Introduction: Crochet *Color Changing* Toy Chameleon Pattern

I think you would agree with me with the fact that it's pretty awesome that the can change color to the environment that they are in. This Chameleon that you are about to make isn't going to change through the pigmented skin cells (like a real one) but, as you will discover, through the mouth!

Do you know anyone who is a big fan of lizards? This will surely make anyone, young or old, smile :) It is quite an 'out of the box' gift...if you were looking for something that was homemade and that little bit different.

I would suggest that you practice crocheting before you tackle this project.

When you are finished, it will be approximately 37cm (14.1/2in) long.

Step 1: Things You Will Need

2 different color Yarns at 100g (343yds) each (A and B). You can use any color combination of yarn to make your Chameleon blend in or stand out! And an oddment of Black Yarn (C)

2.5mm Hook and a 3mm Hook

Toy Stuffing

Darning Needle

30 x 30cm (12 x 12in) of Wadding

Tension:

22 sts and 24 rows to 10com (4in) over DC (double crochet) using a 3mm hook.

Special Stitch: Ridged Stitch

With the right side of the work facing, insert the hook through to the back of the work, around the post of the previous ridged st and back through to the front, catch the yarn and draw the loop up to the level of the row being worked, catch the yarn again and draw through both lops on the hook to complete the ridged stitch.

You are now ready to start - Happy Crocheting!

Step 2: Front - Lower Jaw. Make1 in a and 1 in B

With the 3mm hook, chain 16.

Row 1: dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into the next 13 ch, 2 dc in end ch. 1 dc down reverse side of each chain to the end, turn. (30 sts)

Row 2: (inc) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 14 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 14 dc, turn. (32 sts)

Row 3: (inc) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 15 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 15 dc, turn. (34 sts)

Row 4: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 16 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 16 dc, turn. (36 sts)

Row 5: (ice) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 17 dc, (dc2inc) twice. 17 dc, turn. (38 sts)

Row 6 (inc) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 18 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 18 dc, turn (40 sts)

Row 7: (inc) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 19 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 19 dc, turn. (42 sts)

Row 8: (inc) 1 ch, doesn't count as a st) 20 dc (dc2inc) twice, 20 dc, turn. (44 sts)

Rows 9-11: Work 1 dc in each dc, turn. Do not turn at the end of row 11!

Step 3: Body and Shaping the Neck

Body - Row 1: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) work 1 dc into each of the sts at the end of the 11 rows across. (22 sts)

Neck - Row 1: (RS) (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 1 dc, dc2dec, 3 dc, dc2dec, (2 dc, dc2dec) twice, 3 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (17 sts)

Rows 2 - 4: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Step 4: Shaping the Front

(following on from the neck)

Row 5: (inc) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 1 dc, dc2inc, 13 dc dc2inc, 1 dc turn. (19 sts)

Row 6: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 7: (inc) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc, dc2inc, 15 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn. (21 sts)

Row 8 - 25: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 26: (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc, dc2dec, 15 dc dc2dec, 1 dc, turn (19 sts)

Row 27: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 28: (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 1 dc, dc2dec, 13 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (17 sts)

Row 29: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 30: (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc, dc2dec, 11 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (15 sts)

Row 31: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 32: (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc, dc2dec, 9 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (13 sts)

Row 33: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st) 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 34: (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc dc2dec, 7 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (11 sts)

Row 35: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 36: (dec) 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc, dc2dec, 5 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (9 sts)

Row 37: 1 ch (doesn't count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn. Fasten off.

Step 5: Back. Make 1 in a and 1 in B

Starting at the centre of the top lip, with 3mm hook, wind yarn around a finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert the hook, catch the yarn and draw back through the ring.

Row 1 (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 5 dc into ring, turn (5 sts).

