Hey yall! CoolRextreme here with yet another DIY Longboard post...

Yes, I will give you a detailed account of my build. From frustration to fascination. Why?

Cause we all know builds are not just about going smoothly and coming together perfectly.
No, I will not talk to you as if you have already done your homework on electric skateboard (or E-Board as they are called) builds either. Why?
Cause I wish I had found a post that gives the details of how and why the components work, and how they work with each other. I will make sure to try and tell you everything I know and learned throughout the build. Plus I will add links to VERY helpful reference pages.

So, without further ado, I present my Electric Longboard Build:

It moves at a pace of 19mph (30.58 kph)

with a range of 5.01 miles before the ESC's auto-shut off kicks in.

Looks awesome.



So who should read this?

  1. Anyone who is new to the idea of building an electric skateboard/longboard
  2. Anyone who wants to build their own electric skateboard/longboard.
  3. Anyone who wants to read about the build of an electric longboard.
  4. Anyone who wants to get a general understanding of electric skateboards.
  5. Anyone who wants to correct my knowledge about anything on electric skateboards.

And why should you read this?

  1. Detailed list of supplies, and prices of the supplies used in this build.
  2. Helpful list of terminology.
  3. As always, tips and warnings, cause learning from someone else's mistakes is a lot more cost effective then learning from your own ;)
  4. And of course, see the outcome. (Again, its pretty good!)

Step 1: Introduction

Once again, CoolRextreme here! And today I'm bringing you the journal on how I built my Electric Longboard

It has always been my dream to build something that can simply blow the minds of other people, without blowing myself up.
I really have no idea how I came to the idea of building an Electric Longboard. I believe it was on one sunny day when I was parked at a stoplight. I was waiting for the green light, when I saw this guy on an electric bike cruising up the highway overpass without touching the pedals.
I immediately thought to myself "Cool!"
Then came the "Wish I had one of those"
Then the "Actually, I could probably build one"
When I got home later, I got on the web and looked up some DIY electric bike builds.
Believe it or not, I had no idea about Instructables.com at this time. In fact, it wasn't till after I had ordered the parts for my electric skateboard that I was reading Popular Mechanics (or was it Science?) and saw the smiling faces of about 30 people. It was an article on these different people who had started different websites where people get together, share ideas, and build, make, or design stuff. Sites such as Local Motors, a site where people can upload their own vehicle designs, realistic, or not. (I was a fan of this site, mostly because of the sick futuristic car designs some of the users had poster)
One of the people just happened to be the Founder (or 'president'?) of a site called Instructables.
Curious as to why such a funny name, I looked up this site.
To my delight, it was an amazing site where users could post "'ibles" where they detailed how to do, or, *gasp* make, things.
Love at first sight.
But hold on, I'm getting ahead of my build there.
I was looking at electric bike builds, and wishing things could be cheaper/smaller.
I really liked the thought of making something that could 'go' on electricity, but didn't really want something the size of a bike. Maybe I could electrify something smaller?
Then, out of nowhere (or maybe just my highly imaginative brain, I couldn't tell) The idea hit, an electric skateboard!
First I looked up "electric skateboard" What I found amazed me. Companies that had already started making a[nd selling electric skateboards, and I had NEVER even HEARD of such a thing! What also amazed me was the price for these things. Anywhere from 700$ to $2000+. There was no way I was going to spend that much on an electric skate board, then my maker side kicked in. Surely I could make one for cheaper, right?
I looked up "DIY Electric skateboard" and found a whole bunch of posts on them. Part of me went "YES! I CAN!" the other part of me went "Darn, I wasn't the first"
To tell the truth, I knew nothing about skateboarding, what's even worse, I had limited knowledge on anything electrical. I needed some serious info/help...

