Creating "Authentic" Kohl/Kajal Makeup from Scratch

Kohl or Kajal cosmetics provide that thick dramatic line around the eyes, that has always held a Middle-Eastern mystique or a Bollywood flair. Nearly anybody can wear it (and pull it off even),  not just the ladies, though men would probably not opt to wear it for looks but for practicality, or religious/tradition as it was believed to help in keeping eyes healthy by killing disease, repelling bugs, and helping block sunlight from being reflected into the eyes (though if Jack Sparrow uses it for vanity or practicality, we will never know.) Kohl is even put on children out of tradition or to protect their eyes from ailments as well as the "evil eye" curse.

Traditionally, kohl was made in marathon sessions of what was pretty much lots of soot collection where brass or copper plates/bowls were placed over oil lamps, mixed with a some ghee or oil and stowed away in a box. A little goes a long way with kohl, and one making would last a very long time if stored correctly. There were many variations of kohl-making but they all seem to  involve:

1) Something to burn and keep it burning
2) A flame
3) Some collective surface
4) Something added to make the kohl smooth and glide-able.

For a long time a big problem with kohl was it was made of crushed  galena aka lead sulfide which was causing plenty of lead poisoning. Besides that, who knows what else goes in to commercial kohl? This process of making it yourself makes it possible to monitor exactly what's going on to your face, because you have the choice in the matter from beginning to end.

Of course those with sensitive eyes or eye complications should probably get doctor approval when it comes to such homemade cosmetics.
((First instructable, yay here we go!))

Step 1 Somethin' to burn

The first component you need for your home made kohl is something to burn.

If you are looking to go super traditional, you can go ahead and pick up a brass oil lamp (a mud lamp even, for max traditionality),  and your choice of sesame oil, castor oil, canola oil, or any plant oil that likes to be on fire.

Then comes the wick, which is made of clean muslin/ cotton cloth. Naturally no synthetic or used fabrics, I'm sure somehow that laundry detergent and other contaminants come off of recycled cloth as it is burned. But hey, its all up to you. I made my wick from a cut of cotton that was about 5inx3in and that was a bit too thick when twisted up for my makeshift lamp (basically just the bottom of the above lamp with its glass shade taken off.) So you might do well with 4inx4in.

This cut of cloth is dipped into a paste or juice, left to dry in the shade, and then dipped and dried again multiple times. Some mediums I've heard of have been almond paste, sandalwood paste, milkwood pine juice, walnut paste, etc.

I do not know how well most of those work,  I just used a mint paste from crushing up fresh mint and adding water.

I've read that sandalwood paste is apparently made by rubbing the end of a sandalwood stick vigorously on a textured stone while adding water.

In any case, once the wick has been dipped and dried out multiple times (I'll leave that to your discretion) , its time to twist it up and put it in your lamp full of oil.


Or, if you're taking the quick and dirty route, pick up an almond or other plant/wooden/candle item that will catch fire and stay aflame for a while, instead of going through the wick making, oil picking and paste dipping.