I don’t have a picture for every step (I was not planning on posting it here) but this should get the message across. Also, I did not bother including specific measurements since this can pretty much be any size you want it to be. My mirror is about 30”x 45”.
Steps I took:
• Made the supporting frame.
• Installed/wired the Fluorescent fixtures
• Made and finished the frame molding from stock lumber.
• Put it all together.
• 2 Fluorescent light fixtures. I bought mine for about $20.00 each. If you have a couple lying around, that would work as well since you will be taking them apart.
• 1x3 stock softwood for the structural frame.
• 1x3 stock hardwood for the frame molding (I used Maple)
• ¼” plywood
• “Liquid Nail” adhesive ( READ THE LABEL! you need the recommended type for mirror installation)
Step 1: Basic Design
Step 2: The Supporting Frame / Wiring
Sidewalls of the frame are wide enough for the Fluorescent bulb and the ballasts. Wide enough, to be able to change the bulbs in the future, while the frame is attached to the wall.
Once the frame is put together, drill holes to run the socket wiring through.
Step 3: Making/Finishing the Frame Molding
You will be making two parallel cuts into the plank, making room for the mirror and the plywood and a third cut to remove the excess.
Here is a tip, once you set the saw’s fence for one cut, continue the same cut on all pieces before you do the next cut. This will ensure you will have a uniformly cut molding at the end.
Once you have the molding cut, it is time for “finishing “.
First, sand the heck out of the molding with 220-240 Grit to get rid of any minor imperfections etc and then, dust it off with a cloth i used an old T shirt.
1. One coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
2. Three coats of Minwax Wood Finish oil-based stain
3. Two coats of Minwax Wipe-On Poly. This stuff is FANTASCTIC! Just rub it on with a cloth no brush or brush marks to deal with and the result is great.'
Step 4: Attaching the Mirror
• I cut the plywood 2 ½ ‘(all around) larger than the supporting frame to allow enough overlap to cover the fluorescent bulbs without obscuring the light too much.
• I centered the frame on top of the ply and outlined it from the inside and out. Then, I drilled pilot holes between the lines.
• After that, I reversed the positions (ply on top of the frame) and used the pilot holes to center the frame again and secure it with screws. Make sure the screws sink in below surface of the plywood. The mirror will be glued on top of them.
I cut an old closed door mirror to size for this project and used a whole tube but Liquid Nail to glue the mirror to the ply wood.
Step 5: Final Step
Once the mirror is in place and the adhesive has cured, it’s time to cut the molding to size (at 45 degree) and put it all together.
The trick is to attach the molding to the plywood so that it frames the mirror without any sign of screws. The simplest way achieve that is to screw the molding from the back side of the plywood.
Just drill pilot holes every few inches, place the molding on top and secure in place with a clamp and drive in a small screw form the back and work your way around.
How the heck you hang it now?
As you might have imagined this thing is pretty heavy. To secure it to the wall, I took a 1x3 and cut the top 1/3 at a45 degree. Then, I screwed the smaller piece to the top side of the support frame and the bigger piece to the wall. Check out the drawing, it will make more sense
That’s about it!
I did this project in about 20 to 25 hours over 2 weeks and spent just about $100.