Step 7: Make the Scabbard

To make a scabbard for your sword start with a large piece of cardboard. It should be at least three times the with of your sword and six inches longer. Trace the outline of the blade on the card board. If there are any projections or jagged edges on your blade trace from tip to tip and ignore th gaps. This will make it so the blade can slide easily. Cut out the outline and use the inside piece as a template to make another identical side piece. Before you continue, take a long piece of cardboard and make a strip of as wide as the foam is thick at its thickest point. The strip should be taped along the blade edge of the scabbard perpendicular to the side piece. using the same method attach the other side. Now take a long strip of duck tape and put is sticky side up along the open edge of the scabbard. using smaller pieces attach the tape to the sides of the scabbard to make a "roof."   This "roof" can also be made with another strip of cardboard. The sword should now be able slide in and out of the scabbard. To finish the scabbard either ad a belt loop or a shoulder strap or both! 
<p>It looks much more like a bardiche than a sword, because a sword's blade usually has the hilt attached to the bottom of blade while yours has the blade attached much like how an ax head is attached to its handle. A Bardiche has a blade that varied greatly in shape, but was most often a long, cleaver type blade. The distinction was in how the blade was attached to the pole. The bardiche blade was attached to the pole either via two sockets (one at the top of the pole and one lower, at the base of the blade) or one socket at the top and one surface mount at the base, effectively mounting the heavy blade to the wooden shaft. This construction is also seen in Scottish polearms, such as the Lochaber axe and Jeddart staff, and bardiches are known to have been imported into Scotland in the 16th and 17th centuries. Depending on the design of the particular weapons in question, at times a bardiche may greatly resemble a voulge.</p><p>While the blade was often very long for an axe (usually exceeding 2 feet (60 cm)) the shaft was one of the shortest of all polearms; rarely did it exceed 5 feet (1.5 m) in length. It relied more on the weight of its heavy blade to do the damage than a swing from a long pole. This makes the bardiche more similar to the Danish axe, in some respects, than to a true polearm.</p><p>Sorry if that was confusing, I guess I might have got a bit carried a way, but nice weapon you have created here.</p>
<p>For some reason it would not let me but this as a reply to <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/doomsdayltd" rel="nofollow">doomsdayltd</a> 's comment.</p>
its called DUCT TAPE. DUCK TAPE is a brand
It was originally developed for making amo boxes water tight (like ducks). As such it was refereed to as &quot;duck&quot; tape. It was also called &quot;duck&quot; because of it's fabric based that resembled cotton duck (canvas). It was later discovered that it works well on ducts too. Because that is now it's main &quot;official&quot; application it is normally called &quot;duct&quot; tape. However, I like to use the original name. Both names are technically correct.<br><br>Best,<br>-Pie
hmm more like a halberd than a sword but i like the idea!
The handle is not quite long enough for a halberd, but I do see the resemblance. It is styled partly after a sword from the anime Bleach.
ah, i thought it looked like that. but yea, halberd's are much longer....so a scabbed for one is redonkulus
its a good idea and i understand were you are coming from with the idea. Another idea is to use poly foam planks, i use two inch thick ones to make shields and weapons from. Just trying to pass one tips from one foam smith to another.
Wood is arguably the WORST core you can use for a padded sword of any kind. It's illegal in nearly EVERY game for a reason: It breaks. It splinters. Especially plywood. And with that &quot;half-tang&quot; construction, I have no doubts that sword will break at the handle. It's a nice idea, but don't expect any field-martial or Reeve to allow that sword onto a LARPing field.
Its not meant as a LARP sword. It is a simple alternative to the PVC boffer. I made mine for use as a prop or dueling sword. It is meant as a step up from a normal wooden sword in terms of safety, and as testing ground for sword designs before you spend money getting nice sword foam.

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Bio: Being yourself is the way to be. I'm proud of nonconformity!
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