If you have any interest in purchasing a kit version of this machine please click the above button and complete the form so that I can gauge the level of interest.

This instructable will show you how to construct a CNC Router that will allow you to cut 3-D shapes out of wood, plastic and aluminum using a standard hand held router.  Recently I have noticed that more and more projects on instructables have involved the use of some sort of CNC machine, be it a laser cutter, 3d printer, milling machine, etc.  I wanted to join this revolution of digital fabrication and start making my projects even better using these tools.  So about a year ago I set out to find a way to make this possible and came to conclusion that a simple 3 axis CNC router would be the best option to get things going.  I started doing some research and decided to design and build my own machine.  This instructable steps though all the parts needed to build the machine I have designed and the reasoning behind why I built the machine the way I did. It also includes an explanation of CNC technology and would be a great reference for anyone looking to learn some metal fabrication skills.  My hope is that someone might use these plans to build this router for themselves or at least draw some inspiration from my design.  I have created 2d drawings of all the parts with complete dimensions and specs, details on how to build each part, a complete parts and tools lists with prices and links,  a basic wiring diagram and an explanation of the design.         

I have designed this router to be very versatile and hope to also use this same machine as a 3-D printer and a hot wire foam cutter in the future.  This machine is constructed from rectangular steel tubing and aluminum plate and was fabricated using a small horizontal band saw, bench top drill press and flux core MIG welder.  There is no need for high precision and expensive tools to build this machine.  Using the techniques I have listed in this instructable for marking, centering, drilling and tapping anyone with the desire to build something well, will be able to complete this project.  There are no angles to cut or parts that seem impossible to get right, just straight cuts and holes to drill.  The machine bolts together and can be adjusted for square and levelness on each axis.        

For those of you who already know about CNC routers here are the specs for my machine.
 
Travel:  X-Axis 23in
               Y-Axis  13in
               Z-Axis 6in
Linear Guide: Fully Support Round Linear Rail and Mounted Bearings (20mm, 16mm, 12mm)
Linear Drive: 1/2”-10 5 Start Precision ACME Screws and DumpsterCNC Anti-Backlash Nuts
Drive Motor and Controller: Gecko G540 Controller with Gecko 280oz-in NEMA 23 Stepper Motors
Construction: Welded 1”x2” Steel Tubing and 3/8” Thick Aluminum Plate
Spindle: Bosch Colt Trim Router  
Rapid Speed:  200ipm (inches per minute)
Cutting Speed: 1/4" end mill, full width cut, 0.100" depth of cut, 50ipm, material - hardwood (This is a fairly easy cut and is probably less than half the true cutting capacity)

This video is a time lapse of the assembly of the router, an hour and half condensed into 45 seconds.


There is also a video of the very first test of this machine on the last step.  The CNC writes the classic "Hello World"
 
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Step 1: What is CNC

New Picture.bmp
Let’s start with the basics for anyone that is new to this.  CNC stands for Computer Numerical Control, which extends to many different applications but in most cases is used to describe a machine that is controlled by a computer to remove small amounts of material from a larger piece of material.  Most of these machines use a spinning bit with sharp edges to scrape away small slices of material in a very controlled fashion until the desired final shape of the material is left.  Through the use of computers very precise shapes can be cut from almost any material.

So that was really basic, let’s get to some of the specifics on my type of CNC machine.  There are many different types of CNC machines but they are most distinguishable by the type and size of material they are designed to cut.  In general if someone refers to a CNC “milling” machine they are referring to a metal cutting machine and if they say it’s a CNC "router" it means a machine made to cut wood, plastic or other soft materials.  This instructable will show you how to build a CNC router.

If you are learning about CNC and have considered building your own machine I would highly recommend taking a look at this website cncroutersource.com  There is a wealth of knowledge about designing your own CNC router and well as explanations of the different types of router designs and list of terms commonly used in CNC lingo.  When I first considered building CNC machine I was lucky enough to stumble across this site and it helped me make a lot of the basic design decisions early on.

Once you have read though all you can on the cncroutersource.com you can step up to the big leagues and join the cnczone.com forum.  Here you will find a vast amount of information and huge community of active users all doing the things you want to do for your CNC.  There is a specific section of the forum for CNC routers and many build threads have been posted that will make you drool with jealousy.  Have a question about CNC? A simple search of this forum will most likely answer any and all of the CNC questions you have.  Keep in mind though that a lot of acronyms and jargon are used on cnczone but if you have read cncroutersource you should be able to figure it out.
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tcop says: Jun 9, 2013. 3:18 PM
best ever seen
TheStudio7 says: Mar 13, 2013. 4:28 PM
Absolute GOLD instructable. LOVE it.
tennisaddict says: Dec 22, 2012. 3:00 AM
First off, THANK YOU for this Instructable! The planning and forethought you put into it has convinced me to scrap the design I had been working on, and blatantly "borrow" yours as the basis for my own!