<p>Hey,<br>really cool Project! Thanks for the work you've done for this Instruction. I'm looking forward to make one as well, unfortunately the esc you used isn't available anymore(at least on eBay). What brand is the one you used or is there an alternative one(Trackstar maybe?) I could use?<br>I hope you can help me.</p>
<p>Hello! Thanks, I tried to make a nice beginner's introduction to the E-boarding community. I'm glad that almost two years later people are still checking it out :D</p><p>When my ESC was burnt out I went over to Hobby King and got one of their X-car beast 120A ESCs.</p><p><a href="https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-beast-series-esc-1-8-scale-120a.html" rel="nofollow">https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-be...</a></p><p>I really like it. Only 60 bucks. Plus the fan is pretty darn quiet, so much so that I can resist the temptation to plug it up :p It has served me very well for the past year.</p><p>However, if you want a bit more max amp space, throw in 10 more bucks and get the 150 amp ESC.</p><p><a href="https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-beast-series-esc-1-8-scale-150a.html" rel="nofollow">https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-tm-x-car-be...</a></p>
I want the latest question hope . <br>My motor is beeping 6-7 times when I turn on my esc. Everything is working but why is he beeping.
<p>When you turn on the ESC, it usually beeps 4 or 5 times. This is just telling you that the motor is correctly connected to the ESC.</p><p>When you turn on the remote, it beeps once more (For a total of 5-6 beeps) to tell you that the ESC is connected to the receiver/controller correctly.</p><p>The beeping 5-7 times is completely normal, happens every time you power it on, and is in fact telling you everything is connected and ready to go!<br></p>
<p>Hi, my motor is trembling (shaking) there is video https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByPT1E7FC_MdOU1fckplMWtkTjg can you help me please . :)</p>
<p>Sure!</p><p>The motor shaking could be caused by two reasons (That I have experienced myself)</p><p>1st. If your motor refuses to work AT ALL (not this case) and JUST shakes, its a wire connection problem. Make sure all three wires are securely soldered between the ESC and the motor.</p><p>2nd (Seems to be your case here) This IS a brushless motor. In short, that means that it has to sometimes get a bit of a start help turning right from the get-go. Because they dont have the internal brushes like a brushed motor, they need a bit of help, or more current to actually start spinning. (For this reason you usually have to push off when electric long boarding before engaging the motor)</p><p>Same when your not putting weight on the motor. When you are just barely pulling back on the trigger, the motor often needs a little more juice to really start turning.</p><p>From what I can tell from the video (Thanks so much for providing that!) This is completely normal for an unsensored brushless motor, and you have no cause to worry!</p>
And can you send me on what value you set ESC please.
<p>Actually with my new ESC (after the one my brother burnt out) I did NOT get the programing cable! However, I am going to grab some new batteries soon (The others are just plain physically worn our from being repeatedly stuffed into the metal box and I don't want them to accidentally 'pop' on a sharp corner) and when I do I shall indeed grab that programing USB cord!</p>
There is a picture with my values
<p>Due to the vibrations of the skateboard on the road, the set screws on the small pulley have fallen out. What size were the set screws, as well as any ideas on how to keep them in? Thanks!</p>
<p>Hi, im trying to understand how ESC work, can i buy a cheap airplane/heli ESC as long as the transmitter is also for airplane/heli, or do an electric longboard need a car/boat ESC?</p><p>Also perhaps the ESC need to be car/boat for other reasons like breaking and accelerate to not blow up the motor?</p>
<p>From what i have read about ESC, what limits you is the current flow that is allowed on the ESC. Cheap ESC will not be able to handle high current flow which in this case it is a motor that uses quit a bit of current.. </p>
Hey, I'm trying to connect the motor to the esc but the wires are completely different sizes. How do I go about connecting these?
