DIY Arduino Nebulophone Synth

I originally wanted to purchase a Nebulophone but, my El-Cheapo price range didn't like the tag. I realized that I could program my own AtMega 328 by using ArduinoISP Then I found out that if the code was Arduino compatible, why not just use the Arduino as a Nebulophone? Well it was kind of a waste of Arduino but at least I could simplify circuitry. I recently built my DoAnything Shield and could now have access to any pin I wanted.

I looked at the schematic and realized that Dr. Bleep had left plenty of things missing such as where did the stylus go and, where were the keypads and so I emailed him and after a long string of emails everything was cleared up. 

I don't have that many photos but the photos I did take explain a lot. 

Here is a video of the original updated one:

Here is my video:
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Step 1: The Bits and Pieces Needed

You Will Need:
3 Potentiometers (I used these but they aren't neccessarily the best pots I've used so I am switching them out with these.)
10cm of copper tape (You should get 11cm in case of any trouble...Really any measurement will work; you just need to make it fit your board)
1 alligator clip 
1 SPST/SPDT slide switch (Any type of switch that can move from one position to another until pused again work (Toggle, Rocker, etc.) It doesn't matter whether it is SPST or SPDT the second connection is nothing.) 
2 Pushbuttons (Tactile works nicely.)
1 5mm LED (Really any size will work. This is the Arpeggio LED)
1 LED and Photocell assembly (I got mine from here but I didn't realize that the same website had this which is much cheaper although untested. You could also make your own by bending an LED over to a photocell that can range from 10k to 200k. and then covering it with some black tubing. I'm not sure the one I had is exactly 10k to 200k but it worked.)
1 speaker and amplifier
1 Rail to Rail Op-Amp (the article said tlc2262 but I improvised with tlc2272 and it works fine. IT MUST BE A RAIL TO RAIL OP-AMP)
1 row of male headers
1 DoAnything Shield (Really it is only an don't have to use one.)
1 Piece of Large PerfBoard (This or this SHOULD work.)
3 0.1uF Capacitors
1 220uF Capacitor
1 8 pin IC Socket
1 Audio Jack (For output. You should use the size that fits your speaker and amplifier)
1 Power Supply (For the Arduino, of course. (9v battery, USB Cable, Wall Wart, etc.))
1 IR LED (Use the clear side-firing type) (I didn't add this; I don't own any other Andromeda Space Rockers or Gieskes )
1 IR PhotoTransistor (See IR LED)
1 HUGE BUNDLE OF WIRE (You will need both solid and stranded wire.)
1 Arduino
SpaceInvader74 months ago

How would one go about adding more keys? It seems there's some empty pins, but how would the code be affected?

blinkyblinky (author)  SpaceInvader71 month ago

As far as I can see (which isn't too far) i can't seem to see which pins on the Arduino are open...

how would you make a touch sensitive one with out the wire clip and possibly a midi output
blinkyblinky (author)  amill amile1 year ago
I'm not the foremost in MIDI so you will have to ask Dr. Bleep for further assistance. As for the touch sensitive, you could use a number of different things such as capacitive or even light.
can you put a board layout for eagle cad
blinkyblinky (author)  NeoRecasata1 year ago
Will try. You should try to learn Eaglecad and design it yourself as well!
how would you make a touch sensitive one with out the wire clip
could i swap out the tlc2262 with a lm324? and what exactly is rail-to-rail i cant find a search term that covers that
I am not entirely certain on this,but my instructor(I am a senior E.E.T. major,and he said a rail to rail means that it will respond to negative 5 volts to positive 5 volts,as opposed to just 0 volts to positive 5 volts.
Agh,please excuse my grammatical errors... :)
blinkyblinky (author)  redd.the.cat2 years ago ran into the same thing I did. I had pondered whether or not I should use a rail-to-rail op amp. After some classified research...aka asking Dr. Bleep himself, I came to the conclusion that a rail to rail op amp basically has an output gain very similar to the input voltage...

No, an LM324 would not work in this place. It doesn't have enough power output at 5 volts. The PICO PASO maybe but not this...sorry...

I gave a link on where to purchase a TLC2272 and it is very similar to the worked for me.
We started using the tl972 a few months ago in it but it sounds just the same.

A friend is building this and he is new to Arduino . I offered to help , but I am trying to find the main sketch as all the files appear to be separate ? Do I have to add all the files in individually before I compile the sketch?
Thanks for your help,
blinkyblinky (author)  Build_it_Bob1 year ago
The main sketch is named Nebulophone_D01.pde. Open that sketchin the Arduino IDE and the others will open along. Be sure to share his build when your friend is done.
I also wanted to mention that I seen your Nebulophone in the December issue of Nuts and Volts magazine ... very nice !
blinkyblinky (author)  Build_it_Bob1 year ago
I didn't make the Nebulophone...Dr.Bleep just made it Open Hardware so I decided to build it. On my budget.
Open source is the best teaching tool now available . I have learned more in the past few years because of the concept and all the people like yourself who take time to share using Instructables.
Many Thanks!!
Higgs Boson2 years ago
Just to make sure, the LED with the photocell assembly is connected to pin 11 on the arduino right? Also, I am assuming that c1,c2 and c4 are 0.1 uf. Is that right? And one last question, when I downloaded the file containing the code, there were several files within. I basically just copied all of them onto the IDE and compiled. There was no problem compiling, but did I do it Right?
Just open "Nebulophone_D01.pde" in the Arduino IDE and all the necessary files will open with it.
blinkyblinky (author)  Higgs Boson2 years ago
Yes. Yes. Yes. And yes.
umfan1102 years ago
now lets say you didnt want copper strips and wanted just push buttons would you just connet them all in a seris and send a third wire to the designated pins.
Just connect each "key" pin on the schematic to a button. The other side of each button would go to ground.
spystealth12 years ago
I'm slightly confused. Do I need to do anything special with my arduino before I can use the shield, or can I just load the program and plug in the shield? I think you mentioned something about an ISP. Maybe you should provide an explanation as to what that is and how to use it. Thanks.
blinkyblinky (author)  spystealth12 years ago
You take your Arduino, program it, attach the shield with all your components. Then, you play it. The guide should help.