Row 2 (RS) (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st). (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc, (dc2inc) twice, turn. Pull on short end of yarn to close ring (9sts)

Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), (1 dc, dc2inc) 4 times, 1 dc, turn (13 sts)

Row 4 - 5: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc in each dc, turn

Row 6: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in nect 5 dc, work 1 ridged st around the post of the nect dc 2 rows down and bring the loop up to the level of the working row, 1 dc, work 1 ridged st around the post of the next dc 2 rows down and bring the loop up to the level of the working row, 1 dc into next 5 dc, turn

Row 7 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, dc2inc, 4dc, dc3inc, 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn (17sts)

Row 8: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 6 dc, 1 ridged st, 3 dc, 1 ridged st, 6 dc, turn

Row 9: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc in each dc, turn

Row 10: As row 8

Row 11: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc in each dc, turn

Step 6: Shape Casque

Row 12: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in next 6 dc, 1 ridged st, 1 dc, work 1 ridged st around the post of the next dc two rows down, 1 dc, 1 ridged st, 6 dc, turn

Row 13 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, dc2inc, 5 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, 5dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn (21 sts)

Row 14: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in next 7 dc, (1 ridged st, 2 dc) 3 times, 5 dc, turn.

Row 15: (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc, dc2inc, 7 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, 7 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn. (29 sts)

Row 16: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, in next 8 dc, 1 ridged st, (3 dc, 1 ridged st) twice, 8 dc, turn.

Row 17: (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc, dc2inc, 9 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, 9 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn. (29 sts)

Row 18: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 14 dc, 1 ridged st, 14 dc, turn.

Row 19: (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 13 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, 13 dc, turn. (31 sts)

Row: 20: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 15 dc, 1 ridged st, 15 dc, turn.

Row 21: (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 14 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, 14 dc, turn. (33 sts)

Row 22: 1 ch (does not count as a st) 16 dc, 1 ridged st, 16 dc, turn.

Row 23: (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 15 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc, dc2inc, 15 dc turn. (35 sts)

Row 24: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 11 dc, miss the next 13 dc, 11 dc, turn. (22 sts)

Step 7: Shape Neck

Row 25: (dec) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, dc2dec, 3 dc, dc2dec, (2 dc, dc2dec) twice, 3 dc, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (17 sts)

Row 26 - 27: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in each st, turn,

Row 28: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 8 dc, work 1 ridged st around the post of the next dc two rows down and bring the loop up to the level of the working row, 8 dc, turn.

Step 8: Shape Back

Row 29 (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, dc2inc, (2 dc, dc2inc) twice, 1 dc, (dc2inc, 2 dc) twice, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn. (23 sts)

Row 30: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 11 dc, 1 ridged st, 11 dc, turn.

Row 31: (inc) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, (dc2inc, 3 dc) 5 times, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn. (29 sts)

Row 32: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 14 dc, 1 ridged st, 14 dc, turn.

Row 33: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, dc2inc, (4 dc, dc2inc) twice, 5 dc, (dc2inc, 4 dc) twice, dc2inc, 1 dc, turn. (35 sts)

Row 34: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 17 dc, 1 ridged st, 17 dc, turn.

Row 35: 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Rows 36 - 45: Repeat last 2 rows 5 times.

Row 46: As row 34.

Row 47: (dec) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, dc2dec, ( 4 dc, dc2dec) twice, 5 dc, (dc2dec, 4 dc) twice, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (29 sts)

Row 48: As row 32.

Row 49: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 50 - 53: Repeat the last 2 rows twice.

Row 54: As row 32.

Row 55: (dec) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc, (dc2dec, 3 dc) 5 times, dc2dec, 1 dc, turn. (23 sts)

Row 56: As row 30

Row 57: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 58 - 61: Repeat the last 2 rows twice.

Step 9: Tail

The Following is worked in rounds.

