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Creating Printed Circuit Boards with a INKJET Printer

Step 2Designing Your PCB Files

Designing Your PCB Files
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  • txtexmp.jpg
  • SnapShot1.jpg
  • 100_1373.JPG
For my project, I used Eagle Cad for my schematic and PCB design.  Eagle Cad has a freeware version for hobby users that has board size limitations. I never making anything over 4" x 3" inches so it fit my needs. There is other PCB design software that you can download by searching Google.

Once your design is finished you need to print it out to size. Since this is the bottom side of the PCB, make sure you do a mirror print.

If you are using Eagle Cad, I have attached a zip file containing the CAM print job that will print your files out for you. It will make two .PS files one for the solder side, one for the component side and will also make your solder side mirrored. Once you have those files, you double click on them and it will make two PDF files that can be printed.

TIP for APPLY TEXT and Graphics
If you want to include any text on the copper side or a silhouette of an image the best way I have found is to open the .PS file in a graphics program like Adobe Photoshop. Keep the resolution of 300 dpi. You can then added textual or graphic elements to the design and they will come out crisp. You won't need to reverse the text either since the copper traces, etc. are already mirrored.


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8 comments
Dec 8, 2010. 2:29 PMcoleyy says:
how do you make the zip file make the pdfs???????????????????????????
Jan 3, 2011. 4:58 PMbleh.bleh says:
you have to move it or copy it to your desktop
Dec 9, 2010. 5:16 PMcoleyy says:
i mean aftr i get the ps files, i double clicked them and it asked me what program to open it with. i tried every one but none of them worked
Jan 3, 2011. 4:13 PMThe Incredible IT Maker says:
i think you right click and click extract
Nov 5, 2009. 10:57 AMZybeon says:
I don't use the copper etchant from R-shack anymore. You can make your own etchant much cheaper using two items. Using one part muriatic acid and two parts peroxide. There is an instructable on how to make it in here somewhere. It takes a bit to maintain the solution but with a little care and practically no money, it can be used almost indefinitely.
Oct 30, 2009. 10:15 PMeli2k says:
Thank you for writing up the tutorial! I'm unfamiliar with PCB boards in general, but on the third image in step 2, it looks like most of the board is copper (like the area where you placed the graphics in)? I thought the traces would only be connected to the holes where you place components in. It looks like it would be easy for solder to end up on there and cause short-circuits? Unless I have it all backwards somewhere.
Nov 5, 2009. 6:37 AMjlew says:
You would want to connect your ground plane to the ground of the circuit.  Otherwise it is floating isolated from the circuit.  Very nice looking boards!
Oct 31, 2009. 10:01 PMeli2k says:
Ah, I see. Thanks for the explanation, that makes sense because on kits and PCB boards with the holes already in them, the solder stays inside the metal pad and making a solder bridge between two of them is pretty hard without a wire.

Can you reuse the chemical, ie store it between uses, or you have to use it during that day?
Nov 1, 2009. 3:09 PMmad_mat says:
Awesome 'ible ArduinoFun, nice work.
Just to clarify for eli2k; its best to store used ectchant separately, dont put it back in the bottle with your new stuff.
And just adding a bit more new etchant to used etchant doesn't really make it work faster, it just makes more used etchant ;-)

Cheers

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