Step 7: Creating the Cartridge Pockets
The first step in creating the pockets is to sew the pocket depth onto the pocket front. This is done by stitching the depth around the front on 3 sides at your chosen seam allowance, right sides together. There will be a diagonal clip required at both of the corners in order to get crisp corners (Image 1).
After this, hem the tops of the pockets (now including the top of the pocket depth) by folding the fabric over 1/4" and then 1/4" again, assuming you are using 1/2" seam allowance (image 2).
Once thus is is done, press the side of the pocket depth NOT already sewn inward toward the pocked inside at 1/2" (or your seam allowance), and press the pocket top and depth in a folded fashion, so that the depth is underneath the pocket front.
Next, topstitch (essentially sew right along your folded depth edge) the pocket depth to the ear flap, lining up the top of the pocket with the bottom of the hat band. The exact placement of the pocket is entirely up to you, but I chose to place mine about 1 1/2" away from the raw edge of the ear flap.
The next step is to create the pocket top flap. Fold this piece lengthwise, and stitch around the open edges, leaving an opening to turn the flap right side out. After pressing this flat and folding the raw edges of the hole area into the flap innards, lay the pocket flap slightly above and over the pocket itself (with the edge with the hole in it furthest away from the pocket). Then, topstitch the top of the pocket flap (image 3)
Finish with a good pressing!
NOTE: If the whole pocket depth aspect is confusing, you could also just press the pocket front piece so that there are finished edges, and topstitch this piece onto the hat. This is a more sleek look, and requires less time.
***Don't lose hope, you're almost done!***