Instructables
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Picture of DIY Bluetooth Speaker
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Meet the PartyBar™! Make a wireless speaker, loud enough to fill an entire room! With a budget less than $15, you can have your own Bluetooth speakers made from scratch materials! It's slick, stylish, descent and most of all it's compact and fits in your pocket. This is a great weekend projects for enthusiasts and audiophiles.

It's small but packs quite a punch. With the help of "35mm Neodymium Drivers" the PartyBar™ delivers a solid stereo sound. It's equipped with a 1000mAh Li-ion battery meant to last for 9 straight hours, replacing it with a 2,400 LiPo will result to a staggering 22 hours of continuous playback!

Are those ready made speakers?
A lot of people thought that this was a ready made product, well it's not. It's actually made from recycled materials such as broken speakers, radios & old modules. The project box came from my eyeglass's container :D



Techie Description:
The PartyBar™ is equipped with two outstanding Neodymium Speaker drivers. Neodymium itself is a rare-earth metal. Magnets made from neodymium are light and very powerful, making the speakers more compact and gives a higher clarity rate.

Of course good speakers must be powered by good amplifiers thanks to Nsiway's NS4263 dual 3W SMD chip, the PartyBar™ delivers an excellent audio, good enough to compete in today's market. It has a class AB amplifier with a THD rating of 0.1%. A Class AB amplifier delivers fully symmetrical wave amplification, in short the audio given off by this amplifier is pure and clear.

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Specifications:
- 1,000 mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery (9hrs Playback)
- Dual 3W (4ohms) 35mm Neodymium Drivers
- High Efficiency 2x3W Amplifier (0.1%THD)
- 15 meter Standard Bluetooth Range
- 3.5mm Auxiliary Ready
- Mini USB Charge Plug



 
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Step 1: Parts & Materials

Picture of Parts & Materials
The links are just alternatives. Read the next step and find out how I got my parts for under $15 :))

Parts & Materials:
- Stereo Bluetooth Module (Updated: $6 Cheaper)
- 2x3W Speakers (Updated: Now Priced $2.80)
- 2x3W High Efficiency SMD Amplifier
- Passive Driver (optional)
- USB Li-ion Charging Module
- 1000mAh Li-ion Battery
- Simple Sliding Switch
- 3.5mm Stereo Jack
- Eyewear Container
- Matt Black Spray Paint

Tools & Equipment:
- Cordless Drill (w/ 5mm Bit)
- Rotary Tool (w/ Flute Bit)
- Leatherman Multitool
- 40W Soldering Iron
- Hot Glue Gun
- Super Glue


Step 2: Hacking Time! - How I got my parts for free!

Picture of Hacking Time! - How I got my parts for free!
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That Is An Awesome Case! Where Did You Get It?
My dad is an eye doctor & surgeon (ophthalmologist). Since I'm a guy who uses corrective lenses, I have a huge pile of unused eye-wear containers. One day I came across this funny, Garfield case (from my grade school days). The first thing that poped-up in my mind was to make a Bluetooth speaker out of it.

Where I Got My Speaker Drivers:
Okay let's get started! To start of, I got these awesome "Speed-Boat Speaker" for a cheap price of P320 ($6.50). Of course cheap products aren't that reliable, it broke after 6 months. Since I'm a hobbyist, I prefer breaking down defective products and studying the parts instead of surrendering it to the warranty center.

If you want to buy better ones, PartsExpress.com serves a wide variety of options!

Where I Got My Amplifier:
I got my amplifier from DealExtreme (dx.com). Apparently it's a discontinued product. I got it for $1.70 on a clearance sale.

Where I Got My Bluetooth Module:
I bought my Bluetooth module from DealExtreme (dx.com). Again, my Bluetooth model was discontinued and no longer available. I got it for $6 on a clearance sale. Right now there's an alternative model but costs more than the previous one ($12).

Isn't this just a repackaged project?
No it's not! The speaker drivers inside the "boat speaker" was indeed good but to be honest, it didn't come with the best built in amplifier. It was made from bare SMD transistors and not a SMD I.C. package, it was not that effecient, and lacked power to drive off these 4 ohm speakers.

Step 3: Drilling The Holes For The Parts

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1st.) Use your pencil to mark the soon to be cut holes.
2nd.) Get your rotary tool and flute bit, cut off the plastic on where the speakers will be mounted.
3rd.) Attatch a 5mm bit to your cordless drill and bore a hole for the auxiliary input.

