Introduction: Custom Propane Fireplace

Make an awesome fireplace that is very custom! Feel free to change this into your desired measurements or even change the tiles to whatever you want. Have fun building!

Step 1: Materials

-5 1"x1" angle iron 4 ft long

-1 1"x1" angle iron 3 ft long

-4 1/2"x1/2" aluminum angle 4 ft long

-1-50" 1/4x1/4 by 1/8 thick angle iron

-4- 3 ft long 1 in by 1/4 in steel

4-18" x 29" 22 gauge sheet metal

2-3x5 foot 1/4 inch thick hardy board

1- Del Rio model Fp29c6 propane fire pit

1- Bag 25lbs flexbond thinset mortar

1- bag 10lbs non-sanded polyblend morter

2-cans of spray paint

30-1/2 #8 countersink screws

41"x41" of tile of your choice

Step 2: Cut Angle Iron

Cut 48" x 1" angle iron into 2 29" pieces, 4 19" pieces, and 2 39" pieces

Step 3: Make a Square With the Angle Iron

Lay 2 29" pieces parallel to each other 29" apart. lay the 2 39" pieces so it makes a 29"x 29" square with 2 5" overhangs on both sides. Then make sure the whole thing is square and make sure the overhangs are 5". Then weld all of the corners.

Step 4:

Take the 4 19" angle iron used for the legs and place them on the welded square corners. Make sure legs are square and only tack weld in case of adjustment.

Step 5: Cut Steel

Cut the 1 in by 1/2 in steel into 27 inch lengths. You need 4 of these for support of the legs.

Step 6: Weld Leg Supports

Clamp the steel pieces in between each leg and make sure they are 4" from the edge of the legs. Tack weld the steel on and make sure legs are strait. Adjust if needed and fully weld when satisfied.

Step 7: Weld Legs

Square up the legs as much as possible and weld

Step 8: Cut and Weld 4 5" Angle Iron

Cut the rest of the angle iron into 4 5" lengths and weld perpendicular to the other sticking out iron. This is used for extra support.

Step 9: Cut and Weld Support Angle Iron

Cut the 1/4 angle iron into a 40 1/2 in to support the burner. Place the burner inside the base and make sure the center of the control is on one of the sides and centered. Weld the burner in place then weld a support piece on the burner from corner to corner.

Step 10: Cut and Weld Sides On

Take the 4 22 gauge steel and cut 18" by 29" for the sides of the base. Weld 3 of the sides on being very careful not to burn through the thin metal.

Step 11: Cut a Hole for Control and Hose

On the 4th piece of sheet metal cut a whole to gain access to the controller in the middle of the metal. This hole should be 6" x 6". You can use a pair of cutting snips to cut the hole. Then cut a 2" hole at the bottom right corner for the hose.

Step 12: Make Inserts for Control Holes

Cut 2 1/4" angle iron 45 degrees on one side and 90 degrees on the other. Cut it to a size of 5 1/2" from the inside of the angle to the top. Weld together a U shape and weld into to panel.(This is for the control hole) For the hose hole cut a 2 1/2" by 1 1/8" in the corner piece out of 1/8" angle iron. Weld together and put in the corner for the gas line.

Step 13: Starting the Table Top

Cut 2 3' by 5' pieces of backer board 41" by 20 1/2". Put these pieces together and cut out a circle with 12" radius in the center of the board. I used a string and a nail to draw the circle.

Step 14: Grind Weld Marks

Grind off the welds on the top of the base so that the backer board can lay flat on the base.

Step 15: Drill Holes and Attach Top

Drill 2 3/16" holes in each of the base ends to attach to the table top. Drill 1/8" pilot holes in the top of the base. Coat the top of the base with heavy duty silicon. Lay the piece of the backer board on the base and make sure it is all square and centered. Use the #8 screws to screw into the board from the base.

Step 16: Attaching Aluminum Edges

Cut 1/2 by 1/2 angled aluminum to 41" at a 45 degree angle. 41" is the measurement of the inside of the angles. Drill holes in the aluminum 9" apart from each other. Do this with a 3/16" drill bit. Put liquid nail onto the aluminum pieces and attach to the board. Then use screws to secure these even more.

Step 17: Tile

Mix the thin set flex bond as directed. Spread the flex bond onto the board and lay the tile as desired. Let dry for 24 hours.

Step 18: Grout

Mix the non sanded grout as directed. Use a grout float to spread grout in all of the cracks. Make sure grout is smooth and even with the tile. Try to get the grout off of the tile before it drys so that it looks good.

Step 19: Finished!

You are now done. Put desired fire rock or lava rock into the pan and start using your new custom fire pit!

Comments

author
User1 (author)2017-05-30

Dang I was thinking I'd find a video at the end. You know, make a screen saver out of it.

author
GlennJ26 (author)2017-05-30

Looks fantastic! I've seen the nice pits going for over $500 at backyard/patio stores. Yours is better. You've got the skills, brother. Well done! Now I'll finally get to do something useful with my welder and iron scraps. Thanks for posting.

author
Swansong (author)2017-05-23

That looks really nice, the tile you chose looks good with the copper basin :)

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