Round 62: (dec) 1 ch (does not count as a st), 11 dc, 1 ridged st, 11 dc, working into the last row of the front piece with right side facing, 1 dc, in the first dc to join one side, (dc2dec, 1 dc) twice, dc2dec. (29 sts)

Round 63: (dec) 1 dc into the first dc of the back to join the other side, dc2dec, (2 dc, dc2dec) twice, 1 dc, (dc2dec, 2 dc) 3 times, (dc2dec) twice, 1 dc. (21 sts)

Round 64: 1 dc in the next 8 dc, 1 ridged st, 1 dc in the next 12 dc.

Round 65: 1 dc in each dc.

Round 66 - 69: Repeat last 2 rounds twice.

Round 70: As round 64.

Round 71: (dec) 1 dc, (dc2dec, 2 dc) twice, 3 dc. (17 sts)

Round 72: 1 dc in the next 6 dc, 1 ridged st, 1 dc in the next 10 dc.

Round 73: 1 dc in each dc.

Round 74 - 77: Repeat last 2 rounds, twice.

Round 78: As round 72.

Round 79: (dec) (1 dc, dc2dec) 4 times, 5 dc. (13 sts)

Round 80: 1 dc in the next 4 dc, 1 ridged st, 1 dc in the next 8 dc.

Round 81: 1 dc in each dc.

Round 82 - 85: Repeat last 2 rounds, twice.

Round 86: As round 80.

Round 87: (dec) (dc2dec) twice, 4 dc. (9 sts)

Round 88: 1 dc in the next 2 dc, 1 ridged st, 1 dc in the next 6 dc.

Round 89: 1 dc in each st.

Round 90 - 95: Repeat last 2 rounds, 3 more times.

Round 96 - 130: 1 dc in each dc.

Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn.

Step 10: Eyeballs - Make 4

You will need the 2.5mm hook and black colored yarn (C).

Wind yarn around a finger a couple of times to from a ring, insert the hook, catch the yarn and draw back through the ring.

Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st) Work 6 dc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: (inc) (dc2inc) 6 times. Pull on the short end of the yarn to close the ring. (12 sts)

Round 3: (inc) (dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: 1 dc in each dc. Slip Stitch to the next st and fasten off.

Step 11: Eye Sockets. Make 2 in a and 2 in B

With the 3mm hook, make 6 ch and join with a Slip Stitch to the first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 9 dc into the ring. (9 sts)

Round 2: (inc) (dc2inc) 9 times. (18 sts)

Round 3 - 5: 1 dc in each dc.

Slip Stitch to the next st and fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn.

Step 12: Legs. Make 4 in a and 4 in B

With the 2.5mm hook, wind yarn around a finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert the hook, catch the yarn and draw back through the ring. (You will be starting at the elbow)

Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: (inc) (dc2inc, 1 dc) 3 times. Pull on the short end of the yarn to close the ring. (9 sts)

Round 3: (inc) (dc2inc 2 dc) 3 times. (12 sts)

Round 4: (inc) (dc2inc 3 dc) 3 times. (15 sts)

Round 5: (inc) (dc2inc 2 dc) 5 times.(20 sts)

Step 13: Cont. Divide for the Upper and Lower Leg

Round 6: 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn, 1 dc in the opposite 5 dc. (you will continue on these 10 sts for the lower part of the leg)

Round 7 - 25: 1 dc in each of the 10 dc

Round 26: (inc) (dc2inc, 4 dc) twice. ( 12 sts)

Round 27: (inc) (dc2inc, 2 dc) 4 times. (16 sts)

Step 14: Cont. Divide for the Foot and Foot

Divide for the foot:

Round 28: 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn and work 1 dc into the opposite 4 dc. (8 sts)

Foot:

Round 1 - 4: 1 dc in each dc.

Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn.

Rejoin your yarn to the remaining 8 sts at the foot.

Round 1 - 5: 1 dc in each dc.

Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn.

Stuff the the leg and foot (you may need to use the end of a thick crochet hook/knitting needle to push the stuffing down) Keeping them soft so they are flexible enough to be tucked back easily into the Chameleon for when it changes color.

Step 15: Cont. Upper Leg

Rejoin the yarn to the remaining 10 sts of round 5 at the elbow.

