loading

Wouldn't it be nice to have a cold beverage right next to you? In this project I will show you how to achieve this luxury by building a homemade cooler which decreases the temperature of your beverages down to 8 degree Celsius. Let's get started!

Step 1: Watch the Videos!

The two videos give you all the information you need to build something similar. For further reference see the following steps.

Step 2: Buy Your Parts!

Here is a list which contains the most important electronic parts for this build:

Amazon.com:
1x Arduino Nano: http://amzn.to/1M6B3we

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

1x DS18B20: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

Amazon.de:

1x Arduino Nano: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

1x DS18B20: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

Ebay:

1x Arduino Nano: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

1x DS18B20: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

Aliexpress:

1x Arduino Nano: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/QBqzZvFEQ

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/7EuRJei6u

1x DS18B20: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nAI6IImiu

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qjYfQvr3B

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Ur7EUj2Bm

Everything else (MDF, Styrofoam, brackets, hinges, bolts & nuts,.....) can be found in your next home improvement store.

Step 3: Build the Case!

Here you can find the measurement for my three layer case design. Feel free to build your own like this or get creative and change it in one way or another.

Step 4: Wire Up the Electronics!

Here you can download my Arduino Code and the schematic that I created during this project. If you build everything like it is described then there shouldn't occur any problem.

Step 5: Success!

You did it. You successfully built your own cooler.
Feel free to check out my YouTube channel for more awesome projects:

http://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab

You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ for news about upcoming projects and behind the scenes information:

