Instructables

Custom 3d printed car parts

FeaturedContest Winner
Picture of Custom 3d printed car parts
IMG_0411-1.JPG
IMG_0416-1.jpg
IMG_0416-2.JPG
The ability of 3d printing to form any shape is quite remarkable. To be able to imagine a part, design it and then simply place an order online and have it arrive in the mailbox is amazing. Especially when the part in question could not realistically be made any other way.

Take for example these lock levers from my 1962 Valiant. The originals are a diecast aluminium and feature a very fine spline. I doubt they would be able to be manufactured any other way. Even with CNC machining I imagine the part would have to be made in two pieces if it was possible at all.

The replacements were needed due to an oversight on my part. I had made some lovely new door trims for my the Valiant. The fronts turned out so well i went ahead and made the rears to match. However in my enthusiasm I did not take into account the lock levers which only feature on the rears. Show here is the locking lever spline protruding through the trim baseboard before trim, and after I had finished the trim with the padding. No spline protrudes and therefore the original lock levers do not fit. So how to fix this without remaking the whole door trims?

3D printing to the rescue!
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Measure

Picture of Measure
IMG_0418.JPG
IMG_0421.JPG
Carefully measuring the spline dimensions gave me the basics. A 20 spline shaft with an outer diameter of 8.29mm and an inner diameter of 8.08mm, a length of 12mm and a spline depth of only .2mm. This would surely be stretching the the limits of 3d printing accuracy, but I had been very happy with shapeways SLS fine detail on some previous models, so I thought it would be worth a shot.
madmorrie (author) 1 year ago
Thanks all for the comments. Yes, the original was chrome plated, and had the screw exposed. On my version the screw head is much more recessed so is less visible anyway.
I had intended to get metal ones printed and then polish them, but I will see how the plastic ones hold up to general usage first. They seem pretty strong to me.

And yes, while this is a relatively simple part, it does show the opportunites for this kind of thing. This was still way cheaper, faster and easier than most options than cnc or manual machining.
XenonJohn1 year ago
Hi there fellow Valiant owner.

About to print some HT lead spacers for my 1968 VE Valiant using my Makerbot. I probably have the only one in the UK (Valiant that is).

John
loop1 year ago
Nice job - voted because of the car. Love the old R and S-type Vals.
justajo1 year ago
It does seem like the screwhead should be covered, but maybe on the original it wasn't. Do think the original would have been chrome-plated. Could have that done. Still looks good tho. (That styling, shared by the entire Chrysler line, came out when I was a teen and was a refreshing design departure from the other makers. Wasn't that well received by the unimaginative public. I wanted one anyway and still do.)
Just as an aside, we plan on picking up a '62 Valiant Signent 200 2dr as our 14yr old daughter's first car over our summer holiday. She is a tremendous kid and student, really liking old stuff. When I showed her a beautifully restored one locally, she went gaga and doesn't want my '67 Cuda fastback anymore.
onemoroni11 year ago
Nice adaptation of 3D printing to solve a problem.
maxo901 year ago
Why without cover cap on it ?;]
This is a cool project. I love what can be done with 3D printing and the service that Shapeways offers.

This could also have been accomplished by a machine shop using a broaching tool. The tradeoff would be expense, but the result would be a very strong part.
Aloxite1 year ago
Great project. I have a 67 Valiant myself. If you do need parts call Wildcat Auto Wrecking. They have several of the early Valiants and Lancers. I'm happy to see more old Val's being cared for.
thats a great project cool car too!
jarikcbol1 year ago
nicely done!