Step 12: Wiring the switches
Now that you've tested your wiring and chips - it's time to start in on the switches.
POWER SWITCH
We're using the existing power switch. Only problem is - it's attached to the main circuit board. We need to cut it off in a way that leaves two screw holes - we'll using the original posts. See Picture 1 and Picture 2 for more information.
See Picture 3 for where we're making our connections. These worked best for me - it was easy to connect to an existing solder blob, but feel free to test and make your own connection. If you use the same points as I did - be careful about bridging with any other pins - you could accidentally wire your switch "On" permanently.
Your power switch should be placed in between the "+" on your battery and the "V+" on your chips.
Test your switch - if everything works well, hook it in permanently and screw it back into the cover. Don't forget the little black topper piece that we saved when dismantling - it won't work well without it.
NOTE - the original disc had a "Demo" mode - our switch will work in demo and normal power mode. The only off mode is in the middle.
MOMENTARY & REED SWITCH INFORMATION
The way I've programmed the switches (and from what I can tell is the standard way of using switches with AVR MCU's) is to detect when they're connected to ground. When you wire each switch, connect from the MCU -> Switch -> GND.
MOMENTARY SWITCH
We're wiring the original Momentary switch to preserve the original appearance and provide extra functionality. When "docked" (explained in the next section) - this button does nothing. When undocked, the button activates the "blade" animation. If you're interested, I think I've made the code simple enough to expand on - you can add your own functionality to the button if desired.
See Picture 4 for the pieces you'll need to pull back out of the original parts.
See Picture 5 for the parts in place.
One note - the piece that activates this switch is a bit tricky to get into place - since we're using the opposite side of the disc than originally designed, it can fall out. I was able to get it to work without too much trouble, but it does fall out sometimes when I'm putting the Disc back together.
REED SWITCH
The intention of the Reed Switch is to detect when the disc is on the costume - or "docked". I've also added some magnets to the stock stand that triggers the same condition. Ultimately, I plan to add some sort of metal (washers, etc) to the non-lit half of the disc to attach to Rare Earth magnets in the costume. It'll be a little while before I get around to the costume, but I'll post updates once I get the switch working.
I bent the leads of my switch and put it into a small strip of perfboard I had laying around. This is optional.
I placed my reed switch next to the battery compartment so that a magnet on the included stand would activate it. If you're just using this for a costume, you can place it anywhere.
POWER SWITCH
We're using the existing power switch. Only problem is - it's attached to the main circuit board. We need to cut it off in a way that leaves two screw holes - we'll using the original posts. See Picture 1 and Picture 2 for more information.
See Picture 3 for where we're making our connections. These worked best for me - it was easy to connect to an existing solder blob, but feel free to test and make your own connection. If you use the same points as I did - be careful about bridging with any other pins - you could accidentally wire your switch "On" permanently.
Your power switch should be placed in between the "+" on your battery and the "V+" on your chips.
Test your switch - if everything works well, hook it in permanently and screw it back into the cover. Don't forget the little black topper piece that we saved when dismantling - it won't work well without it.
NOTE - the original disc had a "Demo" mode - our switch will work in demo and normal power mode. The only off mode is in the middle.
MOMENTARY & REED SWITCH INFORMATION
The way I've programmed the switches (and from what I can tell is the standard way of using switches with AVR MCU's) is to detect when they're connected to ground. When you wire each switch, connect from the MCU -> Switch -> GND.
MOMENTARY SWITCH
We're wiring the original Momentary switch to preserve the original appearance and provide extra functionality. When "docked" (explained in the next section) - this button does nothing. When undocked, the button activates the "blade" animation. If you're interested, I think I've made the code simple enough to expand on - you can add your own functionality to the button if desired.
See Picture 4 for the pieces you'll need to pull back out of the original parts.
See Picture 5 for the parts in place.
One note - the piece that activates this switch is a bit tricky to get into place - since we're using the opposite side of the disc than originally designed, it can fall out. I was able to get it to work without too much trouble, but it does fall out sometimes when I'm putting the Disc back together.
REED SWITCH
The intention of the Reed Switch is to detect when the disc is on the costume - or "docked". I've also added some magnets to the stock stand that triggers the same condition. Ultimately, I plan to add some sort of metal (washers, etc) to the non-lit half of the disc to attach to Rare Earth magnets in the costume. It'll be a little while before I get around to the costume, but I'll post updates once I get the switch working.
I bent the leads of my switch and put it into a small strip of perfboard I had laying around. This is optional.
I placed my reed switch next to the battery compartment so that a magnet on the included stand would activate it. If you're just using this for a costume, you can place it anywhere.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpFlag this comment as:
Not NiceInappropriateSpam
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
