Introduction: Crocheted Square Hat - Instructable Robot, Sponge Bob & WALL-E
One of the projects that has been swimming around in my head was this "square" style hat, also called a jester hat. I couldn't resist entering the Instructable Robot Contest so this Instructable is a product of the two.
While I was creating the robot hat, my children kept thinking of other characters that were yellow, including Sponge Bob, Minions, and honey bees, and just like all children, my oldest thought outside the box and said we could turn one of these square hats into Wall-E.
Whew. Now instead of one hat to make, I ended up making three. The bee & the minion are going to have to wait. They're not really square anyway right?
As I write this Instructable, it's topping 100-degrees in the part of California where I live, and my kids still wanted to wear the hats you see.
I think it's safe to say that my kids have gotten so used to me making Instructables and using them as models that they've grown to appreciate the little robot that brings me joy to share things to make with them.
I consider this pattern an easy pattern, and if you need crochet help, search this site or you can use one of the Instructables from this Collection: How to Crochet on Instructables.
It took me about two hours to crochet each cap/beanie. Depending on the style of the hat, the embellishments took me anywhere from two (2) hours (Instructables Robot), four (4) hours (Sponge Bob) or six (6) hours (Wall-E) to make and sew on, but I was taking photos in that time too.
As with all of my free patterns, please feel free to make and sell anything you make from these patterns. Do not use my photos and do not call this pattern your own. In all cases, please give me credit for the pattern and better yet, link to this Instructable.
A shout out to the basis of the square crocheted hat: Rachel's Hat by Leslie Rudden.
Step 1: Materials & Abbreviations
- size G hook for embellishments (or size required for gauge, see notes below)
- size H hook for hat (or size required for gauge)
- yellow acrylic yarn (for cuff & body of hat) - one skein should make at least two hats
- yarn needle & scissors
-Instructable Robot Hat-
- red acrylic yarn (for eyes & ear knobs)
- black acrylic yarn (for antennea, eyebrow & mouth)
-Sponge Bob Hat-
- white, blue, black, red and pink felt
- black & red Lion Brand Bonbons Yarn or other embroidery thread
- embroidery needle
- TWO (2), two-inch (2") diameter clear plastic lids to containers
- four (4) small (1/4-inch size) binder clips
- mustard color, dark brown & black felt
- white & black Lion Brand Bonbons Yarn and brown embroidery thread
- embroidery needle
BLO = back loop only
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd = round
hdc = half-double crochet
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
slst = slip stitch
Step 2: Gauge
13 sts and 10 rows = 4-1/4 inches square
Please check your gauge for garments and hats. There's no need to do all that work to find out it doesn't fit.
I am a loose-stitch crocheter. I know this because of something called gauge. Change the hook to fit the gauge.
How to crochet the gauge - First try the size H hook
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook and in each stitch across (13-sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across
Row 3 through 10: Repeat round 2.
If the sample square does not fit CLOSELY to 4-1/4 inches by 4-1/4 inches, then you need to change your hook size. If the sample square is smaller, then increase the hook size to an "I" size hook. If the sample square size is larger, then decrease the hook size to a "G" size hook.
When you get your gauge correct move onto the next step, making the cuff.
Whichever hat you choose to do embellishments for, I use a G-size hook to crochet many of the embellishments. Depending on your gauge will depend on the hook size for the embellishments. Use the NEXT SIZE down from the hook you determined to use from the gauge swatch above.
Step 3: Crochet the Cuff
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each st across. (7 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. In BLO (back loops only throughout cuff portion only,) sc in first st and in each st across.
Row 3 - 40: Repeat row 2.
Unstretched, I measured about 20-inches for the cuff after row 40.
Fold the cuff in half and match the end pieces together.
Sl st in each stitch across in BLO of row 40 and in bottom loop of row 1.
Do not finish off.
See the next step for the body of the hat.
Step 4: Crochet the Body of the Hat
Rnd 1: Evenly place 33 hdc on each side of hat so that the total amount of stitches equal 66. Sl st to top of first hdc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across and join with a slip stitch to the first hdc. (66 sts)
Rnd 3 - 16: Repeat round 2. Do not finish off.
Close the top of the hat by slip stitching in each of the two halves of stitches, through the full thickness, to the end of the row.
Finish off and sew in any loose ends.
