In this ible I'll show you how to make a cheap, easy and quick light for your Dremel (original or not like mine) with just 8 white 10mm LEDs and 4 resistors.
It took me just 1 hour of work and it cost me nothing! I used all things that I had around my workbench left there from old projects or taken from dismounted things.
Anyhow, if you have to start from zero, this project will cost you 3$. I leave you the links where you can buy all the needed items at a very low price.
Step 1: Materials & Tools
- 9V battery
- 9V battery snap connector (0.10$)
- 8x white 10mm LEDs (2.5$)
- 4x 120 ohm resistors (0.04$)
- plastic jar cap (I used peanut butter one)
- modelling clay
optionals for STEP7:
- small plastic sheet
- two part glue
- soldering iron
- heat shrink tubing or insulated tape
Step 2: Drill Holes for the LEDs
All we need to do in the first step is to drill all the 16 tiny holes for the LEDs's legs and one central bigger hole for the dremel.
I removed the black plastic nut from my dremel, and I measured the width of its hole with a caliber. (1,7cm)
I started by marking two "crossed crosses" passing through the cap's center. I measured 1cm from the edges, I marked two small dots on every line, and finally I marked the central hole with a compass.
TIPS: In order to make all the small holes for the legs of the LEDs, you can simply use a small drill bit, or you can also use a heated needle. (like I did)
For the dremel hole instead, you will have to make it smaller than the marked one. Then with patience you will have to enlarge it - test it, enlarge it - test it, enlarge it - test it, till you'll obtain a snug fit. (this because with a too big hole, the dremel plastic nut cannot hold the cap in place.)
Once drilled all the holes, you can insert the LEDs paying attention to the right polarity, and you can add the glue to hold them in place.
Oh!! I spray painted the cap with black for a better look! ;)
Step 3: LEDs and Resistors
Now it's time to solder resistors to LEDs.
As you can see in photo#1, we need to connect 4 couple of LEDs in parallel; so I soldered one resistor to a couple of LEDs and I repeated this process four times.
I started by soldering together the central legs of each couple, than I insulated them with a small piece of insulated tape.
Then I soldered together all the four negative legs, and again I insulated all with small pieces of insulated tape.
Finally I soldered a resistor to each positive leg, and I soldered them together.
At the end, you should obtain something like photo#5. All insulated except for the negative and the positive wire (that will be soldered to the 9V snap connector).
NOTE:Since my dremel has an irregular shape on the front, I leave a space when soldering all the components. (photo#2,3,4,5)
Step 4: Solder the 9V Snap Connector and Test It
The title says all.
Solder the 9V snap connector, and test if everything works out good.
In photo#1 one LED seems to be broken but is just a "photo problem"!
It works bright as all the other do.
Step 5: The Battery Place
I took the dremel in my hand and I tried to find an empty place for the battery.
I decided to place it on one side under the ON/OFF switch but, as you can see in photo#1, there was a gap that I had to fill in some way. So I took some modelling clay and I made a custom "flat to round adaptor".
This clay hardens in the oven at 110°C for 30 minutes. As you can understand, I cannot put my dremel in the oven, so I heated it for 10 minutes with a butane lighter paying attention to move the flame continuously in order to avoid of burning the clay or the dremel. Once the upper side hardened, I removed it from the dremel, and I repeated the process on the other side.
At the end of this step you should obtain a hard "flat to round adaptor", but if you are not happy for the result, you could now put it in the oven. (I didn't need it)
Step 6: Almost Done
There are several ways and places for the battery...
You could solder two longer wires to the battery snap connector and keep the battery in your pocket or on your workbench, you could hold the battery on the dremel with nylon zip ties, with hose clamps, ecc...
Anyway I decided to attach the 9V battery and the custom adaptor to the dremel with just two pieces of double sided tape. It's very strong, and quick to attach and detach.
The project it's finished!! BUT... In order to make it more sturdy, I decided to fill the back side with two part glue.
Go to the next step to understand better what I mean.
Step 7: A Little Improvement - Optional Step
Since I wanted to fill the "back side" with two part glue, I made a mold with a small plastic sheet.
I glued it to the jar's cap with normal glue (I used vinavil), that will also help to fill possible gaps.
Once dried, I mixed a lot of bi-component glue, and I pour it into the cap paying attention of avoiding bubbles. Then I let it dry and harden.
Now you should have something like photo#5.
Step 8: Finish!! No More Dark When Working
Finish!! As I promised you, in just an hour you can make a custom and very cheap Dremel Light.
Now, when I'll have to work in a bad illuminated room, or when I'll need a light in order to work more precisely, I will just have to place it on my dremel, tighten the black plastic nut, and secure the battery in place with a small piece of double sided tape.
In photo#2 one/two LEDs seems to be broken but is just a "photo problem"! All the 8 LEDs work bright as they should.
Thank you for reading my Instructable. ;)
Feel free to comment and ask if you need to know something!