Since work, family, and related activities place a constant demand on my time that will make it difficult to go back and make another anytime soon, I'm planning on scaling things up to 24"x36"x18" in order to facilitate some specific future projects that will require a larger working volume.

That said, other than factoring in the cost of the additional materials necessary to accomplish this, and perhaps providing some additional external bracing and support to offset the longer spans, are there any other elements that I should consider when pretty much taking your design, and scaling it up to these dimensions?
dbc1218 (author) in reply to tennisaddictDec 26, 2012. 10:13 AM
Scaling the x and y up to 36" by 24" should be fine, just make the axes on on the gantry the 24". I could see some difficulty with an 18" z axis for two reasons, clearance to the table and stiffness of the moving part on the axis. You should just consider this going forward but its not a show stopper.

If your going to have 18" of z travel then you should have at least that much if not a little more clearance from the bottom of the bit to the table. This would ensure you can actually use that full travel. This will make the gantry considerably taller than my router and therefore less stiff, so bracing should be used.

For 18" of travel your probably going to want to use at least 24" rails with the bearing spaced by 6", I would consider this the minimum. That means the router will be hanging down 18" the from the bearings. The aluminum plate I used probably wouldn't work for this. The high frequency vibration of the router could resonant in that plate and give you poor surface finishes.  I would mount the bearings to the gantry and move the rails up and down with the z axes, the rails will help stiffen up the z axes.  I'd also use steel tubing on the z axes just to keep it as stiff as possible. 

Keep us posted on your progress!
sophialevis says: Dec 19, 2012. 8:10 PM
Superb Job,That's really a great post about DIY CNC Router.I have need a lot of info about it,I am waiting your next update,Thanks.....................CNC Routers

astroboy907 says: Nov 21, 2012. 8:57 PM
How accurate is this? I am in high school and have access to CNC mills- but I want something to do work at home with. Even with just the scrap material at school I could probably build this.... Plus I have a CNC to build it with :D I do want something accurate though. Senior project, here I come!

What would be really cool to do is get like a 3d printer head on this and be able to interchange with a mill.... Why do I have to tempt myself??
dbc1218 (author) in reply to astroboy907Nov 23, 2012. 6:21 AM
The parts I have made from wood have been about +-0.003".  I have not measured spindle runout so it may be coming from that.  As long as you aren't trying to make metal parts that press fit together you should be good with the router.  
Melcher says: Sep 3, 2012. 1:58 PM
I built this machine. Not quite finished yet but almost there. I have a prolem with the linear slides that almost lockup when tightning the mounting bolts. It seems that the linear slides supplied are not to tolerance. It is the same supplier that supplied your slides. The question is did you also have this problem? I worked very accurately to the supplied drawings of this project.
dbc1218 (author) in reply to MelcherNov 18, 2012. 8:44 PM
Melcher,

Just wanted to see if you have made any progress on your build?  I'm glad someone gave this design a shot and am will to answer any questions you may have.

dbc
Melcher in reply to dbc1218Nov 19, 2012. 8:37 AM
attached some pics of my build
IMG_7423.jpgIMG_7278.JPG
dbc1218 (author) in reply to MelcherNov 19, 2012. 11:28 AM
Awesome! I like the stand too. I'm going to be building something similar pretty soon. I'm relocating the cnc to my soon to be finished basement fab lab.

Nice Job!
dbc1218 (author) in reply to MelcherSep 5, 2012. 7:26 AM
Thats Great! I'd love to see some pictures of your machine.

So your problem is when you tighten the rails to the frame the linear bearings won't move. I am assuming you have already welded some of the frame together, right? Which axis are you talking about? Does the problem still happen if you tighten one single rail to the frame and not the other for the problem axis? Did all the bearings slide freely on the rails before you installed them on the frame? If you mount two bearings together and try to slide them on a rail do they bind at all?

I ask because I want to help, because I'm glad someone has built this machine.

When I was bulding my machine I knew I might need to make adjustments to the rails to get them positioned right. I bought some of these shims, McMaster #98055A098, to put under the rails to make sure they were parallel.  After building the machine and assembling everything I was really surprised that I did not need to use any of the shims. 

