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Jun 23, 2011. 8:43 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
I'm moving most of my instructables to my creative development blog.
This instructable has been moved here:
http://www.threewestcreative.com/3913/custom-plumbing-pipe-desk/
This instructable has been moved here:
http://www.threewestcreative.com/3913/custom-plumbing-pipe-desk/
Aug 30, 2011. 4:25 AMEirinn
says:
Tried visiting your site but my antivirus throws up a big fat warning (it usualy never does).
Aug 30, 2011. 5:03 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
I was having problems last week with a timthumb.php file and Chrome was giving that warning but I've since removed that file and checked the problem with an online scanner and it was fine and Chrome is no longer giving the warning. Try clearing your cache and visiting again. If it's still happening, I'll check again.
Aug 31, 2011. 1:31 AMEirinn
says:
I visited your site for the first time that day - no clearing of any cache is remotely needed - nor am i visiting again before it's fixed.
Aug 31, 2011. 5:12 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Oh nooooo. You won't be visiting. How will I ever live. :) hahahahahahaha Cheers!
Aug 31, 2011. 5:12 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
My website has been fixed. I'll be removing all of my project links from this site.
May 21, 2011. 12:23 PMmduhamel
says:
Hey. I am thinking about doing a similar desk so i have a couple questions.
How sturdy is this using plumping pipe? I see lots of projects with Kee Lite klamps but they are out of my price range. What is the load weight of the desk?
How easy would it be to add t-fittings and attach shelves underneath?
How sturdy is this using plumping pipe? I see lots of projects with Kee Lite klamps but they are out of my price range. What is the load weight of the desk?
How easy would it be to add t-fittings and attach shelves underneath?
Jun 21, 2011. 5:35 PMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Sorry it's taken me so long to check this. The plumbing pipe is sturdy in that it definitely won't give out on you. But it's tough to get all the pipes screwed in tightly together. If you never plan to take it apart, you could ad some kind of glue. But I am able to eliminate the slight wobble by pushing one end (just the two legs) in as far as they'll go (it's a very tiny give).
The load on the desk given all the materials I used is fantastic. It may be even better with a solid piece of wood (my friend tells me I can get cheap butcher block counter top wood for cheap in the junk section of Ikea but I haven't looked). But since I first built this desk there are no signs of it giving in and I'm at it for hours every day and still use two very heavy CRT monitors on it.
You can find a lot of creative ways to add shelves to this thing. But to add "in-line" shelves, you'll have to plan them in the original build. Adding them after would probably require adjustments with the desk top. I've been thinking about ways to make shelves that will hang on the existing pipe.
I've got my chords hung all over the pipes underneath, it's just great. There aren't chords hanging all over the place.
Good luck with your build.
The load on the desk given all the materials I used is fantastic. It may be even better with a solid piece of wood (my friend tells me I can get cheap butcher block counter top wood for cheap in the junk section of Ikea but I haven't looked). But since I first built this desk there are no signs of it giving in and I'm at it for hours every day and still use two very heavy CRT monitors on it.
You can find a lot of creative ways to add shelves to this thing. But to add "in-line" shelves, you'll have to plan them in the original build. Adding them after would probably require adjustments with the desk top. I've been thinking about ways to make shelves that will hang on the existing pipe.
I've got my chords hung all over the pipes underneath, it's just great. There aren't chords hanging all over the place.
Good luck with your build.
Great project! I think I'm going to build my ow, but with a few modifications. I'm going to make it quite a bit smaller, and use two planks of cork floor tiles as the top. Because the tiles are so thin, I'm probably end up gluing them to the braces as well. I'll post pictures when I'm finished!
Jan 28, 2011. 3:37 PMBascaria
says:
This is fantastic! I love the look and can't wait to build my own.
I'm thinking about adapting it into a standing desk style, and just wanted to see how stable yours was, as it will involve adding about a foot of height. I'm thinking another set of horizontal pipes to stabilize it near the bottom might not be out of order. Thoughts?
Also thinking about doing a chalkboard surface for the desk (probably painted wood). Maybe not the most computer friendly with all the dust, but I think it would look awesome and go well with the industrial feel.
I'm thinking about adapting it into a standing desk style, and just wanted to see how stable yours was, as it will involve adding about a foot of height. I'm thinking another set of horizontal pipes to stabilize it near the bottom might not be out of order. Thoughts?
Also thinking about doing a chalkboard surface for the desk (probably painted wood). Maybe not the most computer friendly with all the dust, but I think it would look awesome and go well with the industrial feel.
Feb 20, 2011. 6:15 PMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Sounds like a great idea! I think another set of bars would definitely help and the rubber feet for sure. It's not easy getting things built with plumbing pipe nice and tight all the way around but I was able to eliminate the slight wobble from my desk by pushing the legs inward as far as they would go. Now it doesn't budge. Good luck on your project. :) Now all I want to do is build things.
First off, cheers to @ThreeWestCreative for putting this together and coming up with a great idea. I signed up to instructables because this was a great idea that I wanted to put together for myself.
