Cutting Table for Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Cutter

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Introduction: Cutting Table for Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Cutter

Inspired by the Ible from vstrulev, I decided to make my own design for a cutting table while I was waiting for the wire to come from China to also make his design.

I have a nice Trotec Speedy 300, but I do not have the money to buy the super high end parts from Trotec.

This cutting table is very cheap, easy to make and extremely sturdy when it is in place. (it is a bit flimsy to take out)

Step 1: You Will Need

Materials:

  • A piece of 3 mm acrylic in the full with of the laser bed (74 x 16 cm)
  • Some small pieces acrylic.
  • 24 meter 2 x 15 mm aluminum

Tools:

  • Well... a lasercutter
  • A metal saw (hacksaw or bandsaw)

Step 2: Laser the Standoffs

Cut at least 6 pieces of the long standoffs from your 74 cm piece of acrylic. You could use thicker acrylic, but I only had 3 mm.

Cut at least 9 pieces of the small cross pieces. (if you use thicker acrylic, you will have to adjust the design a bit) I've made 12.

First I designed this table without the cross pieces, but the standoffs wouldn't stand up without the help of the cross pieces.

The holes in the standoffs are there to make it easier to extract the fumes when cutting.

Step 3: Cut the Aluminum

Cut 48 pieces of 47.5 cm of aluminum 2 x 15 mm strip.

I did cut them 4 at the time on my bandsaw from 6 meter stock.

The length doesn't have to be very exact.

Step 4: Put the Rack Together

Make (at least) 3 standoffs by connecting two long standoff strips with at least three (I used 4) cross pieces. (this helps them stand up)

Push the 48 aluminum strips in the three standoffs.

Don't use glue if you want to easy replace a part when it is worn down or dirty.

Pick the rack up by holding the middle standoff.

Put it in your lasercutter and move it in place until it is flat and square.

Step 5: Test It

I expected the acrylic to wear down fast, but in the testcut it behaved much better than I expected.

All in all I'm happy with my design.

Great because:

  • It can hold a great load.
  • When one or more strips are dirty, it is easy to take them out and clean them.
  • When a standoff is worn down, they are easy to remake and replace.
  • It was only about 30,- euro in materials to make this.
  • It took me little time to design and make this.
  • It looks very nice in the laser cutter
  • The fumes are extracted much better than on the original honey cone bed.

What could be better:

  • I would make slots in the standoffs to hold the cross pieces in place.
  • Cross pieces over the whole hight might make the cutting table more stable to pick up.
  • Thicker acrylic would be more sturdy.

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5 Comments

hola

quiero saber si el cabezal laser (la pieza de color rojo) lo imprimio en una 3d

tienes los archivos que me puedas compartir

muchas gracias, saludos desde colombia

Hola Iván, el cabezal no creo que pueda ser de plástico, por las temperaturas que alcanza el láser. Se ve como una pieza estándar.

@kenyer, Ivan is wondering if the red laser head of your machine is 3D printed. I guess not, so I told him that. By the way, thank you for the guide.

Dear Ivan,

I speak Dutch, English, German and Romanian, but your beautiful language is not one of my skills. So I am sorry that I am not able to answer your question.

Peter (Kenyer)

I have the same machine here at work and I made pretty much the same thing. I used 3mm Dibond instead of aluminum,mainly because that's what we have on hand.

I was inspired by the Speedy 500 as the honeycomb table for the 300 is crap and costs $500.I just used the framing of the honeycomb table and fit my own slats inside of it.If I can get my hands on some aluminum,I'll use it instead of the Dibond.

I used it a lot already and I really like how easy it is to take out and clean the individual ribs. I also made a ruler on the top now. Just a piece of U-shape anodized aluminum.