Step 10: Rabbet the Frame

If the wood you acquired doesn't already have one, rabbet off what will be the inside bottom corner of the board. The rabbet should go into the width of the board 1/4" and it should be 1/8" deeper than the combined thickness of the mounting board, picture, matt board and glass (1/4" in my case). If using a straight board, make sure to put the rabbet on the least attractive side of the board.
<p>I ended up doing something similar, except I had a few more tools at my disposal. I used a table saw and miter gauge to make the sides out of oak, and then used a router table to shape the edges. I also used a band clamp for the glue-up rather than gluing each corner individually, although I can see how that method might be preferable for such a large frame.</p><p>I made a full writeup here: http://did-it-myself.com/how-to-make-a-picture-frame/</p>
<p>you could always make mitered half lap joints at the corners and glue those instead of using fasteners. Slightly more work but it's visually appealing and very strong.</p>
<p>You haven't defined the meaning of &quot;FOD&quot;.</p>
Another alternative that may turn out to be most cost efficient is to purchase a custom frame online. A site like www.CustomFrameSolutions.com offer near wholesale prices on solid wood custom frames (i.e. starting at $0.29 an inch). Cost varies by moulding style and width. They chop, route, and wedge your custom sized frame and FedEx it free the next day. Make you own frames if you enjoy doing it, not if your sole purpose is to save money. Once you factor the cost of materials, storage, tools, waste, your time, and the occasional goof up; the cost is actually quite high.
www.CustomFrameSolutions.com is indeed a good source for the frame. However that is all you get. You still need to get and cut the matt board, get and cut the glass/plexiglass, get and cut a backing, mount the artwork to a backing and mount glass, artwork, and backing into the frame itself. In other words it saves you from having to do steps 10 through 13. The materials for the frame was the cheapest of the materials used in this Instructable. The cost of the wood was about $8, another $1 for the hardware to put the frame together and $8 for a couple cans of paint for a total of $17. At $0.29 an inch a frame of this same size would cost $31.32 according to www.CustomFrameSolutions.com's calculator. Of course the variety of frame types available at www.CustomFrameSolutions.com far exceeds what I have available at my local hardware store which is a factor. Fancier molding is also more expensive for the DIY projects. However, if you are making a simple frame for a large artwork with a matt and don't have to buy a lot of the tools I still maintain that it is still cheaper to DIY.
<p>If you can rabbit, then there are tons of choices. If you cannot rabbit, you can buy wood strips or make them and glue/ nail them in being careful your nails dont go through the other side. </p>
<p>I know the original comment was 8 years ago. I just got done making a cheap 8x10 frame as a test and then 2 16x20's with elaborate designes in them. I am ignoring the cheap 8x10 that I made which cost only $5 in materials and adding everything into the two frames that I wanted to make. On the website mentioned, the total cost would be $138 for both frames plus shipping. This is what I bought to make everything that I did not already have, which was almost everything. Nail gun-$16 Bard Nails- $3 Lumber $15 Miter Saw $75 off cragslist, Sandpaper-$3 2 coner vices $14 at Lowes Wood Glue $5 Wood Filler $5 Stain $8 Hanging Hardware $1 So $138 from the website and $145 from various stores. Not only that, other than lumber I have enough &quot;stuff&quot; to make at least 20 more frames. And the tools, which made up the bulk of it ($105) I should have for a long time. This is not to mention the mat and backing, another $70 at customframes, where I spent $10. </p><p>Now let us look at time involved. The first one took me about 20 hours to do. The next one about 2 hours to do. The last one about an hour and a half, but they also got better as they went. </p><p>What is priceless though, is the story behind it. If someone says, wow, nice picture frame you would say yeah I got it at customframes.com. I can say, I made that and saved $75 over customframes. I don't know about you, but I don't make $35 an hour, just $12. </p><p>So in summary, 1 Frame from customframes, about 30 minutes of time, cost is about $100 per frame (16x20) with mat and backing. 1 Frame that I make costs $20 in about two hours of my time, maybe three by the time I pick out the lumber, and best of all, it has a story behind it.</p>
<p>I am trying to frame a very large and odd shaped item, so I'm looking at $100 minimum for the frame alone. Even if I have to buy some of the tools I bet this is the economical choice for me. </p><p>That said, if I do go through with this I will probably get a mat professionally cut. Many places that sell mats will cut them for very little (six dollars maybe), and I have shaky hands. A homemade frame that's simple and has an imperfection or two is something to be proud of, but a crooked mat will drive me crazy. </p>
<p>uttarakhand fram</p>
This post goes back a while, but I still think it is relevant. If considering purchasing custom picture frames online, there are in fact many online options available. Three of the best (my opinion) online custom frame shops are: <br>1. The Picture Frame Guys (www.pictureframeguys.com) | Located in Washington State <br>2. American Frame (www.americanframe.com) | Located in Ohio <br>3. Graphik Dimentions (www.pictureframes.com) | Located in South Carolina. <br> <br>Graphik Dimentions has been around the longest. American Frame has the best selection I thing. And the Picture Frame Guys has a killer website; the easiest of the 3 to use.
