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This instructable has been moved here:
http://www.threewestcreative.com/3913/custom-plumbing-pipe-desk/
How sturdy is this using plumping pipe? I see lots of projects with Kee Lite klamps but they are out of my price range. What is the load weight of the desk?
How easy would it be to add t-fittings and attach shelves underneath?
The load on the desk given all the materials I used is fantastic. It may be even better with a solid piece of wood (my friend tells me I can get cheap butcher block counter top wood for cheap in the junk section of Ikea but I haven't looked). But since I first built this desk there are no signs of it giving in and I'm at it for hours every day and still use two very heavy CRT monitors on it.
You can find a lot of creative ways to add shelves to this thing. But to add "in-line" shelves, you'll have to plan them in the original build. Adding them after would probably require adjustments with the desk top. I've been thinking about ways to make shelves that will hang on the existing pipe.
I've got my chords hung all over the pipes underneath, it's just great. There aren't chords hanging all over the place.
Good luck with your build.
I'm thinking about adapting it into a standing desk style, and just wanted to see how stable yours was, as it will involve adding about a foot of height. I'm thinking another set of horizontal pipes to stabilize it near the bottom might not be out of order. Thoughts?
Also thinking about doing a chalkboard surface for the desk (probably painted wood). Maybe not the most computer friendly with all the dust, but I think it would look awesome and go well with the industrial feel.
So, as someone who has now built this project, I thought I might offer my experience in case it may help others.
I had just moved a small project music studio slash my design office from an artist/workshop space to an apartment, into a room that while not small per se is much, much smaller. In my old space I had my music rig set up on a huge 10'x4.5' work table. It wasn't glamorous but it was rock solid: cast iron legs, heavy slab top. But if it was mine to take, there was no way to move it and it wouldn't have fit. So, I needed a desk, but I needed pretty specific measurements and something that I could setup myself. I was chuffed when I found this.
Anyway. Here are some notes for potential builders:
* Unless I'm missing something, there's a 'bug' in your instructions: you say 7 pieces of the deck wood, which is 6 for the surface and one for the bottom braces. But you'll note in all your pictures, and to meet the measurements of the assembled frame, you need a top that is 7 pieces with an additional piece for the braces—total 8 pieces. 6 pieces of wood won't fit the frame if you use these lengths of pipe. I had to go back and get another plank (not a big deal).
* I ended up getting all the parts at Home Depot; Lowes didn't have a lot of the piping that I needed. Also, I learned, technically all these pre-cut pipes are called nipples. So when you say '10 - 1/2" nipples' your actually referring to what they call 'close nipple'. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nipple_%28plumbing%29
* By far the worst part of the project was getting the stickers and tape off the pipes. Get yourself a box of latex-free gloves. A bucket of water and the tape remover eventually gets 'em clean but it's a job.
* Well, that and the pipe joint compound—what you call 'pipe grease'—some nasty stuff if you're working without the gloves.
* My old work table was higher than 24" so initially I tried 4 x 32" lengths that I found at H.D. for the legs. I didn't take into account the height the the T-joints and 1/2" pipe nipples added. So it was taller than I expected. More significantly it was way too wobbly. So I got the 24" lengths.*see below*
* I needed the desk to be 6' long so I cut my boards before I assembled them and put them on the frame. So rather than the 2 x 36" length braces I used 2 x 30" lengths.
* I gave up on the second lengthwise brace. I couldn't work out how to get it tighten up enough so it wasn't distracting. I played a while with the order of assembly, but by the time I got the frame as you have it in the pictures here and with everything torqued in place I couldn't get the mechanics for another lengthwise bar without loosening it too much.
* As noted, it's very soft wood. If I could do it over I would use screws with wider heads, or some washers when screwing the frame to the top—the holes in the cleats are pretty wide. I had some old gloss black paint as well as the poly, and I used the un-ridged side so I have a slick-black work surface.
Frankly, it was still a little more wobbly than I was used to. I've bracketed to the wall and that has taken of it for the most part. If I get ambitious I might try to construct a similar frame but with a series of smaller pipe nipples and T-joints for the legs, all torqued to their fullest—if I feel like doing that Rubik's Cube. ;-)
Again, this was great for getting me 0 to 60 on a new work desk that doesn't look like 2x4s hastily nailed together but was wider and simpler than what I could get commercially. Thanks a lot.
This was also the first piece of furniture I've ever made and in hindsight, I would have had the wood cut to length at lowes first. It would have been neater. I've since build a platform bed and sofa table and have learned better planning. :)
Thanks again for your thoughts and I'm glad my instructable was useful to you.
Just out of curiosity, why did you not use a nice flat sheet of plywood for the top? With the slats you have dust bunny catchers. For a plywood top, you can reduce weight by picking a 1/2" sheet instead of 3/4". Then use your method of stringers underneath and around the edges to stiffen the thinner sheet. And apply Gorilla Glue liberally to the stringers when nailing them down.
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