Step 5: Bake and Wait!

Preheat your oven to 130C or 275F and put the mini in the oven on a plate for 15 minutes. Make sure it's not a plastic or metal plate because it'll either melt, catch fire or transmit too much heat to the clay. Once this is done, set the plate out to cool. Another 15 minutes should be ample time.

Sometimes my clay gets a bit burnt in the oven due to the fact that I use a small toaster oven. A bit of browning doesn't seem to be anything to worry about, but keep an eye out if you're putting a bigger mini in a smaller oven.
<p>Do I need to use a primer?</p>
<p>Could you please explain your tool to me in a little more detail?</p>
Hey there! When I made my tool, I literally took a small tree branch, cut it and sanded it to fit comfortably in my hand like a pencil. I chose pine because it's soft and easy to work with. I then drilled holes into either side using a tiny flat head screwdriver (the kind for electronics or glasses) and dropped in a medium sized sewing needle in one hole and a piece of paper clip on the other side. I put epoxy glue in the hole and on the needle/clip and let it set. I then sanded/filed down the end of the paperclip to make a wedge shape. I would take a picture of it, but I won't have access to my tools for another 8-9 months unfortunately. Good luck!
<p>i find sticking the creation on a folded sheet of tin foil to be the best method of baking polymer clay</p>
<p>i find sticking the creation on a folded sheet of tin foil to be the best method of baking polymer clay</p>
<p>Thank you so much for writing this so that its understandable and useful for a complete beginner like myself! :)</p>
<p>Wow! Great job explaining every step well! I attempted to create a mini, but the modeling clay I have has almost completely dried up. This made most of it useless, and the clay that wasn't completely dry wouldn't coalesce into a ball. I did end up making an armature, using a paper clip and a piece of copper wire. I couldn't get the copper to wrap around the paper clip nicely, so when (and if) I get better clay, I intend to replace the paper clip with another copper wire and solder them together.</p><p>This wouldn't actually be for a D&amp;D campaign, though I do DM. I run a game over the internet, which does not use minis. I just think they'd be cool to make.</p>
<p>Why not just use the Canadian Quarter as the base.</p>
I've been away a while it seems. In case you're still curious, I didn't use the quarter as a base because I find that it doesn't look 'finished'. Also, after seeing a friend of mine attempt it, I noticed that the sculpy doesn't stick rights and is brittle. this may have to do with the heat transmission.
nice job man I make a lot of <br>miniatures myself yours Instructable is inspiring
Loving this instructable! I have taken your advice and I am currently waiting on some Super Sculpey to arrive, but in the meantime I have been doing some practise pieces with cruddy dollar store, air-dry clay I had around. I am slowly better understanding the logistics to the armature and making the positions look right. I will post pictures of completed successes!
Thanks for your comment, I look forward to seeing the results!
I've been working on making minis for all of the PCs of my current campaign - 6 of us! A big undertaking, hahah. So far I have 3 fully painted; 2 more are nearly done, and one is primed. They're bigger than standard minis since I felt I needed more to work with in terms of getting details right. Bigger than that, I have a mini I made of a Warhammer character for my brother's birthday. =] I've found this Instructable really helpful; thanks! I've also been looking into tutorials on painting techniques for minis that have been invaluable since painting my Avenger on the left there, hahah.
Ack, didn't link the pictures in. Ohh well, Imageshack to the rescue! <br> <br>http://imageshack.us/a/img818/7648/firsthalf2.jpg <br>http://imageshack.us/a/img255/8981/firsthalf3.jpg <br>http://imageshack.us/a/img812/6439/firsthalf4.jpg <br>http://imageshack.us/a/img811/4716/gotrek5.jpg
I really like what you're doing here. I was scratch building D&amp;D models from DAS air drying clay in 1982. Crumbs 30 years and still doing similar things. At the time I couldn't afford the manufactured minis, so made my own. However, what I would say to you is... if you can possibly afford the best materials to work with, then you should get them. Your work is actually worth it. When you look at all the hours you've spent here, in planning, armature building, sculpting and writing the Instructible, and the entertainment value you've had from those hours... the actual cost of green stuff for the entertainment value per hour, is probably very small indeed. Great sets of dentist's tools (they're not real dentist's tools, they're steel copies of the stainless steel ones your dentist uses) are available on ebay for about &Acirc;&pound;6 UKP, that's under $10 USD. And they'll still be good for use in 30 years time. Put them on your Christmas list in any case, along with a cheap pair of magnifying glasses (search ebay). I had a go at sculpting in green stuff a couple of years ago: http://www.lgtilley.co.uk/hind.htm
Thanks for the kind words and for sharing your experience!
You have a good thing going here, keep at it! From everything I've read, you'll eventually hit a ceiling with what sculpy can do, after which you'll need to switch to the green stuff. Apparently, if you want the best details in your minis, green stuff is the way to go. I personally don't know about this myself, but your instructable is very inspiring! I think I'll have to get some sculpy of my own!