Step 4: Painting The Case

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Before mounting the speakers and components be sure to paint the case first. You don't want to spray paint over your drivers

Looking good on a matt black paint job! :D

Step 5: Hot Gluing The Speakers & Components

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Carefully hot glue the speaker drivers to your plastic casing. Be sure to cover all the gaps, it must be 100% airtight. If air escapes the case, the "PartyBar" would sound like crap :D

If you are concerned that the hot glue could melt because of the heat given off by the amplifier module. There's nothing to worry about since the "class AB high-efficiency amplifier" doesn't heat up that much.

Step 6: Soldering Them Together

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Solder all the modules together. This project requires a little experience in electronics. If you need help, feel free to write a comment!

To make your work easier, you can follow the block diagram above.

Step 7: Sealing The Enclosure

Picture of Sealing The Enclosure
Apply enough superglue around the edges to seal the enclosure. Be sure to cover all the gaps, it must be 100% airtight. If air escapes the case, the "PartyBar" would sound like crap :D

Step 8: You're Done!

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Enjoy your PartyBar!

Step 9: Meet The "Version 2.0" (SUPERCHARGED)

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Meet AirJam, the DIY Supercharged Bluetooth speaker. Ready your tools, we are making one from scratch! Thanks to your comments and suggestions, I was able to make a v2.0, named AirJam.

Click Here To Visit: DIY Supercharged Bluetooth Speaker (v2.0)
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SMALL SIZE, BIG SOUND:
Despite AirJam's tiny size, it has the ability to surpass its competitor's performance. Thanks to the sandwiched speaker orientation, I was able to fit 4 Full-ranged speaker drivers in one tiny enclosure (2x7x2"). A "passive radiator" was added to extend the lower bass frequencies, thus resulting to a much punchier bass. Compared to its rivals, the AirJam has 4 active drivers and one passive radiator, offering deeper bass and wider mids.

CHANGE TRACKS WIRELESSLY (works with Siri!)
Thanks to Bluetooth 4.0, AirJam can receive Bluetooth transmissions up to 30 meters! Whether you are using your laptop, tablet or phone, you can easily switch tracks wirelessly. The handsfree feature works great with Speakerphone, Skype, FaceTime and also Siri!
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Specs & Features:
- Includes Handsfree Microphone (Speakerphone Function)
- Quad 3W Fullrange Speakers (4Ω - 35mm drivers)
- Quad 3W High Efficiency Amplifier (class AB)
- Li-Po Battery 1,300mAh (20hrs Playback)
- Command Buttons (Volume/Pause//Play)
- Tested dB (via SPL): 96dB @2ft
- 30m Bluetooth Range (v4.0)
- Single Passive Radiator
- 3.5mm Auxiliary Ready
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plal75 made it!9 months ago

wanted to make something like this for long..thanks ASCAS!!

Have used parts from the link, used an acrylic perfume box as case :)

There is a small problem though..there is a background noise, quite audible when song is playing at low volume/ silence in the song..Please help!!!!

BT1.jpgBT2.jpgBT3.jpg
Why is my mobile battery charging to 6+ volts? I tried it with 2 batteries and they did the same! The funny thing is that once i disconnect the batteried the votlage keeps on rising. Whis is this?

hello,

It is possible to have a shema? I don't understand the connections with the modules you advice In dx.com

The capacitors 104 have it mate sense ? where they must trendy ?

Thank

hello,

It is possible to have a shema? I don't understand the connections with the modules you advice In dx.com

The capacitors 104 have it mate sense ? where they must trendy ?

Thank

ASCAS (author)  plal759 months ago

That's an awesome build. Have you tried connecting a 10uF Capacitor to both lines channels?

plal75 ASCAS9 months ago

Nope :( ...have used a 104 (0.1uF) as you had in your pic. Should I try a 10uF instead at each channel's input?

Thanks for your response, appreciate it :)

TheRedFez1 year ago

You show 104 capacitors in the pictures, but do not list them in the wire diagram, I'm assuming they go on the power leeds?

ASCAS (author)  TheRedFez1 year ago

Both 104 go to each channel's input. It acts as a simple low pass filter.

great idea using a glasses container!

