I will assume the user knows to replace the spark plug regularly, to use fresh fuel, and to replace or clean the air filter.
With time and normal vibration, the screws that seal the crankcase from air leaks loosen just a little and air gets into the engine through leaks in the crankcase gaskets.
First check the mounting screws for the carburetor and tighten them. Then go to the screws that hold the cylinder head to the crankcase body and those that cover the end where the crankshaft comes out of the engine. See the yellow circles on this photo of a weed whacker engine. If any of these screws loosen as little as a quarter of a turn air begins to leak into the engine and the fuel/air mixture either is not pushed into the engine on the piston's downstroke or it becomes too lean for the engine to run by pulling in extra air during the piston's upstroke.
After about ten years of use, no amount of tightening on these screws will make a dead engine run. Chances are the gaskets have become hardened beyond their ability to seal the engine. Dismantle the engine completely and install new gaskets. You may not be able to buy the proper gaskets, but you can buy a sheet of gasket material. Use the old gaskets or the engine castings as a pattern to cut new gaskets. Your engine will run like new again.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Clean the exhaust ports, too.
Once I used our small 2-cycle garden tiller. After ten minutes the engine siezed and stopped. I had mixed 2-cycle oil with the gasoline, but it was old by the time I was using it. I found advice on the Internet that said to let the engine cool. Then use a wrench with a long handle to slowly turn the engine over. Turn in the same direction, not back and forth. That engine still works very well, although I am sure it suffered a little. Lesson learned: always use freshly mixed fuel.
When a gasoline engine of any kind will sit unused for any length of time, drain the fuel from the tank and run the engine until all remaining fuel in the system has been burned through the engine. This prevents gums and varnishes from closing off small openings.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |







































No more acceleration but now the bike sometimes is as before or still wont give me its full power i used 100 octane gasoline (worked fine) after 3 refills with normal unleaded fuel it wont rev past 2000 rpm...
and if i keep the throttle down it stop me and my mechanic have absolutely no idea what is going on.
any thoughts?
Engine problems can be confusing; but, every engine needs good compression, good spark delivered at just the right time, clean fuel mixed in the right proportion with clean air. In the case of a two-cycle engine, the crankcase must provide a good seal from outside air, the reed valve must seal properly, and the exhaust ports must allow free movement of gases without any choking or restriction. I know saying these things is a little like telling someone in financial difficulties that the problem is either taking in too little or spending too much. But, a careful examination of each (air, fuel, spark, and compression, etc.) will usually locate the problem eventually.
Thanks for looking at this and for commenting. I hope you are able to resolve the problem soon.
I've worked in a small engine shop since i was like 7 .
I bought a new muffler for this bugger and guess what, thw new muffler has notthing inside it either! Ya live - ya loin..... And it's still God-Awful loud!!!
On a 2-stroker, there's a reed instead of a valve on the intake side of the cylinder which can go south w/o back pressure, or so I was told more than a few years ago.
The thing won't till, though. I think the worm gear inside the wee differential has definitely gone South - a project for the Winter
Happiest of Thanksgivings to all of you, and I'm hopeful everyone will have somewhere to go for this special American day.