loading
Picture of Cutting Tool (Herramienta de corte)
IMG_7016.JPG

Ver también http://www.instructables.com/id/Cutting-tools-2-herramientas-de-corte-2/

Cuando empecé a hacer torneado en madera, no tardé en darme cuenta de lo importante que es tener harramientas de corte de buena calidad. Pero lo bueno cuesta. Por lo tanto, empecé a buscar alternativas, y he conseguido algunas cosas interesantes, aunque creo que esa búsqueda no acaba nunca.

Dado que desde hace más de 10 días estoy bastante resfriado (los primeros fríos me cazaron desprevenido), no puedo darme el lujo de trabajar afuera, por más que están haciendo unos días de otoño espléndidos. Así que, luego de guardar cama unos días, empecé a hacer pequeños trabajitos. Me hubiera gustado estrenar la fragua, pero creo que inevitablemente me habría afectado el humo.

Hace un tiempo tuve que cortar con la amoladora de mano un rulemán para poder extraerlo, y como yo no tiro nada a la basura, me guardé los pedazos. Mi idea es enderezar los trozos de pista, para luego soldarlos al extremo de una varilla de hierro y usarlos como herramientas de corte para el torno. Pero por el momento, me limitaré a tratar de aprovechar una de las bolitas, de la manera que explicaré a continuación.


See also http://www.instructables.com/id/Cutting-tools-2-herramientas-de-corte-2/

When I started doing wood turning, I soon realized how important it is to have tools of good quality. But the good costs. Therefore, I started looking for alternatives, and I got some interesting things, but I think that search never ends.


Because since more than 10 days I'm pretty cold (the first cold hunted me off guard), I can not afford to work outside, even though they are doing splendid autumn days. So after a few days in bed, I started doing small jobs. I would have liked to launch the forge, but I think I would have inevitably affected by the smoke.

Some time ago I had to cut with the hand grinder a ball bearing to remove it, and as I don't throw away anything, I kept the pieces. My idea is to straighten the track pieces and then weld them to the end of a rod of iron and use it as cutting tools for the lathe. But for now, I just try to take advantage of the balls, the way I will explain.



 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Measuring and drilling (midiendo y agujereando)

Picture of Measuring and drilling (midiendo y agujereando)
IMG_7021.JPG
IMG_7022.JPG
IMG_7023.JPG
IMG_7025.JPG
IMG_7027.JPG

La bolita mide casi 8 mm de diámetro. Así que hice un agujero de esa medida en una varilla de hierro. Luego avellané ambos lados del agujero, y corté con la amoladora el borde del agujero más cercano al extremo de la varilla. Con algunos martillazos logré que la bolita de acero quedara firmemente apretada dentro del agujero.

The ball gage is about 8 mm. So I made a hole of that diameter in a rod of iron. Then countersink both sides of the hole, and cut with the grinder the edge of the hole near the end of the rod. With some hammering, the steel ball was firmly pressed into the hole.


Step 2: Protegiendo la superficie (protecting the surface)

Picture of Protegiendo la superficie (protecting the surface)
IMG_7029.JPG
IMG_7032.JPG
IMG_7030.JPG

La soldadura de arco, al menos para mí, es una cosa muy sucia: todos los alrededores de la soldadura quedan salpicados de gotitas de hierro, que algunas veces se despegan fácilmente pero otras hay que sacarlos con la amoladora. Aprendí a protejer las roscas, los agujeros y demás partes cercanas a la soldadura, usando tiras de chapa de aluminio provenientes de envases de aerosol.

En este caso necesito proteger la superficie de la bolita, con excepción de las líneas de contacto con la varilla de hierro, donde irá la soldadura.


Arc welding, at least for me, is something very dirty: all around the weld are dotted with iron droplets, which sometimes come off easily but others need to be removed with the grinder. I learned to protect the threads, holes and other parts near the weld, using aluminum sheet strips from aerosol cans.

In this case I need to protect the surface of the ball, with the exception of the lines of contact with the iron rod, which will be welded.


