While intended as a con costume, Midna this would be great for Halloween also. She really is kinda creepy looking.
I used reflective tape to make my glow lines - I don't have many in-progress photos because I hadn't planned on making an Instructable, but I can have a list of materials, approximate costs, and how long it took me. I can also answer any questions you might have - I am always happy to share!
This project was time consuming, but not that hard to do. It requires surface prep, storage space, hot glue and patience.
I've described the following steps as best as I can without progress shots, please ask questions if you have any!!
Step 1: The bodysuit
-Paint, there are some options here
-Dress form, if possible, if not, a few sheets of cardboard folded up can work
The Suit -
This was the one place I cheated. I bought a zentai suit off ebay in white. Midna is actually very pale blue - I used this statue here for some referenceshttp://: http://www.first4figures.com/component/option,com_myphp/Itemid,3/product,82/ - luckly, my friend also owns this statue and got me several very good close ups of Midna.
I dyed the suit overall a very pale shade of light blue using poly idye. This stuff can be tricky, and dying polyester usually takes a little bit of time. Read the directions carefully. RIT dyes would probably also work.
7 pots of black fabric ink - heat-setting and opaque, but not thick. If I redo the suit, I may just go with regular fabric paint, but I wanted the body suit to look dyed rather than having a thicker paint layer. I found mine at Jerry's Art-O-Rama for about $3 a pot.
300 inches of reflective bike tape in blue. I started with three packs of this -http://http://www.amazon.com/Lightweights-Reflector-Tape-Deep-100-Inch/dp/B003Z7YJI4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381069338&sr=8-2&keywords=light+weights+tape+blue and it wasn't quite enough,, so I bought some extra sheets on ebay
The prep work for the suit involved me removing the dress form from the stand, wrapping the whole thing in plastic wrap, and then sliding the suit onto the dress form. It made it easier to figure out how to make the lines, and easier to actually paint. Let the suit dry on the dress form, and you can heat set it on the dress form as well.
Stay flow fabric gel stuff - I can't recall the exact name of it, but it's easy to find in art stores. It makes for clean lines where your black edges stop and will prevent bleeding, You paint it on first roughly where you think the edges will be, then allow to dry. It will be invisible once it dries, so you need to mark where your lines will be first, either in chalk, soft pencil or something else that will wash out later.
Once you paint your bodysuit with black, it MUST be heat set, or when you wash it, i'll just all just flow right out again. I do my heat setting with a heat gun set to low, and waving it back and forth gently. I figured out how long it would take by using a scrap bit of material from the hood of the suit, since I wasn't using it. The hood also was great for dye testing. I only wash the suit gently with a wet/damp cloth and rub it carefully. Zentai suits can come in very thin, and can damage easily.
I had to apply the tape with both hot glue and super glue. In the end, the best thing was a super strong spray adhesive - spray into a separate disposable dish, then apply to the underside of the tape with a q-tip. the tape is sticky, but does not set perfectly. I had to glue down a number of edges and corners after applying. Use chalk to trace where your lines will go before applying, once the tape is down, even if the edges turn up, it will not come up without damaging the suit.
Later, I added bits of worbla covered in leather and fabric to make the spikes on my arms. The collar should also have curled spikes, but I don't really have room for them
My suit cost: around $200. Same thing can be done with a $30 zentai suit and thicker, black fabric paint - or a black zentai suit and paint over in white instead - you will use less paint this way. Instead of reflective tape, simply use blue fabric paint and heat set. Chalk your lines first, if you can, it works better to do it with a friend's help - you pretty much have to be wearing the suit while applying the tape/paint because of stretchiness.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When using the heat gun, you CAN burn the lycra/spandex material of the bodysuit. If you use a heat gun to heat set/dry the paint/ink/whatever, you must use the lowest setting and be very very gentle. Do not let the gun point at any one spot for any length of time, and do not get the business end of the gun too close to the fabric - 2 inches away is plenty close enough. When it's 'done', the fabric will be hot to the touch, but not finger burning. The FIRST indication you get that you are too close/too hot, is that the fabric will visibly flatten, and then it will turn brown and burn. I tried it out on a scrap of hood to see what it would take to ruin it, and it can happen very very fast. After the test scrap, I had no problems heat setting the whole suit.
You can also use the heat gun to dry the ink/paint, and this will further help keep clean lines.