It's just a crossbow shaped like a Colt M1911. That's it. You know that you want one.
WARNING THIS IS NOT A TOY BE CAREFUL DON'T SHOOT AT ANYONE (EXCEPT IN SELF DEFENSE, THATS OKAY I GUESS). IF YOU ARE AN IDIOT, JERK, DRUNK, STONER, OR CRACKHEAD, GO HOME AND RETHINK YOUR LIFE.
By the way please vote for me in the contests that I entered this in. Its easy, it'll just take two seconds. Just click the vote tab at the top and check all the boxes.
I would love to see any other designs you guys could make, from little derringers to sub-machine guns. if someone could make a steampunk crossbow, then please show it.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Materials needed are quite simple:
A piece of thin craft plywood, about 3-ply (I got mine from a old kitchen cabinet)
A reciprocating saw blade
26 gauge steel wire (doesn't need to be too precise, just about 1/16" dia.)
Tools needed are:
Shop Assistant (for taking pictures, retrieving tools, and the like)
Scroll Saw (or any other fine, precise saw)
Knife (always handy)
Step 2: The Design
I made my crossbow look like an M1911, but you could really make it look like any gun that you wanted to.
Step 3: Cut it Out
Draw out your gun on the wood, and cut out the first panel. I started with a hacksaw, but then I got lazy after one cut and decided to use the scroll saw. If you do use the scroll saw, set it at a rather low speed to minimize "chipping".
Step 4: Make the Second Side Panel
This is simple, just trace and cut. If your wood had a "nice" and a "bad" side, then be sure to trace the second panel so that the nice side faces out on both panels.
Step 5: Spacers
These will hold the two panels apart to make room for the trigger. just fill in the spaces where the trigger isn't.
Step 6: The Trigger
Now we get to the details on how this thing actually works. the string sits above the "hammer" on the gun. the trigger acts like a first class lever, that when pulled, pushes the strong up. The string can also sit in a notch instead, but that already existed here.
Step 8: Trigger Installation
Drill the holes in the trigger and the frame. only drill the hole on one of the panels, we'll drill the next one later.
Step 10: Trigger test and attachment
Test the trigger to see that it works properly. Then, skewer the trigger and the panels with a 2" piece of wire. Bend it flat to hold it in place.
Step 12: The Prod
Grind the Teeth off and shape it into a bow shape. First snap off the corners with pliers, then smooth with the grinder to avoid overheating to retain the metal's temper. When grinding, remember to cool in water frequently. Then, make the notches for the string. grind the notches with a cut-off disk and ensure there are no string-severing burrs.
Step 13: Stringing the prod
Take the string, and tie an overhand loop in one end. Put it on the notch, then tie another overhand knot for the other end. The string should lie flat on the prod.
Update: putting electrical tape around the notches helps reduce string-wear
Step 14: Make a Place for the Prod to fit
Cut a groove for the prod to sit about 4" in front of where you want the string to lie when fully pulled. Then, measure how far you can pull the string. it will be a bit short, don't worry. The prod will be removable for flat packing or for use as a prop, if you so desire.
Step 15: The Pull Loop
This will temporarily bridge the gap between the current and desired draw length. this will help to break in the prod until it gets to the full draw length.
Step 16: Drawing the Crossbow (while breaking it in)
The hook is just a piece of thin metal bent as seen in the picture. see picture notes for instructions on drawing. once it's been broken in enough, you can remove the pull loop and draw fully by hand
Step 17: Update: Bolt Holder and Bolt
I had problems with the bolts flipping up end over end, so i put a little loop of wire near the prod to prevent that. I also included bolt detail. Its just a kebab skewer with tape flights, but it works great.