Picture of Crystal cMoy Free Form Headphone Amplifier
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This headphone amplifier circuit is different to conventional modern construction techniques in that it is air Wired,P2P (peer to peer) or free form wiring just like in the good old Valve days before the intervention of  PCB's and the transistor.

Rather than a traditional enclosure, the hole circuit is encapsulated in polyester resin to enhance the internals.

If your reading this and thinking why do you need an amplifier for headphones then click here

Although allot of cMoy headphone amplifiers are designed to be portable this one is designed for the desktop although a battery pack could be made also.

This is a pretty long instructable so "make a brew" as we say in Yorkshire and get comfy .

On the upside there is plenty of pictures :)

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straydoggio13 days ago

Beautiful work.

blackcorvo1 month ago

Add a series schottky diode with the positive supply, and that should make any possibility of capacitor failure from reverse polarity very minimal, while not reducing the supply that much from the ideal voltage.

Keeping the LED after the diode will work as a signal of reversed polarity.

Also, for a better spread light from the LED to the resin, you could have sanded it lightly so it would get a white finish to it.

jolshefsky2 months ago

Very sexy!

Mrmorton1032 months ago

nod to some of the craftsmanship of valve days reminds me of Hiwatt amp porn

beautiful build – much more “3D” than I’m used to looking at electronics.

the screwdriver lead bending tip for this kind of application too.

Jdohl692 months ago

A step by step instructable where the "why" was explained just as well as the "how". I'm going to do this project not just to have a headphone amp for my bose over-ear phones, but to learn more about electronics along the way. Thanks! May be the best instructable I've read.

troyka4 months ago

stunning, never wanted a pre amp untill now.

privatex4 months ago

Beautiful preamp!

Excellent job man!!

LesB7 months ago

Usually you are not supposed to take plastic to a belt sander because it clogs up the sandpaper. Did you have any problem in this regard?

sisaiah8 months ago
Amazing and looks cool. I love it great
Boobr9 months ago

Wow! pure genius!

Battlespeed10 months ago

I know it's counterintuitive, but actually pouring a thin stream of resin from a height of 3 feet or so is better for eliminating bubbles than pouring close to the mold.

GunnerXL11 months ago

Remake this amp for second time,added two 9V rechargeable battery and edit the schematic after discussion with my dad.Replacing OPA2107 with TL072NC,added a plastic shell casing and a hook(I need portability).Works perfectly with my Alessanddro MS1i.

jsharp21 year ago

I noticed that you have Top and side views but not bottom. I think a bottom view would be incredibly useful understanding the layout.

LesB1 year ago

Beautiful! I absolutely love the look of the guts-within-clear-resin concept.

I bought this kit (link) to build a digital "ice cube" clock with a blue fluorescent display.
The kit has that acrylic enclosure, but I would like instead to enclose it in resin. This would make it even more like the ice cube of its moniker.

One concern is that contraction of the resin during cure would crack the glass fluorescent tube. Any thoughts on that? I can get replacement tubes on eBay for $6, so I might just try it and see what happens.

Another thought: In order to avoid having to do the sand-and-polish, how 'bout if I put the circuit inside an acrylic box and pour the resin into that? Will the seam between the two clear plastics disappear? Or will the resin dissolve the acrylic? An then there's the heat. I could use polycarbonate instead, which is less susceptible to chemical interaction than acrylic and has a higher service temperature.

Shifting the topic from the enclosure to the amp: Another reason for me to have a headphone amp is that I have damaged hearing (too many Greatful Dead concerts when I was young). The high frequency in my heaing roughly follows a second-order attenuation starting aaround 300 Hz. With a headphone amp, I can build-in filter circuitry to compensate for this attenuation.

Thats absolutely beautiful :O

mboracci1 year ago
excellent job, i think i would have tinted the resin slightly, with a fluorescent pigment and used a uv LED inside, there are so many applications for embedding electronics as art, and this has created eexcitement for the sculpture aspect of electronics
Jimmeh301 year ago
" air Wired,P2P (peer to peer) or free form wiring just like in the good old Valve days before the intervention of PCB's and the transistor."
It's actually called "point to point" wiring and PCB's and Transistors don't "intervene" with anything. I think you mean "invention" or "advent". It's enough to put me off reading the rest of the article for fear of screaming at my monitor in frustration.