https://twitter.com/GreatScottLab

https://www.facebook.com/greatscottlab

<p>Welcome. But what aboat with source of dc? How to use how much AMPERS? </p>
<p>Hi scott I have problem</p><p>Arduino code is broken. This Error log</p><p>C:\Users\I'mUserC:\Users\Koudysik\Downloads\Cooler_Sketch\Cooler_Sketch.ino:1:21: fatal error: OneWire.h: No such file or directory</p><p> #include &lt;OneWire.h&gt;</p><p> ^</p><p>compilation terminated.</p><p>exit status 1</p><p>Error compiling for board Arduino Nano.</p>
<p>New Arduino: 1.6.12 (Windows 10), Board: &quot;Arduino Nano, ATmega168&quot;</p><p>lto1.exe: internal compiler error: resolution sub id 0xde907f8f not in object file</p><p>libbacktrace could not find executable to open</p><p>Please submit a full bug report,</p><p>with preprocessed source if appropriate.</p><p>See &lt;http://gcc.gnu.org/bugs.html&gt; for instructions.</p><p>lto-wrapper: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status</p><p>c:/program files (x86)/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: lto-wrapper failed</p><p>collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status</p><p>exit status 1</p><p>Error compiling for board Arduino Nano.</p><p>Invalid library found in C:\Users\\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples: C:\Users\\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples</p><p>Invalid library found in C:\Users\\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples: C:\Users\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples</p><p>This report would have more information with</p><p>&quot;Show verbose output during compilation&quot;</p><p>option enabled in File -&gt; Preferences.</p>
<p>cool project:<br>I am surprised that it takes so long to cool your device, so a couple of quick suggestions/questions.<br></p><p>Surely it makes sense to make the fridge top opening as cold air falls and you can best guarantee the seals of the non-opening faces and joint (basic chest freezer principle). It would also surely make sense then to place the peltier system in the opening door at the top, as hot air rises and cold air falls. I would also presume it make sense to paint the alluminium plate on the inside of the fridge black and or have a larger surface area so that it can absorb more heat from inside the fridge more quickly. Also using extruded polystyrene foam as used on construction sites to insulate floors would be more effective then standard ball foam, Often easy to get from a construction site as they throw away off cuts.<br></p><p>Final comment is that the real inefficiency of this must surely be the aluminium spacer blocks reducing the heat transfer to the inside of the fridge and the small air holes through the foam reducing the air flow over the heatsink at the back. Understandably these are needed because of the thinness of the Peltier plate and the thickness of the foam insulation. So why not use a water cooling block and small induction pump to move the heat through pipes, may be much more efficient. Just a thought, love to know your response</p>
<p>cool project:<br>I am surprised that it takes so long to cool your device, so a couple of quick suggestions/questions.<br></p><p>Surely it makes sense to make the fridge top opening as cold air falls and you can best guarantee the seals of the non-opening faces and joint (basic chest freezer principle). It would also surely make sense then to place the peltier system in the opening door at the top, as hot air rises and cold air falls. I would also presume it make sense to paint the alluminium plate on the inside of the fridge black and or have a larger surface area so that it can absorb more heat from inside the fridge more quickly. Also using extruded polystyrene foam as used on construction sites to insulate floors would be more effective then standard ball foam, Often easy to get from a construction site as they throw away off cuts.<br></p><p>Final comment is that the real inefficiency of this must surely be the aluminium spacer blocks reducing the heat transfer to the inside of the fridge and the small air holes through the foam reducing the air flow over the heatsink at the back. Understandably these are needed because of the thinness of the Peltier plate and the thickness of the foam insulation. So why not use a water cooling block and small induction pump to move the heat through pipes, may be much more efficient. Just a thought, love to know your response</p>
<p>if i dont use the 4.7 k resistor and use a 0.12k resistor what will hapend?</p>
the <a href="http://www.amedrefrigeration.com/" rel="nofollow">cooler</a> down to 8 degree, not -8
I find it hard to believe 2 peltiers will cool down to -8 C....really?
<p>Who said -8 C?</p>
Sorry thats what it said on the facebook link
<p>Just as an FYI to your previous comment I just today used a peltier (TEC1 12706 I believe) and a serious heatsink/fan combination and managed to reach -30C on the surface of the peltier. I don't know how easily that is to fill a larger space though. :)</p>
<p>I think he said 8, not negative 8</p>
<p>Can<br>this project be solar powered? Maybe a little bigger for storing more than a<br>beer... how big do you think it could be using a 160w solar panel to keep it at<br>a 10 to 5 degrees centigrade?</p>
<p>I get an error message when I verify your sketch:</p><p>Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 7), Board: &quot;Arduino Nano, ATmega328&quot;<br><br>Build options changed, rebuilding all<br><br>Cooler_Sketch.ino:1:21: fatal error: OneWire.h: No such file or directory<br>compilation terminated.<br>Error compiling.</p><p>Am I missing something here? I'm looking forward to adding this to my current cooler fridge project.</p>
<p>Okay found what I was missing in another instructable. I needed to <br>download the OneWire and DallasTemperature libraries and add them to the<br> Arduino library folder. Also noticed that you left off the 4.7k <br>resistor in your list of items.</p>
<p>may i ask where to find them?</p>
<p>https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Arduino-Thermometer-With-DS18B20/</p>
<p>looks like your airflow to the heat sinks is seriously restricted... That is to say, you're trying to remove air from a box that has no place for air to get into it. I guarantee you that if you let more air in there your beer will cool down much faster!</p>
<p>I agree... airflow is very restricted. I'm surprised it worked at all. I think he should taper the Styrofoam around all sides of the fans to let the air move. </p>
<p>hi mask.. i want to make air conditioning using the same idea..any suggestions.? plz.!</p>
<p>I don't know, this isn't my project. Ask <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/GreatScottLab" style="">GreatScottLab</a> :)</p>
<p>what is the least temperature we can get for cooling from your project.?</p>
<p>It seems to me that the airflow thru the heatsinks is severely restricted, surrounded by styrofoam with only a few holes. I suggest carving a channel in the styrofoam (but not all the way down to the cold aluminum), preferably vertical to take advantage of the natural tendency of warm air to rise.</p><p>Maybe it wold also help to have the door on top, so the cold air does not spill when the door is opened.</p>
<p>Great idea I have built a large version of this with temperature control using 1 brew container full of water with a heat belt and 2 pielter units mounted in the body of the box to cool and enough room for another brew container with the magic brew in it. This unit lets me control brewing temp with a +- of 2 degrees keeps the brew cool in summer and warm in winter it's set at 22 degrees. It is all powered by a 180W 12 volt power supply and it's been running for about 12 months now </p>
You should do an instructable on that brewing project!
Check out my idea...
<p>The fan inside will cause more harm than benefit. exhaust fans should be on top. You can definetly improve the design but the price will also increase so you will end up having an overpriced and terribly constructed mini fridge which will cost you more than commercially availble ones.</p>
<p>My only thought is that heat rises ... might it be better to flip it top to bottom?</p>
<p>What would be the efficiency value if you also factored in putting that heat to good use and heating water (storing in thermos) for washing hands etc? I mean would it be an efficient way to produce cold and heat simultaneously? </p>
<p>keeping your bagels warm :P</p>
<p>Hi, just to let you know, the links for AliExpress you provided are all the same and leads to &quot;bootloader Nano 3.0&quot; something ...<br><br>Good instructable, thanks for sharing ! :)</p>
<p>Thanks, I fixed it. </p>
<p>A majorly cool, I know bad pun, idea and so useful. I had thought about using peltier units to build a cold trap for freeze drying. Decided after a bit of mental gyrations that it wouldn't work, too many units and way too much current needed.</p>
<p>Pretty Cool! Actually very cool! Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>That looks really great! I had planed to make one in the hot summer, but.. you know the winter is almost coming, and I didn't seed my diy cooler yet. :)</p>
<p>A great idea and a very entertaining video. Thank you! </p>
<p>This is a clever idea. Really anything can be made into a cooler.</p>

About This Instructable

56,860views

517favorites

License:

Bio: Awesome Electronics Tutorials, Projects and How To´s
More by GreatScottLab:DIY Arduino Soldering Station Make Your Own GPS SMS Security Tracking System DIY Portable LED Panel 
Add instructable to: