Getting grass to grow is hard sometimes but is necessary to keep your dirt in place so it doesn't wash away. With this porous paver you not only reduce the amount of grass you need to grow but drastically reduce the amount of water needed to keep that grass growing. On top of this, the pavers hold the dirt together reducing erosion even when the grass has not grown in. The pavers also allow for a large amount of weight to move over them, once installed, without the ground being as damaged as it would normally.
While my design is inspired by something similar, some very important changes have been made which focus on the molding process and make this unique. The parts have been made smaller. The reduction in overall height and size of the core blocks makes for less material used, and less digging when installing the paver. Likewise, the connectors are smaller, further reducing the size. The angles on the blocks and the connectors are not as steep and more uniform, making the end product easier to remove from the mold. The tamps on the end of the paver have been created with a negative angle - when upright - in order to facilitate precise spacing when installing the pavers to give a uniform look once the grass grows in. Most importantly, no wire mesh is needed to hold the cast piece together because of the material used to make the end product. This illustrates the true benefit of building your own model and making the mold by hand.
Step 1: Materials list
1 Rolling cart
1 Piece of plywood to go on the rolling cart as a work surface.
Wax paper to cover the plywood work area
1 Roll 2 inch blue painters tape
2 Sheets of two inch 4' X 8' extruded polystyrene insulation
1 Tube of foam board adhesive (with a caulk gun to apply it)
1 Gallon of isopropyl alcohol (you'll need quite a bit as it is used for a lot of things)
1 Bottle of Joy lemon scented dish washing liquid
1 Utility knife
Mixing sticks - get about 30. Paint mixing sticks from Lowes or Home Depot work well.
1 Can of Ease Release 200 from Smooth-On
2 Gallon kits of FlexFoam-iT V by Smooth-On
2 Gallon kits of Rebound 25 made by Smooth-On
1 Bottle silicone pigment (whichever color you prefer)
1 Carton of glass microspheres from Fiber Glast
2 Gallon kits of Smooth Cast 327 made by Smooth-On
1 Bottle Smooth-On silicone thinner
1 Bottle Thi-Vex silicone thickener
1 Cordless drill
1 Kreg pocket hole jig with Kreg pocket hole screws
1 Set of fostner drill bits
1 carpenter's saw with a long blade (as long a possible)
1 Japanese saw with a flexible blade
1 Glue gun with 20 glue sticks
2 2X8 10' long pine boards
5 small boxes of molding clay (kleen-klay is a good brand name to use)
Graduated measuring cups ranging in size from a few ounces to 5 quarts (I recommend buying a box or two with an assortment inside of 30 or so cups)
30 1.5" and 2" bristle paint brushes (cheap ones will work)
1 Table saw (optional - this can be done by hand)
1 Band saw (optional - this can be done by hand)
1 Miter box (you'll need this if you are not using a table or band saw)
1 Wood chisel
1 3-in-1 painters tools
1 Big bottle of steel BBs
Latex/Nitrile gloves (many many)
Eye protection - goggles/glasses
Filtration mask if you plan on using the glass beads - these things will wreck your lungs if you breathe enough. Check the rating on the mask to be sure it will work for the size of the glass beads you order.
It is imperative to use gloves, eye, and respiration protection when following this instructable. The vast majority of the things used here have chemicals in them and you need to avoid contact with your skin, eyes and lungs for your own protection. If you are not skilled in the use of a table saw or band saw, stick to cutting by hand. These tools can cause serious bodily harm or death.