Welding the frame was my biggest concern because things always warp/flex/move while welding.  That is why I got the big heavy right angle welding clamp, to try to keep everything nice and square.  
Wingloader says: Nov 12, 2012. 9:04 AM
Are you married? Your wife probably LOVES CNC machines by the front door. Hehe
jongscx says: Mar 2, 2012. 11:25 AM
Now you can create parts for another CNC machine using this CNC machine!
dbc1218 (author) in reply to jongscxMar 3, 2012. 9:29 PM
Yeah, I've thought about designing a smaller MDF machine, that would be much cheaper, and able to be completely cut using this machine. I've also considered a few ideas about how I could use this machine to make nearly complete copies of itself.
Wingloader in reply to dbc1218Nov 12, 2012. 8:59 AM
You will be responsible for SKYNET. :-)
jongscx in reply to dbc1218Mar 4, 2012. 8:09 PM
If only we could make stepper motors from MDF and plexi, we'd be all set...
diverdale says: Oct 24, 2012. 11:43 AM
Great design and really awesome writeup! I have a question though.....I see where you added the table supports but in all of the assembled pics they are not there. It looks to me like they would interfere with the X axis drive. I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious..but how do the not get in the way?

Dale
dbc1218 (author) in reply to diverdaleOct 24, 2012. 8:31 PM
The table support bars were added after I completed the very first assembly of the machine, that's why their not in all the pictures. The two square notches cut in the x axis drive nut mount allow clearance for the support bars. All the drawings are correct but the table support bars are just not in all the pictures.
UOS says: Oct 20, 2012. 2:37 AM
Well I only could say one thing: this is legen... wait for it because this CNC Instructable deserves it ... dary! LEGENDARY!!!! Thank you for spending your time to write such a great Instructable!
brigfiche says: Oct 1, 2012. 6:44 PM
wow I loved just reading your instruct-able, wish I could afford the materials to build one just like this. Your a great craftsman, great documentation.
bamelton91 says: Jul 29, 2012. 3:35 PM
With the right speed and right bit could this be used to cut 1/8 in steel?
dbc1218 (author) in reply to bamelton91Aug 1, 2012. 4:30 AM
While i think it could be done it would be completely impractical and would put a lot more wear on the router. You would have to cut painfully solw, probably so slow that you couldn't really tell the machine was moving, you would need an actual end mill, and even then the surface finish of the cut would be bad because the vibrations while cutting.

Cutting 1/8 steel plate is best done on a laser cutter, water jet, or plasma cutter. Even using a legit CNC machine for this material is impratical, the other three are by far the best choices.
imzardoz says: Jun 14, 2012. 6:02 PM
Great looking machine! I am working on a larger copy right now. Can you show the wiring for the steppers, and the limit switches. i would like to know how, and where you mounted them.

thanks-Scott
dbc1218 (author) in reply to imzardozJun 14, 2012. 8:40 PM
That Great! Its good to know someone else is giving this a shot. For wiring the steppers check out the Gecko page http://www.geckodrive.com/geckodrive-step-motor-drives/g540.html  The coils of the stepper connect to the DB9 connectors on the G540.  I wired mine with cat5 cable and db9 connectors.  I have not mounted or wired the limit switches on the machine yet, mostly because I can't decide on the best way to do this.  The machine is useable with out them but more convenient with them.  They will be wired to the screw terminals on the G540 and there are pictures in its manual showing how to do this.

I'd love to see some pictures of your build if you wouldn't mind posting them.
cfreitas says: Apr 27, 2012. 4:19 PM
Amazing project ! Congratulations ! I want to build guitars and i´m wondering if this CNC cold do the holes in the guitar body, as the cavities to the pickups, electronics and so on. Do you think this would be possible ?

I got this video that shows exactly what I need, not necessarily at this speed :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5tOYWfhuyM

The parts are a lil expensive, but I think it worths.

Im brazilian, but living in Mexico, and there are some "alternative" motor controlles around here. Do you think I could use them instead of the Gecko ones ?

Again, congratulations for your nice work, and thanks for sharing !
dbc1218 (author) in reply to cfreitasApr 28, 2012. 6:31 PM
Yes cutting the pockets like in your video is completely possible. In fact I did that very thing earlier today. My machine won't cut quite that fast but almost. Also, if you want to build guitars your probably going to need a slightly larger machine. Maybe 24"x24" you could scale up my machine to that size.

