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Here is an instructibe for those who live in a dwelling without Washer and Dryer Connections.  I came up with this setup because I can't stand going to the laundry matt.  I hope this helps you.  KEEP IN MIND!!!!  This instructible setup is geared to a situation where you will not be interfering with any plumbing or electrical in the building.  I know there are other ways to obtain the same results.  So please think before you ask why I did things a certain way.  I have this setup at my current apartment and I love it.  The picture you see is how it is currently setup.  This would be really good with a stackable unit.  We will begin this setup with the Dryer electrical setup.

Step 1: Breaker Box Identification and Labeling

Needed Items:
-2 standard electrical plugs from Hardware store.
-2 Cut to length 12-3 electrical cord from Hardware Store. (You will determine length)
-3 Yellow crimp connectors with the washer type connector.

Determine where dryer will be setup.  Remember that you will need a spot close enough to a place to be able to vent the heat exhaust from dryer.

1.  Locate Breaker box in house.
2.  Look at panel labeling.
3  You need 240 volts to make this work.
4.  You will need to choose 2 house outlets that are fed by 2 different breakers that are touching each other in the breaker box. Example (The Regrigerator 14, and the Kitchen plugs 16) are touching each other according to labeling.  Clearly the labeling is wrong in my apt., but you should get the Idea. 2 breakers touching each other, or right below it will give you 240 volts.
4. Measure the distances from the back of dryer to the determined outlets.  This will be your 2 "cut to length electrical cords.


Here is a quick helper also.  Label the top left breaker "A" and the Next one down "B".   Then the third one down "A",  the fourth "B" and so on.  Do that for each side.  As long you find a house outlet with  a setup that has an "A" and a "B", this will give you 240 volts.


Step 2: Wiring the Plugs for Your Dryer

Preparing the cord.  Cut the insulation back to expose about 1/2 inch of the conductor in each the black, white, and green wire.

1. Prepare the electrical chords for one of the "Cut to Fit" electrical cords.
2. Take the prepared black wire and the green wire and twist the two copper leads together and insert them in the side of the plug that has the gold screw.
3. Take the prepared white wire and insert it in the side of the plug with the silver screw.
4.  Follow steps 1,2, and 3 again for the second "cut to fit" electricak cord.

<<<<<<< DO NOT PLUG IN YET>>>>>>>>>

5.  Go to the electrical pannel in back of dryer and remove plate to expose electrical connections.  Remove other installed plug if one exists.
6.  Pepare the ends where the two cords will come together for this connection.
7. Note the green and black from one cord goes to one side.  The green and black from the other cord goes to the other side, and the white wire from each cord comes together
to give you a double wire for the common connection in the middle.

ONCE YOU MAKE THE CONNECTION AT THE BACK OF THE DRYER!!!!!  YOU CAN THEN PLUG THE OTHER ENDS INTO THE WALL!!!!!   NOT BEFORE!!!!!!!!  YOU WILL LIGHT UP LIKE A TREE!!!!!!!

Step 3: Exhaust Placement From Dryer.

I used my window with two pieces of plexy glass I had on hand with a small towell to block any exhaust from comming back into the apt.

REMEMBER:  This is only temporary.  It does not stay like this.  Only when I do Laundry.

You may now test the dryer.  If you don't get any heat out of the exhaust.........  You didn't find the right plug combinations to give you 240 volts.  If you hear a click from the breaker box..... you might have tripped the breaker.  May need to find different plug for power source or unplug other devices utilizing the same breaker.

Step 4: Cold Water Washer Connections to Faucet

Needed Items
1 water hose cap to plug hot water connection in back of washer.
1 water hose with 1/2 inch inner diameter.  I used a 50 foot hose.  You will cut to length.




1.  Remove Hot Water Connection from back of washer and cap it with a plug cap from Hardware store.
2.  Use cold water hose that is connected to back of washer and connect the male end of the 1/2 inch water hose to it.  Secure it tight to prevent leaking.  (VERY IMPORTANT)
3.  Connect cut end of the cold water hose to the Kitchen faucet configuration.