Round 1 - 11: 1 dc in each dc.

Fasten off and leave a length of yarn.

Stuff the Upper Leg.

Step 16: The Making Up

Stuff the tail,

pushing it in through the narrow end with the crochet hook and filling it from the the wider end as well. Thread the length of yarn left after fastening off the tail onto a blunt-ended darning needle and thread through the last round of stitches, draw up to gather and stitch to secure. Curl the tail under at the end, stitching it down as you roll it for around the first 10in (25cm). Repeat for the other coloured piece.

Join the Two Coloured Body Pieces

Cut the wadding to the shapes of the front and the back pieces excluding the tail and the casque. They don't have to be exact and a perfect fit. Lay out the back and front in A with wrong side facing up. Place the wadding on the top and then lay the wrong side of the piece in B over the wadding. Pin in place, matching the rows. Using 3mm hook and A, rejoin the yarn to the centre of the top lip. With the body in yarn A facing you, work 1 dc into the stitches at the end of each row of both pieces at the same time to join. Insert the hook first into the body worked in A and then into the body worked in B and work down the 61 stitches of one side of the back to the tail, 37 sts down the front, work 1 dc into each of the 44 stitches of the lower jaw and then up the 37 stitches of the other side of the front and the 61 stitches of the other side of the back. Sl st into the first dc and fasten off. Weave in the ends (240sts)

Cut triangular-shaped pieces of wadding to fit inside each casque. Put a couple of folded pieces of wadding together for each to help them stand and sew each side of the opening together in matching yarn to close.

Join Front to Back

Fold the body over, with yarn A facing out and B on the inside. Rejoin yarn A to the tail end and, with front facing, work 1 dc into each of the next 39 dc of both the front and the back a the same time to join, inserting the hook under both loops of each stitch and finishing at the mouth. Continue working 1 dc into each of the next 44 dc of the top lip only and then join the other side of the body, working 1 dc into each of the next 39 dc of both the front and back at the same time to join as before. Fasten off. Rejoin yarn A to the remaining stitches on the lower lip and, with the inside if the mouth facing you, work 1 dc into each of the next 40 stitches. Change to 2.5mm hook and work 1 dc into each of the 44 dc around the top lip and then into the 40 dc around the lower lip. Sl st ti the first dc, fasten off and weave in the ends.

Eyes

Push the eyeballs into each eye socket. With the length of yarn left after fastening off the eye socket, stitch the lower edges together. Stuff the eyes and sew in place to the head, stitching all around the lower edges to attach them securely.

Legs

With the lengths of yarn left after fastening off at the feet, run a gathering stitch through the last rounds at the openings, draw up to close and work a few stitches through to secure. Sew the legs in place, just above the line of double crochet that joins the front and back of the body, stitching all around the open end.

Step 17: Changing Color!

Now this is where it gets interesting!!

Reach into the mouth and grasp hold of the tail inside.

Carefully fold back the head, bringing the tail to the outside. Tuck in the legs that are going back into the body as it is turned right side out.

Fold the mouth down and pull into shape.

And there you go, what an amazing piece of work you have just made!

Comments

author
LolAshley (author)2014-12-22

Instructions seem a bit complicated, but once I get better at Crocheting I think this will be simpler! So excited to tackle this! :)

author
travelandeat (author)LolAshley2014-12-22

When you break the pattern down, its really not that complicated. I would love to see a photo of your finished Chameleon!

author
SilentHunter4 (author)2014-12-20

because of the weather here,i can't feed a real lizard,but i made an electronic lizard

author

That's pretty cool, you should try making this one :)

author
SilentHunter4 (author)2014-12-20

http://memories.nokia.com/r/images/72b5a839-971f-4afb-a85a-0a4e9e9a5b1f

author
JM1999 (author)SilentHunter42014-12-20

That is one cool lizard!

author
SilentHunter4 (author)2014-12-20

i'm a lizard fan

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