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Step 7Cut the Matt Center
This step is perhaps the most nerve racking because if you make a mistake you have to get a whole new board. The following instructions assume you have an angled matt cutter. Following that is a description of how one might do this with a board and box cutters.
Place the matt board face down on some scrap matt board, scrap chip board or something else to protect your work surface.
Scribe a line the matt actual thickness from all four edges. In this example, the matt's actual thickness is 2 1/4". As with making the marks to position the picture, this is easier if a scribe is used, but it can be accomplished with a straight edge and a ruler.
The next couple of steps are those for the specific matt cutting tool I have. Read the instructions for your tool and follow those if different.
Place a straight edge on the outside of the line. Position the tool so that that the center mark lines up with the line perpendicular to the edge of the straight edge. Plunge the knife into the board and pull it along the straight edge until the center mark lines up with the other perpendicular line. Repeat for the other three lines. Be very careful that the straight edge does not move while you are cutting the matt. If possible, clamp the straightedge down.
I can't stress enough that the straight edge must not move while cutting. While making this tutorial I got sloppy and I messed up the first one. I actually messed up the second one a little as well but not as badly so I'll use it.
The alternate method for cutting the matt if you don't get a tool will require a straight edge with a 45 degree angle and a long box knife. To create the straight edge, use a table saw to true up one side of a board. Tilt the saw blade to 45 degrees and trim off the second side. To cut the matt, follow the instructions above to mark the lines. Lay the straight edge on the outside of the line with the 45 degree slope toward the inside of the matt board. Adjust the box cutter so it is longer than the width of your straight edge and cut the matt. This method is much more prone to error but it will work.
Place the matt board face down on some scrap matt board, scrap chip board or something else to protect your work surface.
Scribe a line the matt actual thickness from all four edges. In this example, the matt's actual thickness is 2 1/4". As with making the marks to position the picture, this is easier if a scribe is used, but it can be accomplished with a straight edge and a ruler.
The next couple of steps are those for the specific matt cutting tool I have. Read the instructions for your tool and follow those if different.
Place a straight edge on the outside of the line. Position the tool so that that the center mark lines up with the line perpendicular to the edge of the straight edge. Plunge the knife into the board and pull it along the straight edge until the center mark lines up with the other perpendicular line. Repeat for the other three lines. Be very careful that the straight edge does not move while you are cutting the matt. If possible, clamp the straightedge down.
I can't stress enough that the straight edge must not move while cutting. While making this tutorial I got sloppy and I messed up the first one. I actually messed up the second one a little as well but not as badly so I'll use it.
The alternate method for cutting the matt if you don't get a tool will require a straight edge with a 45 degree angle and a long box knife. To create the straight edge, use a table saw to true up one side of a board. Tilt the saw blade to 45 degrees and trim off the second side. To cut the matt, follow the instructions above to mark the lines. Lay the straight edge on the outside of the line with the 45 degree slope toward the inside of the matt board. Adjust the box cutter so it is longer than the width of your straight edge and cut the matt. This method is much more prone to error but it will work.
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And believe me you WILL notice that goof every time you look at the picture.
;-)