Step 5: Adding Details

Once your base shape is defined, its time to start adding the layers on top which will define the piece. Working in layers like this can be much easier than trying to form an entire lump of clay into the finished product.

There are two antlers which jut from the temples of this helmet, so the first step is to mark where one will come out (Pic 2). Use your blueprints as guides here to make sure this falls on the same place as the original in-game helmet - a set of bow calipers will really help with the symmetry as well. (Pic 3)

Once you've determined where these parts will be mounted, cut out a couple of recesses with a dremel tool and seal the underlying foam with more acrylic paint (Pic 4). This may seem specific to this helmet, but many other helmets from video games have crests/horns/pointy bits sticking out of them. Looking ahead to the mold making step, this would make molds and castings very difficult. The more modular you can make things, the better.

I wanted the antlers to bolt in from the sides of the helmet, so I vacuum formed small recessed blocks to serve as "plugs" for their mounting points. These were glued into place with epoxy. (Pics 5, 6)

The base of the helmet is another part that needed some additional shaping. Looking back at our blueprints, you can see the side profile has a gradual curve to it, and the underside of the helmet has a beveled edge. Adding an MDF or (as shown here) sintra block to the base will create this lip, which can then be shaped with a dremel tool to the proper bevel. (Pic 7)

In Pic 8 you can see a series of numbers placed along each inch of the lower lip. One half of the helmet was shaped first, then these numbers were added. By measuring the height at each number then transferring these measurements over to the opposite side, you can make sure that both sides of this complex shape are identical. (Pics 8, 9)