Step 5: Water Fauced Contraption

Needed Items:  (ALL PVC IS 1/2" SCHEDULE 40)

 PVC Glue
Pipe tape for all pvd threaded connections
2  PVC 90 with one end threaded.
1 T
1 Plug
3 cut to fit pipes about 2 inches each.  Connects the 90's to the T
1 threaded to nipple connector. (This will connect the water hose from washer to faucet)
3 hose clamps
1 2 inch piece of rubber hose to make connection from faucet to pvc.  I picked this up at the Hardware store in the plumbing section where you can buy it by the foot.  I only needed to buy 6 inches.

1 Figure out the best configuration for yourself.  Look to the yellow picture description for better explanation.

Step 6: Washer Drain Connection

Needed Items.

PVC Glue
Pipe tape for all pvc threaded connections
1- 1/2 inch coupler
1-  cut to fit pipe about 2-3 inches long
1- 1/2 inch coupler to threaded connector
1- 1/2" threaded to 1/2" nipple connector
2 hose clamps

The picture should be self explanatory.

Build the piece according to picture and connect the ends.

Make sure it doesn't leak.

Step 7: Good Luck and Happy Washing.

All electrical is based off of the voltage configuration for North America.

 For my setup, I can only wash a load, then dry a load.  I can't use both machines at the same time or I trip a breaker.

