Step 10: Rabbet the Frame

If the wood you acquired doesn't already have one, rabbet off what will be the inside bottom corner of the board. The rabbet should go into the width of the board 1/4" and it should be 1/8" deeper than the combined thickness of the mounting board, picture, matt board and glass (1/4" in my case). If using a straight board, make sure to put the rabbet on the least attractive side of the board.
<p>I ended up doing something similar, except I had a few more tools at my disposal. I used a table saw and miter gauge to make the sides out of oak, and then used a router table to shape the edges. I also used a band clamp for the glue-up rather than gluing each corner individually, although I can see how that method might be preferable for such a large frame.</p><p>I made a full writeup here: http://did-it-myself.com/how-to-make-a-picture-frame/</p>
<p>you could always make mitered half lap joints at the corners and glue those instead of using fasteners. Slightly more work but it's visually appealing and very strong.</p>
<p>You haven't defined the meaning of &quot;FOD&quot;.</p>
<p>uttarakhand fram</p>
Another alternative that may turn out to be most cost efficient is to purchase a custom frame online. A site like www.CustomFrameSolutions.com offer near wholesale prices on solid wood custom frames (i.e. starting at $0.29 an inch). Cost varies by moulding style and width. They chop, route, and wedge your custom sized frame and FedEx it free the next day. Make you own frames if you enjoy doing it, not if your sole purpose is to save money. Once you factor the cost of materials, storage, tools, waste, your time, and the occasional goof up; the cost is actually quite high.
<p>I am trying to frame a very large and odd shaped item, so I'm looking at $100 minimum for the frame alone. Even if I have to buy some of the tools I bet this is the economical choice for me. </p><p>That said, if I do go through with this I will probably get a mat professionally cut. Many places that sell mats will cut them for very little (six dollars maybe), and I have shaky hands. A homemade frame that's simple and has an imperfection or two is something to be proud of, but a crooked mat will drive me crazy. </p>
Framing is the perfect occasion to GO METRIC. Millimeters rule. Don't believe it? Try reading fractions of an inch off of a ruler. Good luck. I've seen clerks in a framing shop get it wrong. Inches are completely unsuited for precision measurements. <br>
Cool frame work! At this point in the process I like to glue a sheet of paper across the back of the frame to help prevent dust from finding it's way in.
Please--the term is &quot;rabbet.&quot; You'd normally do this with a dado cutter.&nbsp;
You can help keep the metal straight edge from moving around (and messing up your cut!) by fastening squares of&nbsp;coarse emory cloth (cloth sandpaper) to the straightedge's bottom with some double stick or 3M ATG tape. If it's a long straightedge, tape it and the matt board to be cut to the work surface with some blue masking tape. It takes a couple of extra minutes, but saves messing up a $10 piece of matting with a croked cut. <br /> <br /> And believe me you WILL&nbsp;notice that goof every time you look at the picture. <br /> ;-)
I concur with longouyang. I'm going to try and copy/paste to notepad and clean it up to read. sad day :/
"Rabbit" is a small furry animal. When you're writing instructions like this, it's important to spell words like 'rabbet' correctly.
How'd you do this rabbit cut? Router? Table saw?
I used a table saw but use what ever you are most comfortable using.
You've given very clear directions, and it's nice to see the awknowledgement that something should be done to protect the image from the acid in the framing materials -- but the acid free paper used is hardly going to do anything against the high acidity materials used here. A fully protected image should have a 100% acid free mat, tape and backing (both the backing paper and the backing board), plus a metal acid free tape lining along the frame interior to prevent the acid in the wood from seeping into the image. I know you didn't claim it would last forever, I'm just pointing it out so people are aware. (if you did want it to last forever, you'd have to add uv protective glass). I also think it's pertinant to mention that anyone with a work of value shouldn't use this method b/c there's glue used on the picture. Acid-free or not, the moment any adhesive touches an image (with the possible exception of archival quality linen tape, which is fully removable) you've decreased the image's value. You don't mention how much the materials cost -- but if it's anything over $130, you've paid more than you could have custom framed the image shown for -- with better materials and higher quality (I say that b/c personally, I'd have to buy a lot of the tools to complete the project as instructed).
My daughter's 14, and draws and paints beautifully. I have had her drawings framed when I could, but it's very expensive. Your directions are very clear, and I'm going to attempt to do this. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much!
i've been thinking about making my own frames for a while - now i don't have any excuse. thanks!

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