How to Make Easy Soap Molds

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Introduction: Create Your Own Quick Soap (or Other Craft) Molds

About: More projects at: http://www.soapyhollow.com/how-to-make/ , at soapyhollow.com. All content uses a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

Sometimes, you may have a soap idea, but can't find a commercial mold that fits your need, or you just want to create something silly or personal. For those times, making your own mold is your best option. Mind you, this method does not create professional grade silicon molds that will hold up to hundreds and hundreds of pours, but they are pretty amazingly durable and all of the materials are easily available almost anywhere.
For this lesson, Igor and I decided to try and make crystal soap and rock soap. As it turns out, I made too much silicon, so we also made a shell soap.

Step 1: Measure Mold Materials and Find Moldable Objects

For this, we're using Amazing Mold Putty from the Alumilite Corporation of Kalamazoo. (I just love typing Kalamazoo.) The product is by and far the easiest mold product to use for the novice, plus it is food grade silicon and made in the US. Because it's food grade, you can use it to mold ice cubes and chocolate and other nummies. The company sells it in bulk quantities, but you can get small containers of it at the craft store for a fairly low price point. (Sub $15.00)
Here is a tablespoon of each of the mixes, and the objects we were originally going to mold.(We added the shell after I upped the amount of mold materials.)

Step 2: Mix Mold Components Together

You mix equal parts of each component together until they are a uniform yellow color with no streaks.It is a bit like playing with slightly oily play dough. But it's so easy, even a child can do it. See, here is a child doing it.

Step 3: Mold Your Objects

Once the mix is ready, you have about 15 minutes to get it around the object you are going to use. The best method is to roll a ball of it up, so you don't have any seams, then press the object into the ball.
Remember to leave enough room on one side to get your object out.I also recommend that you have enough of the mix at the bottom of your object that you can press the molding ball against a flat surface to create a flat bottom.A flat bottom makes pouring things into the mold considerably easier.
Here are three things we have molded; the two rocks are opening side down, so as to expose as much of the mold to the air as possible, and the shell is open side up, to create as steady a flat bottom as possible.

Step 4: Let Molds Dry, Then Peel

Let the molds dry for at least 30 minutes, then peel them (carefully) off the object. Rinse them out, and they are ready to use. Here is what we made with ours.At the top is the original object, in the middle is a soap simulacra of the original object, and the bottom is the mold itself.
The other pictures are close ups of each molded object next to the original object.

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      Well, I dunno so much about calm. ;) But I'll cop to cool...until Igor becomes a teenager, at which point, Mom can't be cool anymore. Hee. :)

      Weapons grade uranium isn't available even in small amounts. The enrichment process is controlled by the government and so costly that buying even a small amount would be unfeasable.

      3 replies

      I, for one, am fairly happy that weapons grade uranium isn't available...but isn't non-processed uranium still something they sell in periodic chart type science kits? (I ask because I don't know. Igor isn't old enough for me to drill the periodic table yet...although I should probably get one just so I can get up to speed, as I've forgotten a lot of it.)

      I'm sure you could get non-enriched uranium. Uranium is fairly common in the environment and its decay is the source of radon gas. It also used to be used as a coloring in various products. Most health physics educators have a piece of orange Fiesta-ware in their educational props kit. It was a brand of plates that used uranium to make the plates a lovely orange color. There was also a fad in the early 1900's to drink irrdiated water and they used to sell uranium containers that would irradiate the water for you. Sometimes they show up on ebay. Sorry for the rant. The short answer would be "yes, I'm fairly sure you can get unenriched uranium".

      Hi. I would like to know if the coloured soaps aren't colouring hands while cleaning?

      1 reply

      No, there's not enough color in the soap for it to leach onto hands. :)

      Yay! I'd love to see pics when you're done!

      you mean radioactive? i will assume you do, and that you are not a terrorist: first of all, the only radioactive elements that most people can buy in relatively large amounts are thorium (price fluctuates often) and uranium (typically $5-10/g) unless you have special licenses and permits. more dangerous elements like polonium and radioactive isotopes of stable elements are available as needle sources and disk sources (from $30 to more than $100), which are used in a number of fields, from cloud chambers to carbon dating.
      here are 2 links:
      uranium and needle sources
      thorium, thorium compounds, uranium compounds

      what is the melting point of this stuff? I don't need an exact number, just tell me whether or not it's above 500 F.

      10 replies

      The mold putty can withstand 450' F and no more, I use this in a lot of my molding process because it's so easy to use. If you want to pour in molted lead or puter that is ok and you can cook with it like candy and cupcakes in the mold as well. Jax

      thanks well, i was actually wondering because i've been starting an element collection, but the cheapest forms of some elements were powders or flakes, like selenium. i was going to make molds for some of the elements with lower melting points, like maybe a lego figure or brick (seriously, what kid doesn't want a solid gold lego?)

      in that case I would use this mold compound and make a 2 part mold. you can see how this is done on my Elevinator Project instructiable. Pour casting wax in the mold and use that wax figure with the lost wax casting used in almost all jewlery making process, after the wax is gone out of the mold then you can pour your gold into that. If you need help with lost wax casting you can google it and find all the information you need. I use this when making rings and the such out of gold and silver. good luck, have fun and be safe with melted metal. GWjax

      thanks again, and nice instructable btw.

      No problem thats what we are here for to help others out in need, and thanks for the nice comment on my instructable. GWJax

      That is a great instructable. Thanks for all the advice on temps over here too. I'm so impressed by anyone willing to work with molten metal. I get nervous when I make molten chocolate cakes.

      Thank you so much for the comment on my instructable. and your welcome. I have been making jewlery for a long time so I don't think of melting gold and silver that hard any more even though I had aluminum exploid in my left eye that caused for a corona transplant 2 yrs ago. and of course I was not wearing my safty goggles at the time now I use a full face sheild for all metal melting. So those who have not melted metal before beware and use all safty cautions.. by the way I voted for you in the book too as I think this would be a great instructable for it. GWJax

      Question: If I used something like this molding material to make a cast of an object, and I sent the mold to you, would it be possible for you to make me a silver piece from it? Would you need to see the mold first before you could tell? If you think it's possible, I'd be thrilled to make a mold and send it to you for evaluation and a bid on making the actual piece. (The only jewelry I wear is artisan crafted, why own something that everyone else does? But this piece was made by a deceased relative and I'd love to be able to replicate it in silver, which is the metal I usually wear.)

      Everything is possible to reproduce, but a good clean mold would have to be made, as you know the Amazing putty does shrink a little bit. plus is it flat or does it have a lot of undercuts on it. If you can post a picture of it for me and weigh it in grams I can give you a better price for it but not on this tread, please PM me and I'll give you my e-mail address so you can send the pictures to me. after that I'll let you know how to make the mold I need. Jax

      the aluminum in the eye incident sounds painful. sorry...