Introduction: DIY Dremel Flex Shaft Stand
I saw a Dremel stand on Amazon that allows you to hang your Dremel so it is easier to use the flex shaft attachement. I looked it over and said what I'm sure is the battle cry of many of my fellow ible-ites..."I can make that!!!" So here's how I did it.
Step 1: Background/Disclaimer/Whoops!!!
Just to clarify I originally meant for this piece to be easily broken down. The base was to remain in place and the pole was supposed to be removable. However, during the course of the project I suffered a brief spell of goal amnesia (A.K.A. a brain fart of magnitude 10) and ended up with a permanent installation. In my case this is no big deal, but I will try to note what you could do differently in various steps in order to make this a temporary install. In case you or your loved one would find a permanently mounted stand unsightly or inconvenient.
Step 2: Materials
- A hook with a threaded base and nuts that fit it.
- A base. I recommend using a small pipe nipple and a matching flange. This is what I was going to use until I remembered this piece of salvage from an exercise bike in my parts hoard.
- Four screws to mount the base to your work bench.
- A dowel that fits inside the base. (Not pictured)
- A metal rod preferably with one end bent or flared. (An old allen wrench included with prefab furniture may work)
Step 3: Tools
- Drill with bits
- Dremel (not pictured)
- Calipers or measuring tape
- Drill bit sizer
- Metal Punch(not pictured)
- Ballpeen Hammer (not pictured)
- Mallet (not pictured)(permanent install option)
Step 4: Choose Your Dowel
You'll need to use a dowel that will fit snugly in your base. And I can't remember if it is tubing or pipe whose diameter is taken from its inside diameter (ID), so you'll need to measure the ID of your base. You can do this with a measuring tape or a pair of calipers. Or you can just take the pipe nipple over to the dowel rod area and see which one has the best fit.
Now my brain fart occurred when I bought the dowel. I just said "That sounds close enough" instead of doing the decimal to fraction conversion. I ended up buying a dowel that was a little too big. Once I realized my error I decided to sand it down to make it fit. I did this until it got tedious and then said "Ah screw it! I can just pound the fucker in with a mallet!" So that's what I did. Then I realized it wasn't going to come back out. Which is when I realized that I had meant for the dowel to be removable. This is when I said "SHIT!" and cursed my impatience/laziness.
Step 5: Prepare the Base for the Pin
In order to secure the dowel in the base and still have it be removable I decided to pass a a pin through the base and dowel.
First you'll need to use your handy bit sizer to determine the diameter of your chosen pin.
Once you have this info you can drill the appropriate sized hole in the base.
I was lucky in that there was already a hole in my base that I could use as a pilot hole. If you aren't as fortunate mark where you want your hole to be and then use a metal punch and a ballpeen hammer to make a dent. This will keep your drill bit from walking.
Once you've drilled the first hole repeat this procedure on the side of your base opposite the hole. I didn't. I just tried to use the first hole as a guide. I didn't bother to use my punch to keep the bit from walking. I ended up with a usable, but ugly result. See picture three.
Now use your Dremel with a grinding stone to clean up your freshly drilled holes.
Step 6: Dowel Movement
Now that the base is ready it's time to install the dowel.
First you need to decide how tall you want the stand to be. I did this by holding the dowel in the vertical position on the bench in the location where I planned to install it. After doing this I saw it would hit the light so I trimmed about six inches off one end with my saw.
Now to join dowel and base.
If you are going the permanent installation route just use a mallet to pound the dowel into the base. Or if your dowel isn't slightly oversized you could glue it in place with epoxy.
For those of you following the temporary installation route place you dowel in the base. Mark the position of the hole for the pin on the dowel. Then drill a hole through the dowel at this spot. Or you can try using the hole in the base as a template for drilling the hole in the dowel.
Step 7: Hook Up!!!
Now its time to install the hook. Your hook should be long enough that the Dremel can hang without hitting the dowel.
Once you have a hook, you need to figure out how high to place it. I chose a spot about two inches from the top of the dowel. This keeps the Dremel out of the way but within easy reach and it leaves plenty of slack in the flex shaft so you can easily move about as you work.
Now that you know where you want the hook mark the spot. Then drill a pilot hole the appropriate diameter for your hook. Screw one nut on the hook a good portion of the way onto the threaded base of the hook. Once this is in place screw your hook into the pilot hole. This may be a little tricky, but I used a screw driver as a lever to turn the hook when I couldn't do it by hand. I turned the hook until it protruded from the back of the dowel enough to screw the second nut on. Then I tightened down the first nut to keep it from moving. This may be overkill. but I figued it couldn't hurt.
Step 8: Base Installation
Now we need to mount the base. This step will be the same whether you've chosen to go with the permanent or temporary version.
Set the base where you want to mount it and mark the positions of the holes. (Picture 1)
Next drill pilot holes for your screws. (Picture 2)
Then drive in the screws. You may want to use washers for a more secure mount. (Picture 3)
Step 9: Finished/Lessons Learned
Now hang your Dremel and get to work.
The biggest lesson learned from this project is to have more patience. This is easier said than done. The quick and easy path leads Darth Vader to the dark side and me to brain farts.