Final Mouse.JPG
Crazy Mouse is a computer mouse that runs away when you are going to catch it!



Making this mouse is very easy: a light sensor detects the shadow of hand on the mouse and activates a timer that turns on a motor for about a second and the motor makes mouse running.
If you want to make your own mouse read the rest of this instructable.

Step 1: Things You Need

Things You Need for Circuit.JPG
Things You Need.JPG
To make the circuit board you need the followings:
  -Copper Boards
  -Printed Circuit (Find files on next step)
  -Photocell
  -22k Resistor
  -47uF Electrolyte Capacitor
  -TIP122 Transistor
  -555 IC
  -10k Potentiometer
  -Some Wire
  -Iron
  -Soldering Iron
  -Soldering Wire
  -Circuit Boards Acid
  -Paper Tape
  -Sandpaper
  -Wire Cutter
  -1mm Drill
 
To make the mouse you need the followings:
  -Old Computer Mouse
  -Small Motor
  -4 AA Batteries
  -A piece of Rubber Tube
  -Glue
  -1N4148 Diode
  -0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor (104)
  -Soldering Iron
  -Soldering Wire
  -Some Wire
  -Some Tools

Step 3: Making Circuit Board

1. Clear the copper side of the board from oxides with sandpaper.
2. Put the both sides of printed circuit on the board and fix them with paper tape.
3. Put the board between some pieces of paper and press the hot iron (without steam) on it for a while. (BE CAREFUL: The hot iron may lead to firing of papers)
4. Remove the printed circuit of the board.
5. Soak board in a bowl of circuit board acid and wait till all the visible copper disappears. (BE CAREFUL: You are working with acid)
6. Wash the board and clear it with sandpaper.
7. Make holes with 1mm drill.

Step 5: Making Mouse Case Ready

Open the mouse cover and remove its useless components and parts. (There are some SPDT switches and some shaft encoders in the mouse you can use them in other projects!)
Make a place for motor and potentiometer with your tools.
Drill a small hole on the back of the mouse to place the photocell behind it.

Step 6: Placing the Motor

Attaching Motor.JPG
Rubber Tube on the Motor Shaft.JPG
Put the rubber tube on the motor shaft and attach the motor inside the mouse with some glue.
The motor must be able to rotate the mouse ball.

Step 7: Placing the Potentiometer

Attching Mouse Wheel to Potentiometer.JPG
Attaching Circuit and Potentiometer.JPG
Attach the potentiometer to the mouse wheel and fix its position with some glue.

Step 8: Soldering Motor Components

Specifying Motor Poles.JPG
Noise and Back EMF Protection.JPG
Soldering Motor Wires.JPG
Find the motor poles that make the mouse move forward with two wires and batteries.
Solder the 1N4148 diode reverse to the motor connectors. (Back EMF protection)
Solder the 100nF ceramic capacitor to the motor connectors. (Noise protection)
Do not solder these components on the board or somewhere far from the motor, solder them right on the motor.
Solder the motor wires coming from the circuit to the motor.

Step 9: Attaching Photocell

Attaching Light Sensor.JPG
Attach the photocell right behind the hole you made on the mouse back with glue.

Step 10: Power Supply

Supply Wires.JPG
Cutting Mouse Wire.JPG
Inside Crazy Mouse.JPG
Solder two of mouse wires to the circuit power supply wires.
Cut the connector at the other end of the mouse wire and solder the wires to a battery holder.
You can use the power coming through the mouse wire from the computer main board instead of cutting mouse connector and using 4 batteries but it is not recommended because it may cause damages to your main board.

Step 11: Ready to Action

Making Mouse Ready.JPG
Mouse Ready to Action.JPG
1. Close the mouse cover.
2. Hide the batteries behind the computer.
3. Rotate the mouse wheel till the motor turns off.
4. Gently rotate back the mouse wheel till the motor turns on.
5. Rotate the mouse wheel a little in reverse direction and wait about a second, continue this till the motor turns off.
6. Put the mouse ball under the mouse.
7. NOW TRY TO CATCH THE MOUSE!


Step 12: Optimization

Final Mouse.JPG
If you want the mouse to run more use a higher value electrolyte capacitor.
If you want the mouse to work in darker areas use a higher value potentiometer.
And if you use a gearbox after motor and connect it to a wheel instead of mouse ball, certainly you will get better result.
thecheatscalc says: Mar 2, 2010. 3:19 PM
Definitely try USB power! I'd reccomend using perhaps a few USB plugs, such as in the attached picture (USB powered grill)

thecheatscalc says: Mar 2, 2010. 3:20 PM
sorry, forgot to click "upload" ;)
usb_powered_bbq_7.jpg
TechDante says: Jan 31, 2011. 3:24 AM
how long does it take to cook something on that
louwhopley says: Mar 5, 2010. 6:39 AM
 Hahaha, a normal grill would cost cheaper/look better? Fun stuff
thecheatscalc says: Mar 4, 2010. 2:19 PM
I should have mentioned, this isn't my picture, I'm not exactly sure whose it is, (I've seen it multiple places)
Houdinipeter says: Mar 3, 2010. 3:01 PM
 lol did you get the extra usb cards just for this? sweeet
Redgerr says: Mar 3, 2010. 11:08 AM
E P I C
thecheatscalc says: Mar 4, 2010. 2:18 PM
It's not mine, it's just something I remember from a while back. should've mentioned that...

anyways, if you want to power it with just the computer, it CAN be done ;)
jakebaldwin says: Dec 30, 2010. 12:30 PM
If you have a USB port on your computer, you could power the mouse thinger off USB power. USB supplies 5 Volts, but you could make the right adjustments easily I think.

