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I started with a 4/4 thermoplastic violin case I purchased from http://www.musiciansfriend.com
The case comes lined and custom fitted for a violin. The material is a type of faux fur that is somewhat elastic. The base is styrofoam.
The lining material is glued to the styrofoam with spray adhesive and and styrofoam is glued in with hot melt glue. It takes a bit to get it started,...
Once all the old lining is removed ( I know, I know, I didn't get all the glue in this one. It was a major pain later) tape off all the aluminum e...
Start spraying the expanding foam into the case trying to stay just barely under the tape line. Once the foam expands and cures it will rise above th...
The foam tends to mound up in the middle and stay thin on the outer edge. To manage this a bit and force the expansion to the edge, I put a sheet of ...
After your cure time, you have to level out the foam. I used a 12" hacksaw blade which really worked out well. I took off all the really tall bits a...
Now it's time to fit all your stuff into this box. Lay in out and then mark around all your pieces with a marker. The magazines in these photos wi...
First things first, take the hacksaw blade and cut straight down through the foam all the way to the outer plastic shell. Don't worry about the piece...
Periodically place the items you're cutting out for into the foam. Remember, there will be a fabric liner, so don't make it super tight. The biggest...
The straps I used are 3/8" velcro which has one fuzzy side and one adhesive side. It comes in rolls and is commonly used by guys setting up comm clos...
At your local fabric store, pick out the pattern and texture that you like. It helps if the fabric is a little elastic. It helps when getting it int...
First Rule WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. Once you start fiddling with the spray adhesive and the fabric, you're gonna be 3 different kinds of sticky.
Pull up a portion of the fabric to expose the foam. I did mine one third at a time. Spray both the underside of the fabric and the foam with spray ...
Once everything is dry, it's just a matter of trimming the retention straps to the correct length. The AR-15 case was my second case. My first one w...
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This is an interesting project! One suggestion I can make is to form the cavities the same way race car drivers have their seats molded. In the case of racing seats, a large plastic bag is filled with foam beads and and a slow acting expanding foam product. The bag is placed into the seat shell and the driver sits in place as the foam expands and sets. This forms a customized shell around the driver to keep them in place.
If you were to wrap the gun tightly in plastic, or place a plastic layer at the seam in the case and inject the foam under it, placing the pieces as it set, you might be able to save yourself the job of cutting out the shapes from the foam.
Here's a video you can watch to get a better idea of what I've explained badly!
yeah thats pretty beast ill give you like 5 dollars for that you know
Your instructions are great just never used rivets need to You Tube and see. Keep up the great AR stuff God Bless You and I was on Dooms Day Preppers second season called The Day of Reckoning and appreciate your AR case Kicks Ass cannot wait to make a few.
For your sanity's sake you need to look into EVA foam (exercise mat). It is easily cut with a box cutter/hot knife/x-acto knife/razor blade and can be layered and glued. A lot less messy and I think you'll really enjoy working with it. No need to wait for the spray foam to cure. Another added bonus is that you would be able to make retention strap systems that go all the way around the item in one piece, thereby reducing tearout. Simply cut slits in every layer of foam, Run the strap through one side, all the way to the back of the last layer and back up through the slits other side.
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