As far as the controllers I'd say used what you can get. I choose gecko because of their reputation here in the US but I'm sure there is plenty of other nice controllers from elsewhere.

Atman8 says: Apr 21, 2012. 11:01 PM
I have a question, and pardon me if it's already been answered, but how much money do you have into this machine? Did you weld the frame, and machine the metal parts yourself? I don't have access to a machine shop, so I would be looking at having a shop fab the parts for me. Anyway, I like your design. It looks great. Nice work!
dbc1218 (author) in reply to Atman8Apr 22, 2012. 3:54 PM
All of this information is in the instructable, cost is roughly $1600 in parts and another $100 in tools, plus a computer to run the machine. The main frame of the machine is welded but everything else is bolted together. I made everything myself, you don't need a machine shop, just a band saw, a drill press, welder and some patience.
mambre says: Apr 2, 2012. 2:40 AM
Can you find out the stepper motors' torque for converting G0704 mill to CNC? I want to use China made motors, would you recommend them? Thanks
dbc1218 (author) in reply to mambreApr 2, 2012. 7:36 AM
Check out G0704.com Its run by a guy with a weath of knowledge about the machine and is active on the CNCzone forums.  He suggests 570oz-in NEMA 23 stepper motors for the mill.  Thats the biggest NEMA 23 stepper I have seen and he gets them from Automation Technology Inc (formerly keling.com) I believe they are sourced form China but that company is based in the US.  My friend with this mill bought the conversion plans from the G0704 site and the steppers from automation tech.  I know he has been pleased with their performance.
mambre says: Mar 31, 2012. 12:43 PM
Which metals can you mill with your 280 oz motors? How much is the spindle's speed for milling and cutting metals?
dbc1218 (author) in reply to mambreApr 1, 2012. 1:48 PM
So far I have only cut MDF and 1/16" thick aluminum plate. This router is not really designed to do metal milling but it can cut aluminum if the set up is good. The stepper motors provide plenty of torque to cut hard material but the rigidity of the machine is not enough to truly mill metal. The bosch router I have has a speed range of 15,000 to 30,000 RPM which in most cases is to fast for cutting metal. The speed range for most metal milling machines is between 1000 and 5000 RPM.

Here is a great article about cutting aluminum on a CNC router 10 Tips for CNC Router Aluminum Cutting Success 

If you want to cut any metals other than aluminum I would suggest looking into a bench top milling machine.  My friend, who made the mounting plate jig, recently converted a G0704 mill to CNC.
mambre says: Mar 30, 2012. 12:26 PM
Hi, my name is Mambre, I am from Armenia I've read your instuctions of building a cnc router and find it very interesting and inspiring. I hope you do not mind if I use your design. I am a jeweller and I need a cnc router to make master-models from brass or wax. I have some questions and would be very grateful to you if you help me 1) how much precision did you get with your router, 0,05mm or less? 2) if I use 1605 ballscrew instead of ACME screw will I profit in torque with the same motors? 3) how much does the Z axis travel? This cnc technology is new to me and there's hardly anybody in my city to ask questions. Thank you very much in advance.
dbc1218 (author) in reply to mambreMar 30, 2012. 8:52 PM
The precision of 0.05mm(0.0002inches) is very small and not reasonable for a router like mine. Most professional CNC machines that cost $100,000 and up could probably attain that accuracy on a repeatable basis. I don't know the exact "1605 ball screw" your talking about but in general a ball screw is more efficient than an ACME because there is less friction, which would mean more torque transferred to linear force. The z axis travel is 6in (150mm). Feel free to ask as many questions as you want.
alinson says: Mar 11, 2012. 5:54 PM
I am planning on building a jack that lifts a table that is about 30 lbs. I want to implement the same design with the ACME screw with the scissor lift, but will the oldham coupler be able to withstand higher torsional stress?
dbc1218 (author) in reply to alinsonMar 12, 2012. 2:53 PM
A lovejoy coupler would probably work better for a screw jack. You don't need the anti back lash of the olds am coupler
alinson in reply to dbc1218Mar 12, 2012. 3:38 PM
Does the love joy coupler handle as much misalignment as the olds am?
dbc1218 (author) in reply to alinsonMar 17, 2012. 7:43 PM
No not as much misalignment as the oldham coupler. Are you going to use a stepper motor to lift this table?
Uptonb says: Mar 2, 2012. 4:28 PM
Congrats on being a finalist, and good luck!
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