<p>Yes, for me the motor wires where much smaller then the ESC wires.</p><p>I just cut off the ends of the ESC wires, same with the motor wires. Then I twisted each motor wire to it's corresponding ESC wire, spread some solder on them to hold them together, then wrapped each connection with electrical tape.</p><p>Hope that helps!</p>
nice build tutorial! I just started to make my own. https://youtu.be/yWeLAkTYFoY (build log)<br>I will try to make the best quality board under 400 $
<p>what wires of the motor connect to the ESC, i couldnt find any manuels or instructions...</p>
<p>It does not matter what order the three ESC wires and three motor wires are hooked up in. They work all ways! However, if you hook them all up and find your motor is spinning the wrong way, just switch two of the wires and the motor will spin the opisite way!</p>
<p>i have the same ESC and motor as you, could you please explain the setup. my ESC and motor have a purple light upon boot. even with a remote properly synced nothing happens to the motor. Wouldn't it at least remain stationary and not spin freely? Im really nervous about this all. Thanks</p>
<p>Hmm. Between the ESC and motor, all you have to do is connect them.</p><p>Double check that the motor and ESC wires are completely attached. </p><p>Also double check that your remote and the ESC is are properly synched. Here is an excerpt from my instructable-in-progress for my next board. It explains how I synched this ESC with this Remote.</p><p>(I had to screen capture it because instructables.com's copy/paste does not work)</p><p>See if that all works. Is your motor beeping on boot-up?</p>
That worked! The manual that came with the Esc did not even mention the setup of the remote. Thanks a bunch now my skateboard can move!
<p>No problem! I'm glad it was that easy and there was nothing broken.</p><p>Indeed. There was no manual, and nothing on the internet about the set-up process for that ESC, so I had to sit down for an afternoon and try and figure out the correct sequence and such.</p><p>If properly set, you should have forward speed (100% speed), break, and reverse from a stop (50% speed)</p><p>Enjoy! And remember, safety first!</p>
<p>I'm making an electric skateboard and want to make it different to the other ones on the market. Any ideas? i was thinking of having a removable battery so that the user could have more than one having extra range. I was also thinking of including a Battery Management System?</p>
<p>This is a question I ask myself all the time.</p><p>There are just so many possibilities out there!</p><p>Yes, you could make the batteries removable, and also make it so you could put different sized batteries in. You could add a USB charger, LED lights, straps, or mountainboard wheels for off-roading.</p><p>You could also hook up the batteries to a DPDT switch so you could charge them in parallel and run them in Series!</p>
<p>How long should the longboard be. Please tell me in inches</p>
<p>You can motorize a longboard, skateboard, or penny board. Really it just depends on how you want to ride your board.</p><p>This article on the difference between longboards and skateboards should helo however!</p><p><a href="https://longboardsreview.com/longboard-vs-skateboard" rel="nofollow">https://longboardsreview.com/longboard-vs-skateboard</a>/</p>
This instructable is amazing.
<p>Thank you very much! Stay tuned, I will have another one out, probably in a few months!</p>
Can you add another battery to get extended range?
<p>Yep! Just add another batter of equal voltage and hook it up in <strong>parallel</strong> with the original battery!</p><p>But be careful. both batteries will drain at the same rate of eachother, so it is preferable to join two same-capacity batteries, vs one large capacity and one small capacity, as you do not want to under-discharge the smaller batter, and still have half the bigger battery left.</p><p>Hope that helps!</p><p>-C.R</p>
Thanks! I've decided to use one 20,000mah 6s lipo battery (hobby king offered me a discount because I was looking at the product for a while. I dont know how that happened but ill take it?) Would the following parts all work well together. If it helps im about 125 pounds. A 2.4ghz enertion controller. A turnigy aerodrive sk3-6364 245kv brushless outrunner motor with a max loading of 70a, a max power of 2700w, a mass of 718 grams, and a 4mm bullet connecter. My esc is a hobbyking x-car 120a brushless car esc (sensored/sensorless) that has a mass of 84 grams. I think thats it for the main stuff. The deck I am using (or want to use) is a loaded vanguard deck (this a bamboo deck. Would bamboo work in this build?) with 80mm orangatang kegel wheels, 180mm black paris trucks v2, muirskate bearings, and .25in shock pad/risers. I think thats all the main parts. Can you link me to the prebuilt aluminum motor cutout? Thanks for the help so far.
<p>Let me guess, the MultiStar brand?</p><p>For some reason HobbyKing has been putting all the multistar brand batteries on amazing sales. For my next board, I was going to get two of the 6S 10,000mAh batteries for a 12S setup, but I missed the deal. Soon though they had put up the 4S 16,000 mAh batteries on sale, so I got 3 of those instead.</p><p>I am starting to wonder though, why the huge discounts on multistar?</p><p>PS. The 4S 16,000 batteries I got where pretty sizable. I forgot to check the measurements. I would suggest checking the measurements of the batteries to see how big of a battery your gonna get</p><p>Anyway, Everything looks great! I am actually running that exact ESC atm as I burnt out my last one as the fan was plugged. Lesson learned DONT plug the fan of the ESC. It will overheat and die.</p><p>Remember, with 80mm wheels, you will have to use a smaller wheel gear with less teeth. Not the 40 tooth gear I used for my build.</p><p>I built my own aluminum motor mount, but yes, there are pre-built ones out there, though the pricing can be hard to look at. Here are a few links:</p><p><a href="http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/carbon-fiber-motor-mount-enertion/" rel="nofollow">Enertion's motor mount</a></p><p><a href="http://diyelectricskateboard.com/diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/single-bolt-on-motor-mount-only-blue/" rel="nofollow">Torqueboard's</a> (Its a cool new design!)</p><p>And Alien Drive Systems has some motor mount pieces in their <a href="http://aliendrivesystems.com/product-category/alien-drive-spares/" rel="nofollow">Spare Parts </a>section!</p><p>As for me, I will be CNCing some mounts, similar to Enertion's, for my net build.</p><p>Have fun!</p><p>-C.R</p>
Thanks for all the help! So the gear for the wheel will be the same size with less teeth (maybe 30-35). Sorry for all the questions, Im new to this whole thing
<p>Its ok :D I like questions, gives me time to think.i</p><p>No, the gear will have to be smaller, but yes, with less teeth.</p><p>This is because I was usuing a 90mm wheel, which has a larger diameter then a 80mm wheel. The 40T pulley has a diameter around 20mm (2cm) smaller then the 90mm wheel.</p><p>However, as the 80mm wheel has an even smaller diameter then the 90mm wheel, you will HAVE to use a smaller wheel gear, or the gear could en up being bigger then the wheel, which is obviously bad :P</p><p>Also, think of rocks and pebbles. You want your gear to be a bit off the ground, so it wont be rubbing the belt against anything bad.</p><p>So as a whole; smaller wheel = smaller gear = less teeth.</p><p>But remember, that lowers the gear ratio.</p><p>For example. I have a motor pulley with 14 teeth, and my wheel pulley has 40 teeth (14/40). For every 2.8 turns my motor makes, my wheel makes one turn. General physics (idk xD) states that this makes it much easier for the motor to turn the wheel, then a 14/30 gear ratio in which for every 2.1 motor turns, the wheel turns one turn.</p><p>Working the motor too hard can be bad, so you generally want the biggest wheel pulley you can get, with the smallest motor pulley you can get for maximm torque power.</p><p>However, wheel pulley is again determined by how big your wheel is. Also, 14T is really scraping the bottom of motor pulley teeth count, as the smaller your motor pulley is, the less teeth the belt will be in contact with (I shall add pictures upon request if this is getting to complicated) aka, a 14 T pulley will have less teeth gripping the belt then a 30 T pulley. </p><p>You do not want the belt to skip teeth, so you gotta make sure youre pulleys can get a good grip on it!</p><p>So far: Smaller wheel= smaller wheel pulley = lower gear ratio. (less motor turns per wheel turn) In order to fix that: Smaller motor pulley. However, Smaller motor pulley = less belt teeth in contact with motor pulley teeth = more prone to belt skipping = running belts much easier.</p><p>So, in order to fix that problem, use higher torque (lower kv) motor. Which, you have a lower kv motor vs mine, so you should be good!</p><p>Just be aware, smaller wheels means smaller gear ratio. It all works off eachother, and while way to complicated to explain, it is quite easy to grasp if you just imagine how it all is set up. Its all just common physics and what-not.</p><p>So for you, you already have a lower kv motor, so you can probably afford a lower gear ratio. A 14/30-35 should work, just check to see how the diameter of such a pulley compares to the diameter of the 8mm wheel! You should have the edge of the pulley be away from the edge of the wheel by a cm or two, just to keep it and your belt away from the ground</p><p>Anyway, hope that helps! If you need diagrams or what not, or more questions, just ask! I am getting excited for you :D</p><p>-C.R</p>