So, as someone who has now built this project, I thought I might offer my experience in case it may help others.
I had just moved a small project music studio slash my design office from an artist/workshop space to an apartment, into a room that while not small per se is much, much smaller. In my old space I had my music rig set up on a huge 10'x4.5' work table. It wasn't glamorous but it was rock solid: cast iron legs, heavy slab top. But if it was mine to take, there was no way to move it and it wouldn't have fit. So, I needed a desk, but I needed pretty specific measurements and something that I could setup myself. I was chuffed when I found this.
Anyway. Here are some notes for potential builders:
* Unless I'm missing something, there's a 'bug' in your instructions: you say 7 pieces of the deck wood, which is 6 for the surface and one for the bottom braces. But you'll note in all your pictures, and to meet the measurements of the assembled frame, you need a top that is 7 pieces with an additional piece for the braces—total 8 pieces. 6 pieces of wood won't fit the frame if you use these lengths of pipe. I had to go back and get another plank (not a big deal).
* I ended up getting all the parts at Home Depot; Lowes didn't have a lot of the piping that I needed. Also, I learned, technically all these pre-cut pipes are called nipples. So when you say '10 - 1/2" nipples' your actually referring to what they call 'close nipple'. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nipple_%28plumbing%29
* By far the worst part of the project was getting the stickers and tape off the pipes. Get yourself a box of latex-free gloves. A bucket of water and the tape remover eventually gets 'em clean but it's a job.
* Well, that and the pipe joint compound—what you call 'pipe grease'—some nasty stuff if you're working without the gloves.
* My old work table was higher than 24" so initially I tried 4 x 32" lengths that I found at H.D. for the legs. I didn't take into account the height the the T-joints and 1/2" pipe nipples added. So it was taller than I expected. More significantly it was way too wobbly. So I got the 24" lengths.*see below*
* I needed the desk to be 6' long so I cut my boards before I assembled them and put them on the frame. So rather than the 2 x 36" length braces I used 2 x 30" lengths.
* I gave up on the second lengthwise brace. I couldn't work out how to get it tighten up enough so it wasn't distracting. I played a while with the order of assembly, but by the time I got the frame as you have it in the pictures here and with everything torqued in place I couldn't get the mechanics for another lengthwise bar without loosening it too much.
* As noted, it's very soft wood. If I could do it over I would use screws with wider heads, or some washers when screwing the frame to the top—the holes in the cleats are pretty wide. I had some old gloss black paint as well as the poly, and I used the un-ridged side so I have a slick-black work surface.
Frankly, it was still a little more wobbly than I was used to. I've bracketed to the wall and that has taken of it for the most part. If I get ambitious I might try to construct a similar frame but with a series of smaller pipe nipples and T-joints for the legs, all torqued to their fullest—if I feel like doing that Rubik's Cube. ;-)
Again, this was great for getting me 0 to 60 on a new work desk that doesn't look like 2x4s hastily nailed together but was wider and simpler than what I could get commercially. Thanks a lot.
So, as someone who has now built this project, I thought I might offer my experience in case it may help others.
I had just moved a small project music studio slash my design office from an artist/workshop space to an apartment, into a room that while not small per se is much, much smaller. In my old space I had my music rig set up on a huge 10'x4.5' work table. It wasn't glamorous but it was rock solid: cast iron legs, heavy slab top. But if it was mine to take, there was no way to move it and it wouldn't have fit. So, I needed a desk, but I needed pretty specific measurements and something that I could setup myself. I was chuffed when I found this.
Anyway. Here are some notes for potential builders:
* Unless I'm missing something, there's a 'bug' in your instructions: you say 7 pieces of the deck wood, which is 6 for the surface and one for the bottom braces. But you'll note in all your pictures, and to meet the measurements of the assembled frame, you need a top that is 7 pieces with an additional piece for the braces—total 8 pieces. 6 pieces of wood won't fit the frame if you use these lengths of pipe. I had to go back and get another plank (not a big deal).
* I ended up getting all the parts at Home Depot; Lowes didn't have a lot of the piping that I needed. Also, I learned, technically all these pre-cut pipes are called nipples. So when you say '10 - 1/2" nipples' your actually referring to what they call 'close nipple'. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nipple_%28plumbing%29
* By far the worst part of the project was getting the stickers and tape off the pipes. Get yourself a box of latex-free gloves. A bucket of water and the tape remover eventually gets 'em clean but it's a job.
* Well, that and the pipe joint compound—what you call 'pipe grease'—some nasty stuff if you're working without the gloves.
* My old work table was higher than 24" so initially I tried 4 x 32" lengths that I found at H.D. for the legs. I didn't take into account the height the the T-joints and 1/2" pipe nipples added. So it was taller than I expected. More significantly it was way too wobbly. So I got the 24" lengths.*see below*
* I needed the desk to be 6' long so I cut my boards before I assembled them and put them on the frame. So rather than the 2 x 36" length braces I used 2 x 30" lengths.
