You can download a 3D model of the DIY Air Hockey Table here. This will help you understand the project better. In order to view the 3D model you need to install the free application Google SketchUp or Google SketchUp Viewer.
Don't forget to check out the DIY Air Hockey Mallet instructable !
We hope this information is useful to you and start building this thing straight away!
If you've got any questions or remarks or you just appreciate this instructable, don't hesitate to comment!
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Requirements and Measurements
COMPONENTS (MEASUREMENTS ARE EXPRESSED IN MM)
Some of these measurements are standard european measurements. So if you are American these might vary a little. This means that you cannot make an exact copy of this project and need adjust the project to the materials available to you.
The drawings might clarify what materials you'll need. They show the basic construction and measurements.
Construction frame (of whitewood)
- Two long sides: L=2530 ; W=45 ; H=70 (no. 1, see this component in the drawings)
- Two short sides: L=1310 ; W=45 ; H=70 (no. 2)
- Two long sides: L=2440 ; W=20 ; H=35 (no. 3)
- Two short sides: L=1220 ; W=20 ; H=35 (no. 4)
Playing surface (of MDF)
- L=2440 ; W=1220 ; H=6 (no. 5)
Supports
- Small beams of scrap wood with heigth of 35mm (no. 6)
Plate opposite to the surface (of chipboard)
- L=2440 ; W=1220 ; H=12 (no. 7)
Air source
- Leaf blower, centrifugal blower or vacuum cleaner (no. 8)
Leaf blowers are very powerful. Their output ranges from 350 CFM to 600 CFM. We believe that getting a cheap second-hand electric leaf blower is the best option. We therefore bought a new leaf blower with adjustable output (max. output: 490 CFM). We tried out the leaf blower at the lowest speed (7000 rpm) and it worked fine. The noise produced was significantly less than at higher speeds. It should have a circular outlet. The blower cost 40 euros (about $56,-).
Air inlet
- One or two meters of tube with a diameter of about 90mm (depends on size of leaf blower outlet)
- A sheet of PVC measuring 250mm by 250mm, with hole in which the tube fits. (no. 9)
- If the tube doesn't directly fit into the hole, use a PVC muff (which does fit around the tube and in the hole)
- Two pieces of plywood measuring 250mm by 250mm (no. 10 and 11)
Goal
- Wooden beams with a length of about 400mm
- Strong piece of fabric measuring 400mm by 400mm
Puck and Mallets
TOOLS
Note: these are the tools we used, but you might find that other tools can be used for the same job as well.
- Proper tenon saw
- Jigsaw
- Regular saw
- Hole saw
- Wood glue (regular and polyurethane glue)
- Drill with adequate drillbits
- Dremel with adequate drillbits of 1mm (or 1/32)
- Sanding machine with very fine and super fine sandpaper (P180 and P1200)
- Hammer and suitable nails
- Screwdrivers and suitable screws
- Thermoplastic adhesive (hot glue)
- Duct tape
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |


















































http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/valueline-inch-435-cfm-centrifugal-inline-fan-p-2260.html
would be sufficient to supply the air?
I'm very new to all this DIY and I just built a surfboard rack successfully! Now looking for a more demanding project and this sounds like it. I'm just wondering whether using a PET laminated MDF board would create less friction and thus create a faster table? Also, I'm curious as about whether you could use some sort of plastic rail that bounces better than wood (which I imagine would dent and crack over time) and if you have any suggestions as to what to use.
I don't think laminated mdf would create a faster air hockey table, because the puck floats above the surface of the table and doesn't actually touch it.
A lot of people have suggested the use of some sort of rails along the sides. I haven't used the table thourougly and just used the bare wood. I'm not sure what material is most suitable. Perhaps strips of acrylic or aluminium would work.
If you've got any other questions, just ask. You might also find a lot of information in this comments section. Good luck!
http://www.hydroponics.net/i/131194
or maybe 2 of the following:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INLINE-DUCT-VENTILATING-EXHAUST-FAN-6-150MM-25W-METAL-/320578560668?pt=AU_Seed_Starting_Hydroponics&hash=item4aa3f8a29c#ht_2973wt_907
would 2 of those work ?
maybe one at each end of the table or something... ?
Thanks for any advice you can offer
so that would be a total of 500 CFM for the table.
Do you know what the CFM is of your leaf blower at the lower level that you use ?
I would like to know the optimal CFM for the area in your design, if you know it?
Sorry for all these questions
Very nice instructable!
I have one question. I build my own table, and all i have to do to finish it are goals and edges (rails). And there is my problem.
With whitewood the rebound of the pack is not as good as with aluminium edges of the table. But with aluminium, the whole thing becomes really loud!!
I tried with 2mm thick right angled aluminium profile. It has much better puck rebound, than whitewood, but its damn loud. The other problem with the white wood is that it gets damaged durring powerful hits.
Has anyone same better solution?
I just want to know: the MDF you used is 6mm thick, do you think that 3mm thick MDF would work fine? (3mm costs half the price where I buy timber.)
Also, are the 2440x1220 the standard measurements of a normal air hockey table or the timber sheets, or both?
Thanks!
2440x1220mm are the standard measurements of the MDF and chipboard. These dimensions are pretty close to the larger category of air hockey tables (about 2270x1270mm). I left the sheets as I bought them, because cutting them myself would lead to inaccuracies and the lumberyard would charge me extra money to cut them.
I like to hear that you're building your own table and wish you good luck! If you've got any questions along the way I'll be happy to answer them.
,Cas
You could not send to me full instructable?
Or photos on my e-mail address?
My e-mail address is egmir@mail.ru
Thanks