Here is my second Instructable on making a custom bicyclewheel with a custom spokelacing.
Actually this is the first tutorial I've made but it is the second one converted to an Instructable.

The start will be the same as in the Custom Star bikewheel Instructable but from step 4 Lacing the wheel it will be different.

I have written this instructable to my best knowledge, however no rights can be drawn from the contents off these pages.
U build and/or use the shown wheel at your own risk.
Be warned, you will during this tutorial alter some parts in such a structural way like drilling extra holes  that all warranties provided by the manufacturers will be void.

Step 1: Tools & Parts

1. Materials used:
rim: Alesa 26inch ( 22x559 ) aluminium
hub: Shimano fronthub HB-MN72
spokes: Union stainless steel 14g 268mm
nipples: Union nickel-plated brass 14g
This hub is chosen because of the large flanges, this way there is enough space between the spoke holes to drill an extra hole between them.

If you want to use a donorwheel look for one with nice large flanges and you can measure the spokelength to go and buy the 35 extra spokes with the same length + the nipples you need, the donorwheel may have any spokelayout you can find except for a radial lacing because you wouldn't be able to make the twist.

2. Tools used:
Dremel multitool
Drills 2,5mm, 4mm and 8mm
Spoke wrench Park Tool
Hand drill
Marking tool steel
center point
truingstand (or make one yourself like in the Bike Wheel Truing Station Instructable by aaron7575)
a Dremel drillingstand ( not in the picture )
<p>I won't do it, don't have patience and tools, but KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!</p>
Ha, thanks for posting the mess up as well, glad I'm not the only one who does this sometimes ;)
The holes are offset in left and right hub flange, I found it easier to make a long drill using brass rod that was a good fit in spoke hole and 1/16&quot; drill bit <br>Use drill press and everything goes real quick to mark initial hole from opposite (inside) of spoke flange then use 1/16&quot; holes to locate for 1/8&quot; drill (pretty close to 3mm spokes I used)
with spokes on one flange going on one way and on the other flange going on the opposite direction, the high tension will likely twist the hub, break the flange, or even more extremely, split the hub body in half. <br>if you're going to build wheels in radial pattern, make sure the spoke tension cancels each other. that being said, you might want to use shorter spokes.
Normally, spokes on the same side of the hub work in pairs, pulling in opposite directions. When they cross over other spokes in three places it is referred to as a three-cross pattern. Most conventional wheels are built this way.<br> <br> The way the spokes pull in pairs - one to the front and the other to the rear, on the same side, makes a stronger wheel. This is duplicated on the other side/other flange but offset slightly. A strong wheel with 32/36 spokes can be made this way.<br> <br> Building a wheel as shown here, with double the number of spokes, obtains strength by using more spokes. In this case all the spokes on one side pull in the same direction and pull against the spokes on the other side, which go in the opposite direction. It's heavier because of the number of spokes, but because of the unique pattern, makes a highly attractive wheel.<br> <br> It is also an easy pattern to lace, so it would make a good design for a first-time wheel builder.<br> <br> I am not familiar with the &quot;three cross twist snowflake&quot; pattern, but I suspect is is something like the photo that was shown and is another decorative pattern, more for show than light weight. Nice instructible!
very good..congratulations
so can you do a right twist for half and left for the other ? <br>
If I understand your question then you can't because the spokes on one side going to the left would need to cross over the spokes going to the right and then many of the holes in the rim would be already in use by the first set inthere. <br>And you couldn't make a straight wheel that way, the rim would be tilting to one side, cause you need and equal amount of tension and spokes on both sides of the wheel to keep it straight.
dchall8 --- you said: &quot;When you double the spokes, you double that drag factor. &quot; I don't believe that would be true. As the number of spokes increases, the closer they become. You now have spokes that are &quot;drafting&quot; each other as they travel around. Thus, there would be decreased drag. To take it a bit further, I there were so many spokes that the wheel center becomes a solid disc, there would be no drag from the spinning &quot;spokes&quot;. <br>Just saying.<br>
You'll be think about &quot;maybe dangerous&quot; wheel during the biking. And it is not good.
I know thats why I stated in the tutorial that you build this kind of wheel at your own risk.<br>The main goal is to make a nice looking custom wheel.
My compliments, You are doing some really great work building wheels. Have you ever built any three cross twist snowflake wheels? Keep cranking out instructibles.
I think I know what you mean by a three cross twist snowflake wheel but am not sure, could you post a picture here ? If it is what I think it is you need to inter twist the spokes and no I haven't done that ( yet ) and am not sure if I will ever do that because I like to keep the spokes strait. There are so many spokelayouts you can come up with without having to bend them that I can make a lot off Instructables before doing that. Here is a example of what I mean.
i think he might be referring to whats also known as crow's foot. i think sheldon brown links something to it in his wheel building section
This is neat, but would be unusable for a disc/drum/coaster brake, or drive application.
This looks really cool, but from an aerodynamics standpoint you are shooting yourself in the foot. There is a significant amount of drag caused by the spokes on the wheels. When you double the spokes, you double that drag factor.
You are absolutely right but............ The idea for doing these kind off wheels hasn't got much to do with aerodynamics, it's just looks that matter. Normally you wouldn't want the extra spokes weight wise anyway. Cruising down the beach speed isn't important.

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