Add a bit more filler to blend these new additions into the rest of the helmet, and continue on to step 6!
<p>how do i get ahold of you to see about makeing a special order?</p>
<p>The pink circular things, could someone explain what they are actually for? I'm just a bit confused as to how the process goes</p>
<p>they are like guidelines, because the mold is divided in &quot;two&quot; systems, the inner one with the silicone for the details and the outer one with fiberglass like a shell so it wont loose is shape =). so to keep the inner one on site it needs some ghuideline points, thats why the circular things are. think of it like the circular things on a LEGO piece. sorry my english is not very very good to explain that sort of things.</p>
<p>This is awesome. </p><p>Seeing somebody actually wear the helmet makes it look like the most annoying to actually use in combat, as soon as you get hit the thing would ring like a bell and also give you some nasty whiplash. </p>
You've run out of Helm of Yngol castings but I'll buy the molds if you still have them.
Do you sell copies of the helm?
The best instructable i have ever read. Very well done. Cant wait to try some of this.
<p>Could Apoxie Sculpt be substituted with paper clay?</p>
<p>This is so beautiful and you have more patience than I ever would omg</p>
<p>This is so amazing! I want to get into casting so badly. One day, when I can afford it, I'm going to make the jump.</p>
<p>This is not hyperbole: this is probably the most informative and well done Instructible I've read. So many modeling/casting problems answered! Thanks for posting!</p>
<p>How many helmets do you think you can get out of 1 gallon of urethane?</p>
<p>Would fiberglass work instead of the Plasti-Paste, or would it eat through the silicone?</p>
<p>Hmm this is clearly not your first rodeo. That is stellar work. Kudos.</p>
<p>That is one very cool helment.</p><p>Very nice Job-very good instructions---you got talent---congratulations</p>
<p>Any aspiration to get a roto-casting machine, or are you content with slush casting?</p><p>EXCELLENT work, I'm going to be starting on a Boba Fett helmet once I get my casting stuff. </p>
What primer did you use on step ten? and for the cuts on the helmet what did you use?
Thank you so much for the informational tutorials. I actually created an account just because I wanted to leave you a 'Thank You' note. I have many projects coming up and I hope to perfect my skills at this art form. I have many questions that I wish could be answered.
this is a great tutorial! im really looking into expanding my knowledge of costuming. Can you please explain to me the reason for casting/ molding? i usually stop at the master sculpt stage.. i'm still trying to understand why should things be molded. is it to cut down on weight? or to make things 1 piece? or for other reasons? i'm gonna try and pick at this tutorial so i can get an understanding of your thought process. great instructable!
awesome, the best one!
FUSH ROH DAH! very nice, mate!
this is an amazing build but 2 things are bothering me, firstly what are the pink caps for and secondly if the cast is of a solid object won't the final product be a block of resin aswell?????? <br>
The pink caps provide registration marks for the mold jacket (see step 11). The mold is actually two layers, the flexible silicone layer on the inside, and a rigid mold jacket that provides support to the silicone for casting. You could do a one piece mold, but you'd end up using a whole lot of silicone to make a mold thick enough to support itself. Silicone ain't cheap and stiffer mold making materials are (like Plaster of Paris, for example). This method gives you the best of both worlds. The ability to hold small details and tolerate small undercuts of silicone, without a high price tag. <br> <br> <br>As for your second question, it's not a fill cast, it's a slush cast. You pour in a little resin at a time and roll it around inside the mold to cover all surfaces while it sets. The repeat the process before the resin cures completely so each layer bonds to the one before. This way you can make a helmet that's thick enough to hold together and don't have to make an inner mold (since there's no details we need there) <br> <br>There's a great example video of this casting process here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=bAU3NGI-ZDo) where he uses it to make a calf armor piece for Halo Spartan armor.
Err. Iron Man armor, not Halo armor. <br>
Awesome printer.
This is absolutely beautiful! I'm working on a much simpler armor project for Halloween - just a chestplate and shoulder guard. I don't have the resources for casting, and was thinking of following your tutorial up to the final of the base model. Will those materials hold up ok if finished with a clear coat and all? Thank you for posting this, it's really amazing :)
Love it!! It looks awesome!
what brand and types of paints do you use during the weathering process?
Your detailing is amazing, I've seen alot of trophy antlers and these have alot of the fine details as the real ones great attention to detail.
Very cool, may have to add something like this to my list I thinks I want to build. <br>
Volpin is on Instructables... since when?! I love your builds; always taking some A+ progress photos as well!
r u.... a girl geek?
Nope! This was a project I made for my wife.
aahhh....is she a girl geek? lol jk, i love this....
Hey Volpin! <br /> <br />Just been reading some of your blog posts about your first Portal gun, fantastic work by the way. Just a question- I know you used wonderflex in the past and I was wondering what you used to harden/smooth it out. Apoxie sculpt seemed like it did the trick but what did you do to give it that glossy effect? Was it just the paint?
Is it possible to get a list of the materials needed? This would be my first project of this type, and I'm wondering what supplies I would need to attempt it.
Careful, that printer looks to be previously owned by Aperture Science...
It's alright, it doesn't look like it's the model with the neuro-toxin addon.
Awesome job,awesome i'ble,awesome helmet.The only thing that I don't really get from your i'ble is the toughness of the final product.Shoudn't it be reinforced with some sort of inner skelleton for cosplay?Because it would really be bad if this piece of work helmet will get damage from a small hit.
Urethane resin is remarkably resilient. You'd have to take a blow to the head with a baseball pat or similar impact to crack it.
That tough huh?Then I guess when summerbreak finally comes I will begin my Halo costume.Thx :)
I am curious about what kind of suspension system you put on the inside. Do you build a leather harness, or just glue in bits of foam?
Just foam padding. The helmet fits very close to the wearer's head, so there isn't much need for a lot of rigging
Very realistic, I think the hammer finish you've created is fine.
Thanks - admittedly its a bit too regular, but I have another of these (male version) in the works and I'm hoping to improve on the technique with that project.
So, where can I find some good polystyrene foam?
Home Depot or LOWES is your best bet
you are awesome!! <br>i better place orders to you than getting myself a truckload of disaster!! <br>you have the golden hand for such things!
Seriously !... awesome work although the hammered texture looks more like golf ball divots, the paint job overall and texturing of the horns is nothing less than superb ! <br>Maybe try bumping the next one with the round side of a ball peen hammer, the foam should crush and clay will dent if its still malleable and make an authentic hammering texture for you.
I tried making a mold with standard runny silicone and runny resin... the result? Awful. I need to get some of these products but they're not readily available in Denmark.

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More by volpin:Building a Small Format Vacuumformer from an Old Toaster Oven Creating Costume Armor with Wonderflex Creating Helmets and Armor from Videogames for Fun and Profit! 
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