed from above the motor) so that the yoke is no longer fully in the crosscut position. The spoon handle lever that locks the yoke (yellow arrow) was loosened to allow the motor to rotate and is again locked to hold the motor in position.











































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I would recommend that the proposed guide have a thorough safety section.
They are useful though, and dirt cheap, used. I have to stay mobile, and so use a sliding compound miter saw which weighs a bit less, but it won't do this.
I use the tablesaw variation of this trick on an almost daily basis to cove out the back of door and window casings when the jambs aren't in the same plane as the wall. It lets both edges of the casing sit tight to the wall, rather than rocking on the high edge. When I have used it to mill replacement mouldings (for historic renovations), I find that taking a few minutes to make a profiled scraper is worthwhile. It produces a smoother, "crisper" result then sandpaper.
A custom scraper is a good idea, especially if your setup does not change. The radial arm saw is my multi-purpose tool and I constantly change the setup for different jobs. It would be very difficult to setup for the same profile I used to make the scraper.
Thanks for your comments.
I posted a few things I have learned to do with a radial arm saw and got comments indicating many folks these days are not familiar with them. I have been trying to demonstrate some information about a greatly overlooked tool.
I learned once the edges of carbide tips make a good knife sharpener. Those things are tough.
I am doing housekeeping in my garage (after will be the turn of the shed in the background, and after the attic) before starting to work on my construction projects. One of them is a "poor man's radial arm saw"
I wish you well with your "poor man's radial arm saw." If I can answer any questions about these saws to help your work, please ask. I think I mentioned the Craig's List web pages. I continue to see good used radial arm saws available for only $50 to $100 US. One of those would save you so much effort.
Apart from that, I love designing, cutting, welding, to err and use bad language, cut back until the thing takes shape.
English: http://buenosaires.en.craigslist.org/
Spanish: http://buenosaires.es.craigslist.org/
I tried to check some of the listings. It may be more difficult to find a radial arm saw there. Check the "Free" listings, too. Sometimes people give away amazing things.
All of the bad language you may use needs plenty of beer to go with it.
If you recall the "Guide to Kiteman" that came out last December, although Sarah was the official Staff "publisher," it was myself and a small band of conspirators who gave her the list of I'bles to include.
A use for the radial that I had not considered before.
When I was doing the cross shown in the last frame, I used pusher sticks to hold things down and keep my fingers far, far away from the blade. I also clamped any kind of stop block to the table I could to assist in accurately and securely holding the pieces in place while I made the cove cuts.