LASOUND7 hours ago

Im not sure where to connect the power to the Bluetooth module I bought the

Bluetooth V2.0+EDR USB Drive Audio Receiver w/ 3.5mm Audio Male to Male Cable - Black . I need your help.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi! I ordered the stuff on internet, i'm waiting to it, but i'm from argentina, so i have to wait a few weeks. After start I have some questions about this project. I need help with the indicator leds, I don't understand how to connect them because there is not a schematic circuit of all. And another question, I read that there is a noise there, how can I delete it? I'm going to use a 3.7v 1500maH battery. Lot of thanks.

stubnosec3628 days ago

I'm going to help you out with this old project, sinse people are still trying to do this. You can go to stubnosec36 (nerf modder) there I have the schematics, picture closups of solderings, wiring diagrams that I have done, and suggestions on saving time and money for any laymen who wants to succeed in this build.

my cellphone batteries when connected to wall charger and when off the charger rises upwards of 6.5 volts and keeps rising when off the charge. why is this? also I have tried 2 batteries and 2 5v charger modules. cheers, steven
Sjtech17 days ago
Why does my bluetooth module switches off when i plugin inputs of amplifier???help me out .thanks
PuiG made it!3 months ago

this is mine !

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kdochow PuiG18 days ago

You getting any buzzing or extra noise?

PuiG kdochow17 days ago
When i switch it on i hear a low piiiiiiiii, but when the music start it stops, or at least i dont hear it.

What gauge wire did you use? Did you have to use any resistors? I am new to this and would love any help!

its 24 AWG and I did not use any resistor

I'm wondering if one of the following bluetooth modules would do?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Serial-RS232-TTL-HC-05-30f...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-Serial-6-Pin-Blue...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-4-Pin-Bluetooth-R...

Also, do you have any idea what the different is between 4 pins and 6 pins?

Kuffy made it!22 days ago
Nailed it (still needs cleaning do) thnx a lot!
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nrshreyas2 months ago

hey

can u please tell me the connection between the bluetooth module and the aux connector

Just solder the wires from the aux connector and then to the amp, that way you will be able to either play from the cable, or via bluetooth. The pinouts for aux jack and the amp are available on google, images section should help you fast.

Kuffy27 days ago
Hello ascas! I just bought all the components includung a 3.7v baterry and just saw that it says +5v on the amp, does it work as is? Did I buy a wrong battery?

The amp requires 3.6v - 5.5v (4.55v typical) power supply and the Bluetooth requires 1.7v - 1.9v (1.8v typical) power supply 5.3v min to 7.4v max (6.35v typical) which means this system requires TWO 3.7v batteries, not one as in this design. I can see why this build has had problems. It's important not to forget the basics of power supply. You can build the best unit and if you don't have the correct power supply it will not work properly.

hello,

I've build this speaker using the dx.com usb bluetooth module (5V), and the amp which of the pringles speacker (originally powered by 3XAAA - 1.5*3=4.5V). note: I've put a larger speacker on that.

In my build I can power the system with 14500 battery (3.7V) or by mobile phone charger (5V). In both ways (using the aux cable) the system works poperly. But when bluetooth module is used, the speaker starts doing lots of noise (since the mobile is paired - before there is almost no noise). Searching on internet I' ve found that this could be caused by a ground loop(I don't know what this is), because the system is powered only by one battery. is this the problem you where thinking about? anyway they suggest different option:

1 - use two indipendent power supply ( two battery, as you said - not in series and not in parallel, two separate circuit - am I right?). this would surely solve the problem, because I've tried to use the bluetooth reciever powered by mobile phone charger and the amp powered by the battery, and all worked just fine

2 - use a ground loop isolator

3 - use a DC to DC isolated converter

I think that 2 and 3 solution are a bit overkill for this project, isn't it?

so what would you suggest? thanks in advance for the attention

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wobbler BBQ Bee1 month ago

If it's a ground loop problem, it would
create a low mains frequency hum. Given the size of the speaker, this is
not likely to be the problem. If however it is noise you are hearing
(crackling, distortion or higher frequency noise). I suspect it might be
because when you are powering it from the mobile phone charger you are
giving the bluetooth module a higher voltage and it doesn't like being
driven by 3.7v off the battery.