You can optionally and evenly place 66 hdc stitches on the bottom of the hat/loose end of the cuff. I personally like the look of the zig-zag ends, but I included a photo of a cuff that has been finished off with the hdc round.
Step 5: Instructable Robot Embellishments
All the embellishments for the Instructable Robot Hat were crocheted and sewn onto the hat with a yarn needle.
Use a smaller hook size (for me that's a size G.)
I used my Instructable Robot shirt to copy the facial components. The left eye is smaller than the right eye as you look at the shirt, but I know on many of the robot-icons this could be interchangeable.
With red, ch 12, be careful to not twist the chain, sl st in first st and finish off with a long end for sewing.
With red, ch 15, be careful to not twist the chain, sl st in the first st and finish off with a long end for sewing.
With black, ch 20. Fasten off. Leave a long end (about 12-inches or so) for sewing.
With black, ch 22. Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing.
Antennae (make 2):
With black, ch 15, turn; hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st in top of each st to end. Finish off. Leave a long end for sewing.
Side Knobs for Antennae (make 2):
With red, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to form a ring.
Ch 3, 11 dc in ring, sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing. Turn the knob onto your finger to shape before sewing onto side of hat.
Use a photo of the robot as a guide.
Sew eyebrow first into row 14 of body.
Sew the larger eye just below eyebrow (using photo of robot as a guide.)
Sew the smaller eye beginning at row 13 or just between row 13 and the top of 12.
Sew the antennae at the edges of hat on row 9 of the body, BEFORE sewing the knobs. Sew both sides. While sewing the antennae, I weaved the yarn end through the antennae and back down again, to stiffen the antennae to stick out straighter.
Push the antennae through the hole of the knob so that the antennae is centered on the knob. Sew the knob around the antennae. Sew both sides.
Sew the mouth between rounds 4 and 5.
Sew in all loose ends.
Step 6: Sponge Bob Hat Embellishments
The Sponge Bob hat used a combo of a crocheted nose, felt eyes and mouth that were hand-sewn onto the hat using bonbon yarn and various types of stitches.
I used my sons stuffed Sponge Bob toy as the example to follow the details. Please use an example of the Sponge Bob to help you with the details when performing the embroidery. I had the stuffed toy with me at all times to refer to while working on the hat.
For any help with embroidery details, check out this Instructable: Embroidery 101.
Note that in several of the photos, I show the INSIDE of the hat.
Crochet Nose Pattern
Use smaller hook size from gauge (in my case it was a G.)
Rnd 1: 6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in top of first hdc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st across (6 hdc sts)
Rnds 3 - 4: Repeat rnd 2.
Finish off, leaving a long end for sewing.
Note that the nose gets sewn on LAST.
Cut Felt Pieces
In all cases, I tried to trace any pieces on the backside of the felt (I looked for the sticker.)
The eyes use white, black and blue felt. Make two.
I used the end of a baby food jar to trace the white part of the eyes, a chapstick end for the black part (pupil) of the eyes, and used a circle template to trace the blue part (iris) of the eyes.
For mouth, tongue & teeth, it uses red, pink and white felt.
I used the now-cut eyes as a basis to determine how wide to make the mouth. I hand drew the mouth based off of the look on the Sponge Bob stuffed toy we had. I folded the red felt in half and cut the mouth around the half to make both sides look even.
I hand-drew the tongue on the pink felt, using the bottom of the mouth as a guide for the bottom of the tongue.
I also hand-drew the teeth on the white felt, trying to cut them as equal as possible.
Embroider the Eyes and Mouth
I used the black embroidery thread to sew all the eye pieces and mouth pieces together.
I used a back and forth stitch, similar to a back stitch to sew the black pupil to the blue iris.
I then sewed the blue iris to the white part of the eye.
The hard part was making both eyes and all the pieces as even or equal-looking as possible. (I came pretty close!)
I started with the teeth on the mouth and continued to use the black embroidery thread to sew the teeth to the mouth.
Next I sewed the tongue onto the mouth, and I skipped the bottom of the tongue because I knew I was going to sew it to the hat.
Sew the Eyes & Mouth to the Hat
I pinned the eyes to the hat prior to sewing to keep them in place.
I used the black thread and a blanket stitch to sew the eyes to the hat.
After sewing both the eyes down, I pinned the mouth to the hat and sewed that down using a blanket stitch.