Step 3: Soldando (welding)

Picture of Soldando (welding)
IMG_7034.JPG

Todo el mundo sabe que mis soldaduras son espantosas, y yo lo tengo perfectamente asumido. Baste agregar en mi descargo que no es nada fácil hacer una soldadura de pequeño tamaño como esta. Aun usando el electrodo más delgado que puedo conseguir, y regulando el amperaje de la soldadora, no puedo evitar hacer un verdadero enchastre. Pero con paciencia y con amoladora, y sobre todo con un poco de suerte, se puede obtener una soldadura estéticamente horrible pero funcionalmente aceptable.

Creo que todo habría sido mucho más fácil si en vez de hacer la prueba con una bolita de 8 mm lo hubiera hecho con una más grande, de 12 mm o más. Pero "es lo que hay".


Worldwide knows that my welds are horrific, and I have it fully established. Suffice to add in my defense that it is not easy to do small welds as this. Even using the electrode thinner I can get, and regulating the amperage of the welder, I can't prevent to make a real mess. But with patience and grinder, and especially with a little luck, I can get an aesthetically horrible but functionally acceptable welding.

I think it would have been much easier if instead of doing the experiment with a 8 mm pellet, I would have done it with a larger, 12 mm or more. But "it is that there is".


Step 4: Separando los siameses (Separating conjoined twins)

Picture of Separando los siameses (Separating conjoined twins)
IMG_7038.JPG
IMG_7040.JPG

Una vez resignado a que la soldadura no va a mejorar, llegó el gran momento: cortar todo por la mitad, empezando por la bolita de acero. Esta es notablemente más dura que el hierro de la varilla, aun para la amoladora.

Once resigned to the weld will not improve, the big moment arrived: cut everything in half, starting with the steel ball. This is considerably harder than iron rod, even for the grinder.

Step 5: Afilando y asentando (sharping and seating)

Picture of Afilando y asentando (sharping and seating)
IMG_7042.JPG

Emprolijé los bordes de los cortes con la amoladora de banco, especialmente los de las medias bolitas de acero. Luego, con la piedra gris de asentar al agua repasé durante un buen rato los bordes cortantes de las medias bolitas.

Tidying up the edges of the cuts with the bench grinder, especially the edges of both hemispheres. Then, with the gray seat water stone I went over for a while the cutting edges of the hemispheres.

Step 6: Probando (testing)

Picture of Probando (testing)

La herramienta funciona, pero para evaluar si es mejor o peor que los formones y gubias comprados que estuve usando hasta ahora, debo usarla durante un tiempo. Es probable que dentro de algunas semanas decida dejar de usarla. También es probable que deba hacerles un tratamiento térmico a los bordes cortantes. Si funciona satisfactoriamente, le tendré que agregar un mango largo.

Perdón por la mala calidad de las imágenes, especialmente el vídeo. En este último, por el efecto estroboscópico, el torno parece girar muy lentamente.

The tool works, but to assess whether it is better or worse than the bought chisels and gouges that I've been using until now, I must use it for a while. It is likely that within a few weeks I decide to quit. It is also likely I must make a heat treatment to cutting edges. If it works successfully, I'll have to add a long handle.

Pardon the bad quality of the images, especially the video. In this last, by the strobe effect, the lathe seems to rotate very slowly.
heelercjwww3 years ago
Cool instructable, HAve you tried silver solder instead of welding? it might work better for the small parts
rimar2000 (author)  heelercjwww3 years ago
Surely, but I don't dare... Never I did it, and I have not a teacher.
Anarx4 years ago
Nice use of scrap material's, considering your newly made forge, keep an eye out for spring steel. leaf springs coil springs etc they make some of the best chisel's i have used (for metal work though). and of course you are on the right track with using the barrings, perhaps you can use the Rase's (not sure on the spelling for that) of the barring's as well for some good high quality tool steel.

Keep up the innovative work.
rimar2000 (author)  Anarx4 years ago
Thanks for the comment, Anarx. Yes, some weeks ago I pick up from the waste a nice steel spring, it is waiting for transform into cutting tool.

I am doing an instructable about bearings cutting tool, today I must be something using them in the lathe for publish. Yes, I am using that you name rase's, I name them tracks but I don't know the correct English word.

Tux0r rimar20004 years ago
Very, very good idea, and the correct English word is; race. I might just make one of these even though I don't do wood turning
rimar2000 (author)  Tux0r4 years ago
Thanks for the comment, and too for the correction. I will edit it as soon as possible.

