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Custom Acrylic Chess Board

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Step 4: Assembly: Board

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Alright, hard part's done, let's do this!!!

Here are some lovely little power settings I used for my parts.  I used a Universal Laser 6.6, 60W (Picture 1).

Cut 0.236" thick acrylic:  100% Power, 2% Speed
Cut 0.118" thick acrylic: 100% Power, 5% Speed
Engrave any acrylic:  80% Power, 100% Speed

LEAVE THE PROTECTIVE PAPER ON THE BOTTOM OF EACH SHEET AS LONG AS POSSIBLE.  

I mean that.

You'll want to remove the top sheets for all of the acrylic sheets (squares, trim, etc) so you don't have to peel all of them off individually when everything is cut out.  I made this mistake the first time and my fingers hurt a ton by the time I was done.

Great, your parts are now cut out!  WOOOOOOO!  Picture 2 shows all the squares and trim laid out.  Note the protective paper.  I should have taken some of that off earlier :(

Picture 3 shows the holes in the bottom layer.  These require a bit of work.  You may have to punch out some plugs that get stuck in there (like the right hole).  Next, drill them out with the #36 drill bit and then tap them with a 6-32 tap.  The cross section looks pretty slick, you can see the threads.

Picture 6, alright, rip off the protective paper, it's go time.

Lay down the bottom layer.  Lay the trim around the edges, then place the individual squares in.  You may want to use archival gloves to avoid smudging things.  Now lay the top layer on.  Take your allen wrench, drop screws through the top layer, through the middle layer, and then thread them into the bottom layer.  Don't overtighten, you'll strip out the threads in the bottom layer.

Put a little rubber foot on the bottom between each pair of two screws.  Voila!  BOARD (Last Picture)!
 
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