Tie all loose ends on the inside of the hat and weave under the felt.
Embroider the Eye Lashes
I started from the center of the top of the eye and with the black thread, I sewed a satin stitch over about two rows. They are just about 1-inch long.
I made three passes to create the one eyelash and moved about one-quarter of an inch (1/4-inch) to make the other two eyelashes on either side of the center.
Embroider the Cheeks
Using the red thread (came from the Lion Brand Bonbons pack) the idea was to make a half-circle, similar to the stuffed SpongeBob, near the base of the eyes.
I began in the row below the eye I was working with, and made seven (7) about 1/4-inch long stitches to create the half-circle. When I did the first pass and was satisfied with the result, I went back over each stitch using a back stitch the entire time.
The little dots inside the cheek were done with french knots.
Sew on the Crocheted Nose
The very last step so it's not in the way while doing the embroidery details, take the long end of the crocheted nose and center it between the eyes, beginning about the same row as the lowest point of the eyes.
When sewing, try working into the nose area rather than stitching outside of the nose, so that the yarn-stitches are not visible if the nose gets pulled in any one direction.
Step 7: WALL-E Hat Embellishments
I wanted to design the WALL-E hat to be able to go into the wash, just like any other crocheted garment I would create.
I decided to clip on clear plastic lids that I got from the tops of containers that were originally meant to organize my pony beads. They weren't being used yet and were clear, the right size and shape for Wall-E's distinctive viewing sockets (what I call eyes.)
The idea I had to do these clear-plastic eyes was to sew the felt pieces down to the hat while being able to remove the plastic "lenses" and binder clips.
As you can imagine, the clips can be felt on your head if the hat is pulled over it. As you may have seen on the first photo, the clips are high enough on the hat that it shouldn't press on your head if you wear the hat upright and not pulled over the top of your head.
Here's what I did and I encourage you if you make your own hat and use these instructions as a basis, that you let me know if you changed the method to make it better.
My own personal notes:
- I did not originally intend on making the neck as I thought just-the-eyes would look like Wall-E. I was wrong and ended up adding the neck after the first eye was done. (Shown in the attached photos.)
- Though not my best work, I am proud of completing this hat.
- It took me about six hours to embroider the eyes and neck, but I was taking photos of the process and trying to figure it out throughout that time.
- My son loved it. It looks like Wall-E to him and from a distance, I would have to agree with him.
You can get embroidery help with this Instructable: Embroidery 101.
Planning the Eyes
After watching the movie with my children and doing a google search for images, I used a sheet of paper to create a similar version of the eye areas that move up and down on Wall-E's (uh...) head.
I placed the clips from the inside of the hat on round 11. There are four stitches in between the clips for each plastic cap (also called a lens in this instructable.)
There are six stitches in between the two inside clips. (See the photos.)
Using an 8-1/2 x 11-inch sheet of paper, I placed the hat on top and marked out an "X" approximately where the lenses would be on the sheet. I also drew a dashed line on the side of the hat on the paper just in case.
I then traced the plastic cap around the "X" to make the pattern of the outer eye. It took me a couple tries to get the shape I wanted, but I cut out the pattern from the paper to use on the felt.
I used brown felt for the part of the eye under the pupil (I call this the iris.)
I used black felt for the pupil part of the eye, and it was as large as a penny.
Cut the outside part for the Eyes
The first piece I worked on was the outer part or covering of the eye system. Using the pattern I cut out from the sheet of paper, I traced around the pattern on the back side of the mustard colored felt.
I folded the felt in half to get the other eye to be exactly the same size.
To create the lens opening, I marked spots around the lens on the backside of the cut-out felt piece. I then cut a hole SMALLER THAN (by about 1/8-inch around) the spots I marked on the felt. The lenses push through the felt to give the eyes the 3-dimensions I was going for.
Cut the inside part for the Eyes
I placed a small mark where the outside circle lands on the brown inside felt. Mark both sides (or two places) of the hole on the brown.
Take off the outside part of the eyes that cover the brown (iris) piece and place the plastic lens over the marks from the outside circle. Make two marks, one on each side of the lens using a pen. Those outside marks will be where you will make small cuts to push the binder clip through.
Cut just enough material in a line to push the binder clip through, even if it's a little short of the clip length.
Perform the above instructions for both inside brown pieces.