Im going think out loud here. So the radius of the wheel is 40mm so if I want a clearance of 1-2cm off the ground the pulley will have to be no more in 60-40cm diameter?<br>Im also planning on using .25in or .13in risers/shock pads. 13/100in is 3.3mm so thats not very sufficient or noticable. 1/4in is .635mm which is more significant so I think this may be better (again not positive xD) Which ever one you think will work best ill use.<br>I also think I may need a diagram if you dont mind.<br>Also, am I correct saying the pulley is near the wheel and the gear on the motor? Do you know of any pulleys/wheels I could use in my situation?<br>Thanks for all the help so far!
<p>Sorry for the long wait in reply, Have not check my email for a while...</p><p>Yep! You got the pulley radius/diameter down. 60 should work out well. You just don't want to ride the pulley vs the wheel ;D</p><p>At the moment I am using 1/8 inch riser/chock pads. More to keep the metal trucks off my lovely paint job then to absorb bumps and such. NOT for vibe eating. Personal opinion I guess. But I have heard of people buying 1/4 inch thick rubber mat from Home Depot, cutting out their own risers, and using them on their board. I guess the slightly softer rubber absorbs more bumps and vibrations.</p><p>And after sailing down a sidewalk at 18mph, the cracks start to get annoying. But that is nothing compared to going down a fancy brick sidewalk &gt;.&lt; I cant feel my feet after that! xD</p><p>I might try the Home Depot rubber riser trick. But really, it all comes down to personal preference. In the beginning though, its just a major step up from non-powered to powered Longboard. Why worry about the trivial things until you get a feel for what you like/don't like!</p><p>PS. 'Pulley' is just another word for the 'gears' whether its the 'gear' on the motor or the 'gear' on the wheel.</p><p>It stems from the fact that we are actually using timing belts used in cars/motorcycles or what not, where the 'gears' for the belts are called pulleys, or timing pulleys.</p><p>They are not technically gears anyways, as I believe gears come in contact with other gears, whereas pulleys have a rope or belt moving along/around them. Sorry if I confused you!</p><p>However, the ratio of pulley teeth to pulley teeth (14/40 or what not) is still galled 'gearing', not 'pulleying' :P</p><p>Also I shall get a diagram up asap! Of which concept would you prefer the diagram to focus on? Gearing ratios? Or the pulley-belt tooth contact area?</p>
No problem with the late reply. I wouldn't consider it late anyway :) Is it possible to have a mix of both? I feel I have a light understanding of the gear ratios. I think thats just the ratio of teeth on one gear and the other. So in my case the one gear would have 14 teeth and the other would have 40. Or the one would have 7 and the other would have 20. Still not sure and I think I'm still far from understanding the full concept.<br>The pulley belt tooth thing I haven't understood as much as the gear ratio concept.
Change of plan: now im also looking at the enertion motor. (Not sure sure which motor to use, the hobby king or the enertion brand. Im thinking enertion is higher quality.) Why do I always have to look at the nice, more expensive motors?? Would this motor work in ny build?
<p>I just looked at your original motor and the enertion motor.</p><p>The low kv will defiantly help!</p><p>If you are up to spend an extra 60 bucks, I would totally go with the $121 enertion rather the turnigy motor. Here is why.</p><p>Lower kv. As stated above, will really help with the lower gearing as it has more torque compared to 245 kv. MUCH more torque.</p><p>It only has a tad bit less power then the turnigy (2400W vs 2700W power) But then again, that is all even more then the one motor I am running with my board (1500W power) So in terms of power, you are just peachy! (great)</p><p>Also, the enertion motor can be run up to 12 (44.4 volts), whereas the turnigy motor was only able to run up to 10S (37 volts) So in respects of future upgrades, the enertion comes in best, as you could just buy another 6S battery and almost double your speed :P</p><p>So yes, if you can spare the $, totally go with the enertion motor! (its also MEANT to be used with E-boards)</p>
