It is an important tool in any camera bag, and a requirement in studio photography for accuracy. A Color Checker varies in price from about $65-$120 (depending on country, store, etc.)
I already own a Gretag-Macbeth Color Checker (A4) size, but unless going on a serious shoot, I avoid taking with me, because of size, and you really don't want it to get dirty. So I figured I'd get a small (wallet sized) one (X-Rite or Passport) to carry in my camera case.
Whaaaaaa.... it costs as much (or more with calibration software) as the full sized one.
I am cheap. Plus I own a full sized one. Plus I have a Pantone Color Specifier book (Used in pre-press and graphics work). And I am cheap.
So I set out to make my own!! DIY and all ........
NOTE: A color checker is an array of 24 scientifically prepared natural, chromatic, primary and gray scale colored squares in a wide range of colors. Many of the squares represent natural objects, such as human skin, foliage and blue sky. Since they exemplify the color of their counterparts and reflect light the same way in all parts of the visible spectrum, the squares will match the colors of representative sample natural objects under any illumination, and with any color reproduction process. ColorChecker Classic can also be used to create a white balance with your digital camera to guarantee precise, uniform, neutral white under any lighting condition. (Quoted from X-Rite)
Disclaimer: This 'ible is no way intended to replace or substitute the real thing, nor is it colorimetrically (is that even a word?) correct or scientifically made! I matched the colors from the Pantone book by eye, and put it together as a quick pocket reference. In a bind, it helps, but even I use the real thing when doing a shoot.
Having said that, let's go make one!
Step 1: Gather Your Parts!
So find a friend (or friend of a friend) who works in publishing, or printing, or graphics (prepress) and be nice to him/her so that they can get you the needed color swatches.
Failing that, go to a print shop and ask nicely for the 23 sample swatches. Most places will give them to you. After all, that is the purpose of these samples - to match colors to your printing needs. (the RED square was colored in with a red marker and it matched better, so don't ask!)
If your social skills are not good enough, then I can't help you. Sorry.
You will also need some black cardboard,
Some any other stiff card (black would be nice but anything works),
a cutting mat and a VERY sharp cutter,
A steel ruler,
paper glue of your choice (stick/bottle/tube)
You can use the reference in the next pictures to get the swatches or you cam match your own! Now this is where the "23" comes in. For the white piece, find the WHITEST paper you can get and cut a piece from there. Now you have 24!
Next step please --->
Step 2: Trim the Swatches
I have lined them to the pattern on the color checker. Have not put the white square in yet.
Step 3: Mark Your Black Cardboard
Draw the lines in pencil (it shows very nicely on the black card).
Have a stiff drink. Or two. (not coffee, makes you jittery)
Start cutting out the squares. Go slow and careful because you do not want to cut or shorten the strips between the colors.
The more careful you are at this stage, the better your end result will be!
If you are still calm and mellow (not drunk!) then you will have something like ....
Next step ------>
Step 4: Check Your Work and Match Size.
Match up the squares to see if you did a good job!
Step 5: Stick Down the Color Squares
I used the cutout as a template and drew the squares on the card to make it easier to place.
Keep your fingers clean (from glue) and press securely each piece into place. Alignment is not too critical as it will be covered by the frame. Just ensure that you place close enough to not leave spaces.
Almost done ........
Step 6: Assemble the Whole Thing
CAREFULLY place the frame on the glued squares, matching all the squares to ensure there are no spaces showing.
The white paper around the squares is of the same thickness as the colored squares and is intended to ensure a good bond without gaps.
I added another layer of black cardboard on the back. Makes the whole assembly sturdier and it all looks quite good in black!
Place the whole thing on a flat surface, and put a heavy book on top. Add some weight and leave overnight to completely dry. I found the drill handy and just set it there.
The book " Digital Photography MASTERCLASS by Tom Ang" is excellent reading fro novices and advanced photographers. Highly recommended.
Go to bed, we will finish tomorrow!
Step 7: Let's Clean Up
Using your steel ruler and a new fresh blade, cut the frame about 6-7 mm wide all around. Make sharp, determined cuts so you have clean lines.
Round off the corners, makes the ends sturdier and less likely to "dog ear" and destroy all your hard work.
Final step: Get a black permanent marker, and run it around the EDGE of the cardboard assembly to cover up any possible flaws.
ADMIRE your handiwork. Pat yourself on the back.
Go on to read conclusions ................
Step 8: Conclusion
It is important you understand the disclaimer at the beginning of this project. You will see that throughout, the pictures I took were somewhat inconsistent. Like I said: there is no science in my project, and I was using different cameras at different times of the day without controlling light or anything else. Some pictures were shot with sun coming through the window, others with artificial light at night, and some others with northern light. The brighter reflections are from my laptop USB keyboard lamp!
A handy little device to throw into the side of your camera bag for that odd day when you need it and don't have the proper one with.
Compare the shots with my trusty assistants and both color checkers. Pretty good Huh?????
All comments and questions welcome! As always, if you like anything here, please do not copy it, just link to it.
And if you realy enjoyed it, then rate it for me! Thanks.