Last saturday I made a very good "cortafierro" (iron cutter?) using the stem of a wasted car buffer (of suspension, stay system)
Tux0r rimar20003 years ago
Oh no problem, and if you could post a picture of your iron cutter that would be nice. Now, from what I am visualizing, it seems like you made either what I call a "cold cut" or a "hot cut", the cold cut is basically a cold chisel for metal and the hot cut is a tool for cutting hot metal. I think I might have a broken shock absorber (suspension buffer) laying around here, so I might make something out of it...thats if I can make a forge that is large enough
rimar2000 (author)  Tux0r3 years ago
I added the chisel's photo in Step 8 of My Forge
Tux0r rimar20003 years ago
Oh, thank you, that looks like it would be more of a cold chisel to me. If I remember right hot cuts have two edges, like a flat ground knife.
rimar2000 (author)  Tux0r3 years ago
I think there is only one "chisel". You can see it here.
notingkool4 years ago
muy buena idea, le diste temple? El de abajo tiene razon, usa tu forja para endezar una de las pistas del ruleman. Si no queres hacer una herramienta de corte, podes hacer un cuchillo.

very good idea, do you temper it?
The one below is right, use your forge to straing one of the tracks of the bearing. If you do not want to make a cutting tool, you can make a knife.
rimar2000 (author)  notingkool4 years ago
A estas no las templé, y lo de las pistas ya lo hice y lo publiqué acá. Gracias por el comentario.
ah, buenisimo, lo hiciste rapidisimo. Por ahi puedan llegar a servir para tornear metal. saludos
rimar2000 (author)  notingkool4 years ago
Es probable, lo voy a intentar un día de estos.
jagr604 years ago
Rimar, you can use broken bearing, straighten it in your forge and than sharpen. It is very good steel.
rimar2000 (author)  jagr604 years ago
Thanks for the comment, jagr60, yesterday I did it. Today I will publish the instructable.
tom3115714 years ago
Great job! Gives me some other ideas. Thanks!
rimar2000 (author)  tom3115714 years ago
Thanks, Tom. I am doing a new instructable, maybe tomorrow I will publish it.
Phil B4 years ago
Wow! You went to a lot of work to achieve a hardened cutting edge. Can you buy hardening electrodes for an arc welder? They are used to put a hard surface on plow shares and build them up after they have been worn down by much use in the soil. With them you could cover mild steel with a few beads and grind them down to the shape you want for your cutter. It is just a thought.
rimar2000 (author)  Phil B4 years ago
Thanks, Phil!

I remember my father used that method, during 50's, but with oxyacetylene welding. The product was named Mil-Agro (milagro=miracle) and was really awesome. But after a seek last year, I can't find it nor any similar.

I asked at "La Casa del Soldador" (welder's house) and they sold me stainless steel electrodes. They are expensive, difficult to use, and I don't think are so hard as a ball bearing.

Today I feel a bit better, the day is sunny and mild, so I will try to launch my forge to straighten a broken ball bearing. Then I will post the result, obviously.

By now you've realized that my motivation is not doing something technically right, or most convenient, but just experiment and have fun. Otherwise, it would have been better to go to La Plata and buy two or three good cutting tools, they aren't so expensive.

Hope your health continues to improve. Yes, we do all this stuff for fun. And for what we learn along the way. There is no teacher like experience. I for one truly appreciate you sharing your experiences.
rimar2000 (author)  SharpyWarpy4 years ago
Thanks, SharpyWarpy. I hope may sleep al least 5 hours that night. I am doing a new instructable right now.
l8nite4 years ago
a lot of work but the reward comes in satisfaction every time you use the tool you made
rimar2000 (author)  l8nite4 years ago
Thanks, I8nite!

Well, maybe can seem a lot of work, but really went 2 hours of light work: to cut a piece of iron bar, to do a hole, some hammering, a tiny welding (the only delicate part) another cut, and then seat the edge.
brunoip4 years ago
No te cansas de hacer cosas grosas, seguí así. Saludos
rimar2000 (author)  brunoip4 years ago
Gracias Bruno, fijate lo que le contesté a Phil B. Un abrazo.