<p>Thank you for the effort and sharing. Looks great to me , Thanks for the voltage configuration help....will give a try soon... :)</p>
You're welcome. Good luck.
How far is your washer to your sink for draining and how to keep the draining water from going back in washer?
Probably about 15 feet because I routed it around the walls. The washer was on a pedestal. Nothing ever drained backwards.
<p>I just love how simple projects upset the EE's, Engineers, and scardey cats. This setup worked for 10 years and saved me several thousand dollars. I admit I was wrong about the back feeding voltage. I did my own &quot;Home experiment&quot;. Check out my &quot;let it glow safety. Also... the last EE'S comment indicated that it might save his life... lmao. EE'S don't work on power lines. Some people, even smart EE'S, have a problem with DIY people. OSHA is so far up their rear, they can't smell themselves. If you need a disclaimer to make yourself feel safe in life... get off instructables. Ideas and inventions are created by people with inspiration. Don't let these cowards stop your imagination. Sure people can die. We're all going to end up that way one day. Be as safe as best you can. Stay creative and outside the box of other thinkers. They just don't get it. What people like us imagine and create naturally, others have to try and get educated through schools. Keep up with your imagination. </p>
<p>I have small 2.0 front load washer it is hooked up to my kitchen drain It is broken and I want to up size to a regular top loader but need to install a regular drain is this a big deal</p>
It will take longer to drain during cycles because it uses more water. All you can do is try. Maybe you can get a bigger drain hose.
<p>This is a horribly ugly hack that could kill you! All electrical equipment needs to be grounded so that when something goes wrong the breaker trips and kills the power.</p><p>A fault in the setup will energize all exposed metal to a voltage that can be lethal! </p><p>Combined with a poor selection of plumbing fittings you are creating a setup for fires and shocks. </p>
I realize some people, like yourself, are afraid of projects like this. You fail to realize that there are millions of homes across the nation that were built to code without grounds. New homes are required to have this. Furthermore, if you have an appliance with a 240 v 3 prong plug, it's not grounded either. This setup worked flawlessly for 5 years. Before you criticize something, make sure that you know the facts. It's people like you that keep mankind from progress. I bet you would have been complaining about the Wright brother's!
Here's an update. I have been using this setup for 4 years this month of November 2014. I haven't had any problems. I can't run the dryer and the microwave at the same time, but that's not a problem considering how much money I've saved in rent, gas, and laundry machine fees. This project has been well worth the 100 dollar investment it took to put it together. I would estimate that I have saved over 3000 dollars mostly towards rent if I was in a unit with the connections. I am pleased.
<p>Hello, palombo5050. I want to follow your method but my problem is my breaker in my apartments's box slot numbers are not set up like yours are. For the left side they are A.100 B.100. A.50 B.50 A.25 B.25 A.15 Right side: A.20 B.20 A.25 B.25 A.15 </p><p>I uploaded two pictures below to show you what i'm talking about. Could you lend your eyes and expertise and tell me if it is possible to hook up an electric dryer with the way my current breakers are set up in my apt?</p><p>(It is possible the apartment's original leasing workers/ electricians thought two steps ahead and probably put it where someone couldn't do this exact same thing) or maybe i'm just thinking to much and don't know what i am looking at or how to configure it but your help will be greatly appreciated. </p><p><br></p><p>(I just resigned a 12 month lease, 3 months ago and me and my husband who is a military service member were thinking about breaking our lease and paying the large fine to get an apartment elsewhere which had washer/dryer connection but he is frugal and is not going to give away money to leasing apartment. The downside to all that is we can't keep jumping up and going to the bank for $20 quarters every time his uniforms and my large load of clothes need cleaning. I'ts frustrating to carry down flights of steps, time consuming and costly (gas wise and washing wise because large loads cost more at laundrymat). The benefits of this solution far outweigh the cons. I am a realistic person so if my breakers won't work in this situation then you can tell me. I just want your opinion on the matter). my email is business91492@gmail.com if you rather answer in email. Thank you</p>
I'm sorry it took so long to respond. I can't see the images clearly. I'm sure that you have figured it out by now.
<p>Really neat</p>
I like the 'ible. I gotta say though.... No disrespect, but I've seen my share of people using two separate 110 outlets and/or breakers ... and slight variations on that theme in order to run a 220 or higher dryer... sooner or later it can end up causing problems. Although I've done tons of electrical work I'm not a licensed electrician so I'm not 100% sure why, since mathematically two 110's = a single 220, but I do know from working on many apartments where people have done this that I've seen some scary end results. (my guess is that you don't get an even pull of electricity from each breaker and one outlet becomes more dominant, carrying more of the load.) I even know of this use of two 110 outlets to run a 220 stove. it wasn't pretty. ..... from the pic of your breaker-box it looks like you might have the space to put a 220 breaker with a dedicated line going to a single 220 outlet. Breakers are cheap and easy to install. and an outlet and all the parts are pretty cheap. your biggest expense would be the heavy gauge wire going from the breaker to the outlet.
<p>I think the issue sometimes is just that the two 110V outlets might not be in phase, so you're not really getting 220V peak. This can be a problem I guess for a single-phase 220V motor, and cause excess current and heat in the windings. Anyway I don't quite know enough about this stuff...:S </p>
I've never had a problem. If you look at the schematics of a dryer. The drive motor is 110vac. The timing circuits are 110vac. The only component running off the 240vac is the heating element. No worries on phase schronizing. In my situation, there was only 1 transformer feeding my building. The fact that my water heater and stove worked properly indicated that I have 240vac.
<p>Hmm, interesting. I've never actually seen a dryer schematic. Also the water heater and stove are heating elements so like you say they do not necessarilyy indicate much about your power phase but its RMS value yeah (though also maybe the power switching devices need 0V so maybe it does indicate something about your power...I don't know.)<br><br>I similarly don't think this has to be a problem and I think your instructable is a clever solution, but I think it's fair to expect some flak for it. Being not-allowed and all. Everyone has their own threshold and plenty of people might overstep theirs and do stupid stuff.<br><br></p>
<p>If you are in the USA, this is illegal. We use the National Electrical Code (NEC) to install electrical equipment in a safe manner. Will this work? Yes, but it is very dangerous. The green wire is only to be used as a ground. All conductors must be in the same cable, you are going in two cords to two different receptacles. A single 240V load must be controlled by a single double-pole breaker. Things like this are why I wouldn't live in an apartment building. You never know what kind of unsafe things your neighbor is doing on the other side of the wall.</p>
Awesome! Looking forward to seeing more great stuff from you! Thanks for sharing! Have a splendorous day! <br><br>Sunshiine
I am still using it today. It works great. Has saved me lots of money and time
I will be on the look out!
OOPs!!! I just realized that someone did this same thing in 2009. Well, Maybe you can get another perspective about this.

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Bio: I like to tinker and build things that seem fun to do.
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