One of the most frustrating things when moving into a new apartment or house is trying to get those awkward pieces of furniture up the stairs. Box springs are the worst; they are bulky and inflexible, and it's just plain impossible to get them around some corners. Stores will sell you a pair of "split boxes" that are half as wide, but they will set you back a couple hundred bucks.
If you don't mind performing a little surgery, you can fold the box spring in half, making it much easier to move around. After rebuilding it, the box spring will still have all the structural integrity and support that it started out with. Here's what you'll need:
If you don't mind performing a little surgery, you can fold the box spring in half, making it much easier to move around. After rebuilding it, the box spring will still have all the structural integrity and support that it started out with. Here's what you'll need:
- flathead screwdriver
- Pliers
- Scissors
- Wood Saw
- Rope, cord, or twine
- Power drill/screwdriver
- Wood screws
- Some lumber that's the same thickness as your box spring's wood; 1x2's are probably good. You need enough to make four boards that span the four central crosspieces.
- Staple gun or upholstery tacks and a hammer
Step 1: Remove the staples on the long sides
Using the flathead screwdriver and pliers, remove all the staples from the underside of the box spring, along the long sides. Don't remove the staples on the short ends. Chances are, the fabric dustcover on the bottom is attached with a different, redundant set of staples from the top fabric. There are seriously a ton of staples here. Fortunately you can get the most tedious part of the job done first.
Once you're done, the fabric shouldn't be attached to the wood frame at all on both long sides.
Once you're done, the fabric shouldn't be attached to the wood frame at all on both long sides.
Step 2: Cut the dust cover and frame
Find the center of the box spring, and cut the dust cover with your scissors or knife. Tuck each half of the dust cover into the springs on either end to get it out of the way.
Moving the top fabric out of the way, saw through the wood frame on each side. Your box spring is finally flexible! If all you need is to be able to bend it around a corner, you can skip the next step.
Moving the top fabric out of the way, saw through the wood frame on each side. Your box spring is finally flexible! If all you need is to be able to bend it around a corner, you can skip the next step.
Step 3: Fold it in half
Using a doorframe or other straight fulcrum, carefully bend the box spring in half along the exact middle of the top side. Guide the top fabric to slip off the corners of the wooden frame. Once the thick steel wire is partially bent, move it against a wall and fold it the rest of the way. This is a good job for two people, to keep it from springing back and hitting someone.
Have one person hold the box spring while the second person ties it shut with rope or twine. Now you should have a nice, compact package that is easy to transport up stairs, around corners, in the back of a vehicle, etc.
Don't leave it in this state for too long, though. It's possible that the wire would lose its springiness and be warped upon reconstruction.
Have one person hold the box spring while the second person ties it shut with rope or twine. Now you should have a nice, compact package that is easy to transport up stairs, around corners, in the back of a vehicle, etc.
Don't leave it in this state for too long, though. It's possible that the wire would lose its springiness and be warped upon reconstruction.
Step 4: Reconstruct the frame
When you have the box spring in its desired location, lay it face down on the floor and push the middle down to flatten it out again. You'll notice in the pictures that I cut off the corners of the frame that were jutting out, to get past a sticky corner. This is okay since we're reinforcing those sections anyway. Stand along the bend in the wire to flatten it out as much as possible.
Cut four pieces of wood long enough to span between the middle four crossbeams. Fasten them to the crossbeams with the wood screws, adjacent to the cut rails. You'll notice that I split the wood pretty badly, but I put in enough screws that it felt secure. I couldn't find my drill bits in the moving chaos, but I should've spent a little more time looking. Always pre-drill your holes, kids!
Cut four pieces of wood long enough to span between the middle four crossbeams. Fasten them to the crossbeams with the wood screws, adjacent to the cut rails. You'll notice that I split the wood pretty badly, but I put in enough screws that it felt secure. I couldn't find my drill bits in the moving chaos, but I should've spent a little more time looking. Always pre-drill your holes, kids!
Step 5: Reattach top fabric and dust cover
Using a staple gun or upholstery tacks, fasten the top fabric and dust cover to the frame. Pull the fabric tight before fastening. You don't need to attach them separately; one staple or tack through both fabrics will do.
In retrospect, staples are the better choice because they are easier to remove if you ever need to move the box spring again. I used tacks because they were handy at the time.
Once you're finished tacking the fabric in place, you're done! Enjoy your bed!
In retrospect, staples are the better choice because they are easier to remove if you ever need to move the box spring again. I used tacks because they were handy at the time.
Once you're finished tacking the fabric in place, you're done! Enjoy your bed!
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Turned out ours was easier to cut, it was only slats and some cardboard, no springs.
We are going to use the metal bars instead of the wooden 1 X 2's when we reassemble, so when we have to move it downstairs again. We can take those off and fold it again.
What, Americans are so wimpy that one mattress isn't good enough? :-P
I used a screwdriver and pliers to remove the cover underneath. Then used a jigsaw to cut the 3 wood supports. I used Thule load straps to bend the mattress over backwards and it held just fine as we brought it upstairs. I used your idea of the metal plates, but I drilled holes and used bolts/nuts/washers instead of screws for added strength.
We recently moved into a really old house, and the queen size boxspring would not go up the stairs. We have been sleeping on the mattress on the floor for 2 weeks trying to figure out what to do.