When I first purchased my bow, it came with a lot of supplies. A full bag of goose-feathers, but most of all; A heat-wire feather-cutter. It looked self-built and a bit shoddy. Since I didn't have any information on the voltages needed to run it, I didn't try it right away and before I could get back to it, my father had thrown it out.

(I will not go into how you should mount the feathers themselves, since I don't have the know-how to do it correctly. I just moun them straight and with 120 degree spacing. It works for me.)

This is how I built my own feather-cutter that gets consistent results, every time.

You will need:

  1. A fused bench power-supply. A standard one that can output 0-40V should be plenty.
  2. Goose-feathers.
  3. A few scraps of wood.
  4. Two long bolts and four nuts and two wing-nuts (I've used six nuts as I didn't have any wing-nuts then).
  5. Wire (I used 0.8mm Stainless Steel Welding wire)
  6. Flat-nosed pliers.
  7. Side-cutters.
  8. A drill/electric screwdriver.
  9. Wood-screws suitable for your wooden scraps.
  10. Cables and alligator-clips for your power-supply.
As always when using electricity, take care and don't electrocute yourself!

I am in no way responsible for you getting electrocuted, burned, cut, etc. while following this instructable.

Step 1: Making the Base for the Cutter

Take your scrapwood and make a base approximate to the above image. The dimensions don't really matter, apart from that the groove for the nock must line up with the center of the arrow when it's placed in the v-part. The space between the two standing supports should also be able to accommodate your widest fletching with a few centimeters to spare. The height should also accommodate the width of the goosefeathers you're using ofr the fletchings. Just so that they don't catch on the bottom, or the two bolts.

Drill two holes through the bottom of the base, countersink the holes for the bolt-heads if you wish. Thread your bolts through and tighten them to the board with one nut each. Add the two remaining nuts and the wing-nuts to the top of the bolts, making sure they line up approximately with a thought line from the v-part to the nock-groove.
good job man was it a run of a nother design or something you came up with
I based it on an old design that came with the bow I bought. It was homebuilt (probably in the 80s, the bow was from that era) and didn't have any specs regarding correct voltage etc. so I never messed with it at first, and when I finally got around to it, my father had thrown it out, so I came up with this design.
Good Ible. <br>My understanding was that the feathers should come from the same wing as this gives a rotation to the arrow as the spin induced improves accuracy.. <br>
Yes, you're right, you need to use feathers that have the same handedness, left or right. The vanes themselves need to curve in the same direction. Some archers mount their vanes in a slightly helical pattern, but since I do not now a lot about that I left that out of the scope of this instructable.
Very, very cool. Nicely done and described!
Thanks :) My first Instructable
great idea!

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