VERY nice job though friend! Good to see your fabrication skills far outweigh your language skills :)
pmk2221 year ago
I'm curious as to how you found the correct lengths for the large copper wire and how you knew where to bend them. obviously you had an idea of how you wanted this to look but reviewing the pictures I'm still uncertain how I would be able to get the correct length and shape without making it look terrible. you did an absolutely beautiful job and I wish to congratulate you on a functional piece on art. thank you for sharing this amazing project.
rtozier1 year ago
Thanks for this Instructable! It motivated me to build one myself!
Rummidge1 year ago
Precioso! Very good looking and... It finally works. Gorgeous! I wish I had the patience and skills to build one. I am impressed.
sercancer1 year ago
Hi there!! It is very good instruction. Well done.
Ive got a question. I am thinkin to use this resin coating for my project. Is this copper skeleton essential? Thanks in advance
Is it possible to do this with a electronic project with a screen and toggle switches.
Do you have any examples of this.
M.Hawse1 year ago
My wife bought the parts for this cMoy amp circuit for my birthday so that I could build a couple of these. Anyhow, we managed to get only quality components, yet everything was still very affordable. I just finished making my first one of these 15 mins ago and it worked perfectly the first time--no kidding! My success on this was due to your generous build documentation. I haven't sealed the circuit yet because I want to see what I can do to add mods I can insert onboard (volume, on/off, bypass...etc), but the music that gets pumped out of this is a very beautiful thing. I've tested this amp with all of my Kicker, Philips/o'neil, V-Moda Crossfade, and TurtleBeach headphones. The circuit delivers on every single one. Thanks again for posting this.
greenpoise1 year ago
I am new to all these Headphone Amplifier thing and was just wondering, how is the quality on such design? compared to commercial amps?
davidm2001 year ago
testing the circuit will eliminate any need for diodes..... although it looks pretty cool.... wall sockets? i guess you need diodes since it changes polarity (60hz...well at least in korea)
M.Hawse1 year ago
This is soooo sweet! Now I have to go build one (or two).
Many thanks for posting such a great article with clear photos. This is definitely one of my favorites.
ToXiCATOM1 year ago
wow!it is so coollllllll!!!
atterack8332 years ago
stunning , im thinking of making my xbox laptop (battery powered ) incased in such , what would be the weight of 3201cm3 be ? im assuming heavy but how heavy 7 lbs i assume as water weighs that not bad as fiberglass 3/16 of an inch is 8 lbs
I don't know what resin weighs but 3201cc of pure water would weigh about 3.2kg. I'd assume most resins like this ultraclear one would be quite a bit heavier.
koogar (author)  legless2 years ago
I do know that this particular resin weighs around the same as water.But if it was possible to encapsulate an XBOX your about right legless:P
big waste of parts if ont thing fails lol
360 , and as long as your amp worked than it will , also so long as it doesnt crush it or crack it when it expands , 26 - 28 pound weight , so its not a cary everyware thing and it would weigh more if i did a keyboard and be harder to seal , if i did , it would have to be acrilic
id' worry a LOT about heat. though it'd be cool as heck to see....
ya id have to wattercool , it would be un servisable , but it would only be a special edition , like the seamless polished stainless steel or the seamless brushed aluminum or even the standard material but with raised inserts and a halo theme models , id only make %10 of total sales for each so if i sold 10 id make 1 of each of those , i wanted to make a seperate waterproof model , but i might as well use that one , anything hotter than the chips he uses would get a water block , any others would have a tiny heat sink put on before caseing , all the water cooling system would be tested in a box with the hose`s sticking out for the radiator , but id just run a flow of cold water intstead , maybe in a tub till its warm then id swap warm water for cold 1 bucket at a time , that would use less water , then when i know it works for at least 24 hours id set it up for casing but id just leave a plug for the fan and 2 hoses for the rad , those would be screwed in , and if it gets sub mersed in watter a sensor would shut power to the fan till the temp went up too high , that way the fan doesnt break and the water can cool the radiator it would be big and heavy but i think it would be cool , hold your breath and game under watter (i know i have to make a controller now too) but the main thing is it could drop (oh btw if theres an over load at the fan port it will shut down so it doesnt burn out the plug) to the ocean or lake floor and divers or umaned vehicle could retrieve it and then just replace the fan
this is soo cool. i love the open design. i've always wondered why they bother with the boards soemtiems. wouldnt it be just as easy to string together the components without one? well, this prooves it can be done.... just takes up more space than i'd thought it would.

still, that thing is beutiful, and neat. i really want to make one now.
sconner12 years ago
Well done! This looks as good as a commercial product.
I've built a few portable c-moys but none so pretty.
I wish I could think of an easy way to get a battery compartment with touch terminals for a couple 9V's in the mold.
sculpty/playdoe. fill the batery compartment to the brim? not sure, but i'd think it'd work. then after it's set, just dig it out.
DoctorHow1 year ago
great project and great volume quality too! But Is it possible to add a volume knob in this circuit?

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