Thanks for the comment! It's actually surprising how much you can do with sculpy. Since I posted this instructable I've gotten quite a bit better and am now able to do a lot more detailed work than previously! Practice really does help! So far the only limitation I've encountered with super sculpey is the brittleness. A few of my minis have suffered some damage when dropped a few times from a table. I expect that green stuff is probably a lot more resilient and maybe I'll give it a try if I have too much money lying around for some reason :P
There is no real &quot;upper limit&quot; for details at this scale using polymer clays. Most of the Rackham Confrontation masters were done with it. The only real &quot;limit&quot; is that it needs to be baked.
Yes, but I understood that sculpy softens a tiny bit as it heats up, removing fine details. Perhaps I'm wrong on this, but it's what I remember when I last used sculpy a very long time ago.
Sorry, I know I'm late to the party, only found Instructables recently. <br><br>If you ever pick up the sculpey again, it certainly does soften up quite a bit but generally the details will not be lost or deformed. Depends on the &quot;details&quot; though, if it is a long thin unsupported nose or finger or strand of hair, for example, it might collapse...but that's one of the main reasons for the armature. Aside from complete collapse under its own weight, the details should remain intact.
These are awesome! Do know of any other types of clay that will work?<br>
I haven't tried any other clays for this application. A friend of mine tried to make minis using Fimo, but it apparently didn't turn out too great. Fimo also tends to expand when cooked which is an unwanted property when you work with small things with fine details.<br><br>&quot;Green Stuff&quot;, a sort of expoxy compound, is supposed to be the best material for making modifications to miniatures and so presumably you could use it to make an entire mini, but it's quite expensive.<br><br>I think the most cost effective material for the result is super sculpey. Hope this helps!
Greenstuff is a very popular putty but doesn't stand up to the hype with many of the more experienced users. As with all arts and crafts, your own knowledge, experience and desired end result will play a large part in how you get on with any medium. For example, greenstuff has lots of memory, making it good for organics, but bad for hard edges, weapons, electronics, etc. So, ya know, use what works for you and take all advice, mine included, with a grain of salt, most companies like to pretend they don't have any competition, but they do. &quot;)<br><br>A friendly alternative (both in terms of cost and ease of use) is Magic Sculpt. I'd highly recommend anyone start with that. There's also ApoxieSculpt, ProSculpt, the list goes on and on. <br><br>If you already have greenstuff, you can try mixing it with a putty that is also probably locally available, called Milliput, to get something a little more user friendly, easy to use, only worth doing for the details, no use in bulking out an armature.<br><br>You can get most of these putties far cheaper, especially greenstuff, if you look online, consult local forums, etc. EBay is generally good at offering at least very close to the best price online for most hobby supplies. Just make sure to only send your money to a reputable dealer, as always.
Green Stuff is VERY expensive for the quantity. Those of us who have been in Miniature Wargaming for a while learn that customizing minis is great, and Green Stuff is the best by far to do it with, but for about $20 for 2 sticks, which is enough to make maybe a single mini, then I decided to go to the modelling clay instead. <br> <br>Another idea would be to make a single mini with your clay and then make a plaster mold of it. You can then make plaster sopies of your mini en mass (I did this with Warhammer 40K Tyranid Hormagaunts and got splendid results.)
at miniwargaming they sell greenstuff for $17CA for a hundred grams
yeah, but then they kill you on shipping.. It's nearly $15US to ship to me, plus whatever it costs..
Thanks for the comments Lunius. I definitely agree about the high cost of Green Stuff. <br><br>I've actually been looking into making molds of some of my minis and just pouring in resin to make plastic minis. From what I've heard and read, silicone is ideal for this sort of thing.<br><br>Plaster sounds like it would work too, but I don't know how well details will show. I've also never actually had to have more than a single copy of a mini before I started DMing and have been a little too busy to try it myself as of yet, but I'll definitely look into plaster though, sounds cheaper! Any tips on selecting a plaster for the job?
go to youir local DIY store and tell one of the people there what you plan to use the plaster for and see if they can give you some good plaster and ideas..
this is a pdf about painting &nbsp;rpg mini characters
Any way to do this fast?<br>
wat if u have no twistie ties
After a bit of experimentation with other wires, I can say that 20+ gauge wire that you can often buy in rolls at your local dollar store will do the trick, they're also easier to use than twist ties! Thanks for asking the question, I probably wouldn't have investigated this without your comment!
no problem i was just asking<br>
or use small paperclips.. Office stores carry them for like $2 for 150.
made one of these today, took a while to get it right but i was really happy with it.<br>great instructable, thank you
Glad to hear it went well! Thanks for commenting!
Flaming sphere looks great. you have a great eye for flames
That's great sculpting for someone without any training. I was thinking of trying my hand at something like this and I was wondering if you can do it without the armature or is that necessary, is it for support?
Thanks for the kind words! I've tried making a mini without the armature and I found that it sags, especially arms and legs because the pressure from the tool is enough to push the tiny limbs out of shape.
Thanks, good to know.

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