<p>I was thinking about running 2 turnigy motors with 2 esc's and a double or triple battery pack in parallel. Any thoughts? </p><p>I am ordering some aluminum bars from ebay that I can get cnc'd/machined for free from my university. If they turn out nice I can offer them on a forum, (since I am buying 5'6 bars can make 12 mounts). </p>
<p>wich ESC are you going to use to take all that 12S power?</p>
Hobbyking x-car 120a brushless car esc (sensored/sensorless) Not my prefered esc but I need to make up money somewhere. The motor handles up to 12s or 44.4 volts but I am only using one 20000mah 6s or 22.2 volt battery.
<p>so, your motor won't make 2400W with 22.2V. Any idea how much power a 12S motor gets with 6S batteries?</p>
I think still 2400w. Not positive
Enertion it is! Thanks
Also, do you know any videos on youtube that could help in general.
<p>Okiedokielokie!</p><p>I know its really bad, (quickly drawn in paint) but it should help illustrate my point.</p><p>On the top, you have a small motor pulley and a large wheel pulley. The yellow/red line represents the belt.</p><p>Also, we are ignoring the two large circles, those represent the wheel pulley. At the moment we are interested in the two smaller circles which represent motor pulleys of different sizes.</p><p>Now take a moment to realize that on a belt, there are teeth every few mm.</p><p>The RED part of the simulated belt is where the belt is in contact with a pulley. The Yellow part is where the belt is not in contact with any pulley.</p><p>Now if you where to measure the red area on the smaller motor pulley, and compare it to the red area on the larger motor pulley (bottom illustration) you will note there is more area space where the belt is in contact with the pulley.</p><p>Lets say the motor pulley on the top illustration has 20mm of belt contact. Lets also pretend that the belt has a tooth every 5mm.</p><p>That gives you about 4 teeth in contact with the small motor pulley</p><p>Now if we compare the red area of the top motor pulley with the red area on the bottom (larger) motor pulley, we would notice a substantially longer red area. Almost twice as much!</p><p>So that gives us about 40mm of belt/motor pulley contact at all times, or about 8 teeth in contact with the motor pulley at all times.</p><p>Which one do you think will slip more? The top motor pulley with less teeth to grip at, or the bottom motor pulley with almost twice the teeth to grip at?</p><p>But also remember this is all because of the pulley sizes. If you where to shrink that wheel pulley in either illustration, you would get more teeth gripping that motor pulley at any one time.</p><p>Its a bit like the saying 'your only as strong as your weakest link'</p><p>Hope that clears that up! Ill gladly answer any more questions. I just hope that dose not confuse you more xD</p>
Thanks so much! So I want the most teeth on the smaller pulley in contact with the belt at every given time (to prevent slippage). So I want the largest pulley possible but not to big because of rocks and all that stuff.
You could always add a idler pulley to the mix.
<p>You want the largest motor pulley possible, but still keeping the gearing ratio high to reduce strain on motor. The bigger your wheel pulley is compared to your motor pulley, the higher the gear ratio. But then again, the wheel determines the maximum size of the larger pulley, and so pretty much controls your max gear ratio.</p><p>As for the motor pulley, you dont have to worry about it being to big to hit the ground and such. The biggest motor pulley I have ever heard used was a 16 tooth one, with a 38 tooth gear.</p><p>The bigger the motor pulley is compared to the wheel pulley, the more strain is put on the motor. However if the motor pulley is too small, the belt has a much better chance of slipping. The safe range for the motor pulley is 16T-12T Any lower then 12tooth and you are really asking for belt slippage.</p>
nvm I just read the battery section

About This Instructable




Bio: Hi yall! You can call me CoolRextreme. I am a current student at Butte College, working my way through a degree in Fire Technology, and ... More »
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