* I gave up on the second lengthwise brace. I couldn't work out how to get it tighten up enough so it wasn't distracting. I played a while with the order of assembly, but by the time I got the frame as you have it in the pictures here and with everything torqued in place I couldn't get the mechanics for another lengthwise bar without loosening it too much.
* As noted, it's very soft wood. If I could do it over I would use screws with wider heads, or some washers when screwing the frame to the top—the holes in the cleats are pretty wide. I had some old gloss black paint as well as the poly, and I used the un-ridged side so I have a slick-black work surface.
Frankly, it was still a little more wobbly than I was used to. I've bracketed to the wall and that has taken of it for the most part. If I get ambitious I might try to construct a similar frame but with a series of smaller pipe nipples and T-joints for the legs, all torqued to their fullest—if I feel like doing that Rubik's Cube. ;-)
Again, this was great for getting me 0 to 60 on a new work desk that doesn't look like 2x4s hastily nailed together but was wider and simpler than what I could get commercially. Thanks a lot.
Feb 20, 2011. 6:01 PMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Thanks for posting your experience building from my instructions. I will make the corrections you suggested. I was writing this thing over several days. The surface is definitely 7 boards and the 8th was for underneath. I got the pipes as tight as I could and then sort of pushed them in at the bottom so the desk doesn't wobble in the slightest now. But I also have it on carpet too, that probably helps. :)
This was also the first piece of furniture I've ever made and in hindsight, I would have had the wood cut to length at lowes first. It would have been neater. I've since build a platform bed and sofa table and have learned better planning. :)
Thanks again for your thoughts and I'm glad my instructable was useful to you.
This was also the first piece of furniture I've ever made and in hindsight, I would have had the wood cut to length at lowes first. It would have been neater. I've since build a platform bed and sofa table and have learned better planning. :)
Thanks again for your thoughts and I'm glad my instructable was useful to you.
Aug 23, 2010. 4:01 PMSilence
says:
I like this idea. I was contemplating building my own desk to my needs. Hadn't thought of building the frame from pipe stock. I'm also thinking of turning my Ikea single bed into a loft bed and putting the desk under it. This could be the seed of a wonderful project that will inevitably drive my roommates nuts :P
Aug 21, 2010. 6:30 PMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Actually the ridges really aren't a problem. They don't bother anything so far and I'm using the desk to build parts for my camera rig so I have all kinds of stuff on this desk now (i.e. tiny screws, nuts, etc.). Also if the ridges are really a concern, just use plywood or the other side of these kinds of panels (the other side is actually pretty smooth. They even make smooth panels too) but there would still be the ridges where the panels join. The only issue I guess is that I can't use my optical mouse without a mousepad but optical mice suck on some desks in general without an MP. But... I love my ridges so they shall remain as is. :)
Aug 19, 2010. 1:18 AMrouga
says:
very good idea that the result of pipe structures using very durable and cheap I like the idea good work!
Jul 22, 2010. 7:39 AMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Hahahaha Thanks! This is the angle thing I'm talking about. I wish I had one of those big ones but this one was great for my track dolly project. Have fun building your pipe desk. I imagined trying to use 2x4s or something similar to the one I found on the net but when I was in HD looking at all the wood, the paneling worked better for my needs but there are so many choices for a desktop, it would be fun to see what other folks come up with. :)
Jul 21, 2010. 4:26 PMdchall8
says:
I like the pipe frame. It seems like desks and chairs never are at the right height. Your idea makes it completely adjustable. You could make a pipe shelf in the back, too. Very nice.
Just out of curiosity, why did you not use a nice flat sheet of plywood for the top? With the slats you have dust bunny catchers. For a plywood top, you can reduce weight by picking a 1/2" sheet instead of 3/4". Then use your method of stringers underneath and around the edges to stiffen the thinner sheet. And apply Gorilla Glue liberally to the stringers when nailing them down.
Just out of curiosity, why did you not use a nice flat sheet of plywood for the top? With the slats you have dust bunny catchers. For a plywood top, you can reduce weight by picking a 1/2" sheet instead of 3/4". Then use your method of stringers underneath and around the edges to stiffen the thinner sheet. And apply Gorilla Glue liberally to the stringers when nailing them down.
Jul 21, 2010. 8:26 PMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Thanks! True about the shelf. One could make all kinds of add-ons to the frame and I think that would be fun. Plywood is ugly to me. :) I'm creating both out of function and my own joy so what I choose is what makes me happy. I don't care too much about dust bunnies, I want to look at a pretty desktop while I'm working at my pc for hours on end. :) Cheers.
Jul 21, 2010. 7:15 PMBobburt444
says:
I've been looking for a "way" to build a new computer desk, and after reading this, I really want to make one like this. This seems like the perfect kind of desk that would suit my needs. Awesome Instructable!
Jul 21, 2010. 8:22 PMThreeWestCreative (author)
says:
Thanks! I'm glad it was useful to you. :)
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