Framing is the perfect occasion to GO METRIC. Millimeters rule. Don't believe it? Try reading fractions of an inch off of a ruler. Good luck. I've seen clerks in a framing shop get it wrong. Inches are completely unsuited for precision measurements. <br>
Cool frame work! At this point in the process I like to glue a sheet of paper across the back of the frame to help prevent dust from finding it's way in.
Please--the term is &quot;rabbet.&quot; You'd normally do this with a dado cutter.&nbsp;
You can help keep the metal straight edge from moving around (and messing up your cut!) by fastening squares of&nbsp;coarse emory cloth (cloth sandpaper) to the straightedge's bottom with some double stick or 3M ATG tape. If it's a long straightedge, tape it and the matt board to be cut to the work surface with some blue masking tape. It takes a couple of extra minutes, but saves messing up a $10 piece of matting with a croked cut. <br /> <br /> And believe me you WILL&nbsp;notice that goof every time you look at the picture. <br /> ;-)
I concur with longouyang. I'm going to try and copy/paste to notepad and clean it up to read. sad day :/
"Rabbit" is a small furry animal. When you're writing instructions like this, it's important to spell words like 'rabbet' correctly.
How'd you do this rabbit cut? Router? Table saw?
I used a table saw but use what ever you are most comfortable using.
You've given very clear directions, and it's nice to see the awknowledgement that something should be done to protect the image from the acid in the framing materials -- but the acid free paper used is hardly going to do anything against the high acidity materials used here. A fully protected image should have a 100% acid free mat, tape and backing (both the backing paper and the backing board), plus a metal acid free tape lining along the frame interior to prevent the acid in the wood from seeping into the image. I know you didn't claim it would last forever, I'm just pointing it out so people are aware. (if you did want it to last forever, you'd have to add uv protective glass). I also think it's pertinant to mention that anyone with a work of value shouldn't use this method b/c there's glue used on the picture. Acid-free or not, the moment any adhesive touches an image (with the possible exception of archival quality linen tape, which is fully removable) you've decreased the image's value. You don't mention how much the materials cost -- but if it's anything over $130, you've paid more than you could have custom framed the image shown for -- with better materials and higher quality (I say that b/c personally, I'd have to buy a lot of the tools to complete the project as instructed).
My thought is if you really have something that needs to last forever or of value, you should have it professionally framed anyway. The acid free materials I used here are just to keep the picture looking nicer for longer. In this case, I still have the original digital version of the pictures so I can make another print should I need to. I'm also not selling these prints, just hanging them on my wall. I recommend professional framing if you plan on selling the works.<br/><br/>I'll update the introduction to reflect that this method for framing is primarily for works that are nice enough to hang, doesn't fit in an off the shelf frame and not necessarily nice or valuable enough to justify a professional framing. If your work does not meet these criteria you are better off going another route.<br/><br/>As for cost, here is a summary (I'll update the materials list later when I'm not as swamped and have time to research the costs, it has been a very long time) . <br/><br/><strong>Tools:</strong><br/>NOTE: I have made many frames (and plan on making many more) so the cost of the tools is amortize. I also had everything except the matt cutter already so for me the tool cost is negligible. The cost of the tools pay for themselves after making two to three frames (less if you already have a lot of the tools like I did).<br/><br/>In total I estimate the tools cost me around $80. <br/><br/><strong>Materials</strong><br/>Total cost for the materials is around $50 with the plexiglass being the largest overall cost. However, this $50 provided enough to make 2 frames.<br/><br/>If you are only planning on making one frame, it is more cost effective to have something professionally framed. If you plan on making 3 or more frames and the other criteria mentioned above have been met it is better to DIY.<br/><br/>
My daughter's 14, and draws and paints beautifully. I have had her drawings framed when I could, but it's very expensive. Your directions are very clear, and I'm going to attempt to do this. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much!
i've been thinking about making my own frames for a while - now i don't have any excuse. thanks!

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