If you haven't cut the black felt circles (penny sized) for the pupils, then please cut those now.
Optional - Stitch around the Clip Opening
I chose to do small stitches around the clip opening with black thread. I was trying to think of the wear on the felt, and hopefully the clips won't catch on the thread in the long run.
Create the Eyes
Using Lion Brand Bonbons in yellow, I did a simple stitch around the edge of the black pupil, in between the two clip openings. After sewing down the pupil, I added two french knots at the 2 o-clock position for added details.
I placed the newly created eyes on the hat to ensure that the hat was going to look like I imagined in my head. When I placed the outside covering on the eye, a bit of brown felt stuck out. I trimmed the corner piece off on both sides.
*Real Quick REMINDER - I did not follow this same process as I wrote here so the photos do not show exactly what I am suggesting, but I tried to clarify that in the photos for your reference.*
Plan & Cut the Felt for the Neck
I drew out an example Wall-E head and neck based on the photo I found on the net. I labeled this drawing with what colors I was going to make the felt pieces.
The next drawing I made was the pieces of the neck themselves. As it may be difficult to see that photo, I labeled all the pieces of the neck from the head down to the bottom of the hat for reference.
All of the pieces were made up as I went along so I did not use a pattern, other than the reference page for the shapes.
Piece 1 is an oval. I used two (American) pennies and a quarter to create this piece on black felt.
Piece 2 is a brown half-circle that sits under the black oval (piece 1.) I used the oval to measure the half-circle by placing the oval on top of the brown and making the half-circle bigger by about 1/8-inch around.
Piece 3 is a "Y" shaped black piece that sits under piece 2 and eventually over piece 4. I ended up trimming the original size I made and that is shown on the photo for piece 3. (I mention this below in the sewing-the-neck description below.)
Next, I made pieces 5 and 6. I started with a brown rectangle for piece 6, with a small black strip over the center.
Piece 5 was a black rectangle with a half-circle as the bottom half of the shape. I used the size of piece 6 to determine the size of piece 5.
Pieces 4 and 7 are both brown rectangles. I started with one large brown rectangle and measured it against piece 5. I trimmed the rectangle to make it a hair smaller in width as piece 5. I flipped piece 5 over and cut the brown rectangle for piece 4 from piece 7. Piece 4 lays over piece 5 and under piece 3.
Crochet the Eye Connectors - Make 2
With black acrylic yarn, and the smaller crochet hook, ch 12 and finish off with a long end for sewing.
Sew the Iris (inside part) to the Hat
I used brown embroidery thread to sew the iris part to the hat with a running stitch. To ensure the felt piece stayed in place, I sewed it with the clips and lens cap on.
Begin to Sew the Neck to the Hat
If I were to do this over again, I would sew the neck pieces to the hat next, before sewing on the outside cover of the eye. (In the photos, the right outer eye covering is almost completely sewn on.)
Note that I used black thread to sew the neck together and to the hat.
In order to sew the neck to the hat, I sewed piece 6 to pieces 5 and 7.
Next I sewed piece 1 to piece 2 using a blanket stitch. I ended up trimming piece 2 on the hat because there was too much brown sticking out around the bottom of the black oval - but I didn't realize this until I began sewing it to the hat!
I placed the nose in between the two eyes and used a blanket stitch to sew piece 1 to the hat.
Sew the Eye Connectors to the Eyes
Using a photo of Wall-E as a guide, slip the end of the crocheted chain under a running stitch of the eye, near piece 2. Sew both sides.
Sew the Outside of the Eye (Eye Covering) to the Hat
I pinned down the outside eye coverings in place prior to sewing it to the hat. I used a brown thread with a blanket stitch to sew the eye covering over each eye. Again, if I were to do it over again, I would have sewn over piece 1 (his oval "nose") on both sides.
Complete Sewing the Neck to the Hat
I started sewing the bottom piece 7 to the bottom of the cuff and worked up to meet piece 2. I used a combination of blanket stitches and running stitches to sew this neck in place.
I sighed a huge sigh when I finished this Instructable. Somebody give me a shout out that you made it to the end of it and (perhaps even) enjoyed it... PLEASE!
Thanks for reading and I hope you make a square hat of your own. I've already had one child request a red one.
Yes, the crafting never ends in my house. I'm sure many of you can relate.... =)