You can check this out by driving
both together from the phone charger or try using the 3x non-rechargeable AAA speaker batteries or 4xAAA/AA rechargeable batteries instead
of the 3.7v 14500 battery

If the noise disappears, you know it's
the voltage being too low. There is the slight danger that you might
output too much voltage to the speaker, but I doubt it as 3x non-rechargeable aaa
batteries will often provide over 5v when new.

If that is the case
and it works fine at the higher voltage, you could try using 4xAA NiMh
batteries to run both which should give you 5v instead. These are also easier to
charge using a current limiting resistor and are cheap and cheerful,
although slightly heavier than the 14500. NiMh AAs have a much better
capacity than AAA rachargeables.

Good luck and I hope you sort it.

it is to difficult to remedy this issue, and a waste of time. I found that you cannot increase antenna power, you need resisters, capacitors and specific to each use, and capacitors attached at the Bluetooth modules pins descriptions are explicit at elecfreaks.com for the blk-md-spk-b.

Also, blue tooth plus amp, will need more juice, basically 7.4 or double battery 3.7v capacity is sufficient, still will have noise. These blue tooths are not conditioned so there will be noise.

FrederickD1 month ago

hello everyone, i'm trying to do this bluetooth speaker but i think i need a schema to wire all the components together and i don't know where i can find a bluetooth microchip, plus i don't know if a metal box is good for the sound ... :) Can someone help me !! Thanks and well done the result is great !

I am putting up a detail Bluetooth project where you'll be able to find what you need to do this project,

I'm trying to take the load off ascas sinse he has moved on to new projects.

My page shows what I did and what will work.

stubnosec3628 days ago

after looking around, and studying your setup, I found that you don't explain the Bluetooth set up because you scavenged the BT. This is the most important part of the whole setup. The Bluetooth you used has already been conditioned for frequency /gnd loop /audio caps interference. Don't show what your not using, show and name what you are using, and if it is partial recycled project then say it is, be more precise in your tutorials as to not confuse product useage involved.

You did this same Bluetooth recycle in your other speaker project and failed to explain that you did not use the blk-md-spk-b, and still said this is what's needed.

PhilipT529 days ago

Dear ASCAS,

I am a beginner in this, and I bought the parts thinking I could do this, but it turns out I have no idea where to solder things... Please help in identifying where to solder things! I don't want to put these parts to waste. I have a question too: the bluetooth module on the link does not look like yours... does it still work?

tecnocroco made it!1 month ago
Nice Instructable! I did it with a battery of 4800 mAh and using the BluetoothUSB. It works fine but there's a problem. I csn hera a "piiiii..." when the volume is low or when the music is paused. I should put a vapacitor or a resistor? There's amplifiers with more efficiency (power)?
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JohnM682 months ago

What guage wire is everyone using for their connections? Thanks!

it's about 1mm dia. I used old headphone wires for running battery from one ear to the other, including speakers. I used possibly 1mm dia coming from the mini-usb charger module's pos and neg, amp module's pos and neg, including amp's L, gnd, R speaker wires for the Bluetooth. You'll have to connect Bluetooth module to a larger Pcb then connect amp and power to that. Or tabs will break off.

ANYBODY WHO CAN MAKE A SCHEMATİC DİAGRAM ...TO GET MORE EASY TO UNDERSTAND TO THE PUBLİC...THANKS İN ADAVNCE......SPECİALLY İN BLUETOOTH RECEİVER TO AMLİFİER.. AND BE SPECİFİC TO THE CONNECTİON WHERE İT GOES..THANKS

Yes, I let ASCAS know that I will be posting my bluetooth project in my tutorial with clearer diagram.

stubnosec361 month ago

This schematic is a ruff design and unclear to the many connections of the modules and capacitors, however this idea encouraged me to pursue this bluetooth project. Thanks ASCAS. If it helps, I will setup a clearer tutorial for what I did in space.

I actually used my son's batman headphones and squeezed all the modules and the battery into it. Man is it loud, now it can be used as a headphones or a party speaker system. I was able to squeeze the BL-5C 2500 into one ear.

Note: I found that connecting the charger directly to the battery will cause a static sound if listening while charging. But, clear listening if not charging.

nrshreyas2 months ago

hello there

i am not a understanding the connection between the aux and the bluetooth module can u please help me out in this problem

brent.groff2 months ago

Is there another type of battery that I can use because the website says it's sold out?

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