I have a USB REAL mouse, so it would make sense for me to make the mouse that way I think.
maclakey says: Oct 28, 2010. 9:18 PM
Yay! I completed this as my first "from scratch" board... it works, but only if you keep the circuit board near your body... take it away from your body, and it doesn't work... very strange. I did have to switch the tip122 with a tip120 as that was all I could find, and I used a 470uf cap instead of a 47... did I go too big on the cap?
vahid_you2004 (author) says: Oct 30, 2010. 7:03 AM
Check your board carefully there may be some short circuits or loss of connections.......
w477s says: May 14, 2010. 5:23 AM
you used IR LED + IR photodetector or ir detector only?
vahid_you2004 (author) says: May 16, 2010. 4:06 AM
None of them.
I used one simple photocell, it is not IR.
ak49er says: Apr 4, 2010. 12:38 PM

Only way it would get any better is with a loud "squeak" recording and if it acclerated faster, so it just LEAPS away from the person's hand. Hmmmm my engineering prof. always leaves his door wide open when he is away.....

sgchr says: Mar 27, 2010. 10:16 AM
That's the craziest idea I've seen so far for a mouse. Good one! ;)
TinkerJim says: Mar 25, 2010. 9:44 AM
You've come up with a great project!!

If you want longer battery life, try the new CSS555 micropower timer.   It is pin compatible with the venerable 555's, but uses far less power.

 
directcurrent13 says: Mar 16, 2010. 8:00 PM
i have a 9 volt motor as far as i can tell i should be able to run the board of a 9 volt batery. is this ok?
vahid_you2004 (author) says: Mar 18, 2010. 5:19 AM
You can use a 9V battery.
555 IC works correctly with 9V battery.
But you may need to optimize potentiometer value. (see the last step)
directcurrent13 says: Mar 18, 2010. 7:06 PM
thanks for the help
darkbain says: Mar 13, 2010. 2:49 AM
This is a sweet project with huge potential.  I love it and if I get the chance to clean up my personal shop ( little space wifey allows me to have).   I wil make this to mess with my nephews who love to play games on my puter lol.  Thanks a ton for this, plus it's a koo 555 ic timer project that could be used for tons of stuff.
pedla says: Mar 12, 2010. 10:35 AM
Sounds cool but is way beyond my level of computer parts and stuff
M.C. Langer says: Mar 8, 2010. 4:19 PM
I LOVE IT!!! It would be a good prank for April's Fool!!!!!
framistan says: Mar 4, 2010. 5:37 AM
You COULD use USB power simply by adding a SERIES resistor to the USB voltage to LIMIT the amperage going to the mouse.  That voltage would slowly charge a capacitor inside the mouse.  Because the motor only runs a couple seconds, the capacitor could supply that. Then when the mouse stops,  the capacitor would start charging again.  Even if you held the mouse down and stopped mouse from "running"... the motor amperage would increase but could not exceed what the current-limiting resistor is supplying.  so your USB port will be safe in all instances.
knektek says: Mar 3, 2010. 12:47 PM
put a speaker in there and an amp circuit to scare the living shi* out of them.
Fujitsa says: Mar 3, 2010. 4:36 AM
haha, brilliant idea, you should definitely have video responses of when people try to use it, maybe also make like a mouse that screeches when someone goes to near to it lol. Good job
Javin007 says: Mar 3, 2010. 9:15 AM
LMMFAO!  I love the screeching idea.

"EEK!" *scurry away*
Jur says: Mar 3, 2010. 5:51 AM
I forwarded this to a friend who is in uni right now, so in the near future there might be a classroom with a couple of haunted mice... =P
hg341 says: Mar 2, 2010. 10:42 AM

nice you need to make it usb powered

vahid_you2004 (author) says: Mar 2, 2010. 11:25 AM
You can do it but if the motor gets more than 0.5A electric current from your USB port your main board will be damaged. Because of this I recommend batteries or a fuse.
codongolev says: Mar 2, 2010. 2:18 PM
yay resistors!

you should find a faster motor... it only works on absent-minded people.
sjoobbani says: Mar 2, 2010. 11:00 PM
 Very nice.
Ahmedqatar says: Mar 2, 2010. 3:03 PM
This is really funny .. it's a gopd way to bug my boss!
Thanks for sharing!!!
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