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Step 4Adding the muzzle and jaw
After you have your snug-fitting helmet base, you can start building the base for the features of your critter.
Add the rough shapes for the muzzle using plastic canvas. Reinforce as necessary. Again, the key is to keep things strong and sturdy! Keep the proportions on the small side for now because you'll be adding foam over top later and you don't want it to make the mask look too big. This is also the time to consider where you want your sight to be in the mask. If you're wanting to see out the eyes, make sure you leave space in the structure to make hidden spots of mesh to see through. In the case of Sammael, my visibility was primarily through his nose.
After you get the structure for the muzzle done, it's time to add the jaw. You have two options. You can make the jaw stationary and build as you did for the muzzle (making sure you can still fit the mask over your head!), or make a hinged jaw that will move with your own jaw to some degree.
To build a moveable jaw, first build it out of plastic canvas in proportion to the rest of the base. Attach it with brass fasteners where the hinge in your own jaw sits and line it up with the mask's muzzle. Try the mask on and make sure that you can fit it comfortably over your head.
Glue a piece of foam where your jaw sits so act as a cushion and contact point. Then attach elastics forward of the hinge point (but where they'll be reasonably well hidden in the finished mask) on either side. They should by tight enough to keep the jaw closed, but loose enough that when you are wearing the mask and open your mouth the pressure from your jaw will force the mask's jaw open. To attach the elastics, I used more brass fasteners - the elastics just looped over the head of the fastener on the inside of the jaw.
Add the rough shapes for the muzzle using plastic canvas. Reinforce as necessary. Again, the key is to keep things strong and sturdy! Keep the proportions on the small side for now because you'll be adding foam over top later and you don't want it to make the mask look too big. This is also the time to consider where you want your sight to be in the mask. If you're wanting to see out the eyes, make sure you leave space in the structure to make hidden spots of mesh to see through. In the case of Sammael, my visibility was primarily through his nose.
After you get the structure for the muzzle done, it's time to add the jaw. You have two options. You can make the jaw stationary and build as you did for the muzzle (making sure you can still fit the mask over your head!), or make a hinged jaw that will move with your own jaw to some degree.
To build a moveable jaw, first build it out of plastic canvas in proportion to the rest of the base. Attach it with brass fasteners where the hinge in your own jaw sits and line it up with the mask's muzzle. Try the mask on and make sure that you can fit it comfortably over your head.
Glue a piece of foam where your jaw sits so act as a cushion and contact point. Then attach elastics forward of the hinge point (but where they'll be reasonably well hidden in the finished mask) on either side. They should by tight enough to keep the jaw closed, but loose enough that when you are wearing the mask and open your mouth the pressure from your jaw will force the mask's jaw open. To attach the elastics, I used more brass fasteners - the elastics just looped over the head of the fastener on the inside of the jaw.
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