Step 1: Prepare Your Materials.
The box entire box is made from 1/2" stock, except the bottom, which is 1/4". The template measures 5"x15", so that's how big I decided to make the board/top. The finished dimensions of the box are 16"L, 5"W, 2.5"H.
Cut your sides and ends 1/8" long. Cut your bottom 4-3/8"x 15-3/8". Determine which side of the wood you want on the outside. Sand the inside faces and both sides of the bottom.
Step 2: Cut Groove for Bottom of Box
Set your depth at 1/4". Set your fence at 1/4", and cut your grooves at the bottom of your inside faces. Clean up any rough edges with sandpaper.
You'll want to use a sacrificial push block to avoid tear-out on the ends.
Step 3: Cut Your Finger Joints
On the ends, your bottom-most cuts should be only 5/16" deep. This way you won't need to make little pegs to fill the holes that would be left by the slots cut in your sides. Set your depth at 9/16" for the remaining cuts.
Test fit your pieces. Everything should fit together well, with room for the bottom to float.
Step 4: Glue It Up.
Assemble the box. Drop the top in place to keep it square, and use a strap clamp to pull it all together. You can buy finger joint cauls to accommodate the protruding joint ends, or use some scraps of 1/4" stock on each side of the corners, outside of the joints.
Allow to dry overnight.
Step 5: Make the Board.
You don't need a self centering bit or a drill press, but the template is made for the bit and a drill press makes consistent depths a breeze. Your holes will wander all over the place if you don't use a self centering bit. Even with one it demands precision.
Depending on the hardness of your top stock and the length of your bit you may want to consider clamping a thin piece of wood or veneer/laminate between your top and the template to ensure cleaner holes.
You need to round the bottom rear side of the board so it will swing on the hinge pins: Set up your router table with a 1/4" round-over bit. Use several passes, raising the bit each time, until you reach the full depth of cut.
Step 6: Sanding.
If you have any gaps between your finger joints, fill with wood putty (or a mixture of a little wood glue with some sanding dust) and allow to dry for at least a few hours.
Use 160 grit, then 220 to get a fine, smooth surface. I like to use a random orbit sander for the big work, and work my way down to hand sanding for the finer stuff.
Sand a little depression in the middle of the top of the front side, under the lid.
Step 7: Final Assembly.
Push a piece of 1/8" brass rod into each hole until it stops with minimal effort. If you rounded the bottom edge of the lid and set your hinge pins properly, the lid should now swing easily and hold itself open standing upright. Check the top for smooth operation and sand as necessary.
Mark the rod 1/4 longer than the insertion depth, remove, and cut to length. Re-insert the new hinge pin, and use a mallet and a punch to drive the pin in until it is just below the surface of the end of the box. Repeat for other end.
Finish the box with two coats of Danish Oil finish. Enjoy your awesome new cribbage board!