This Farmhouse table was designed to be made from readily available lumber at the home store. It is important to use kiln dried heat treated lumber for furniture designed in this way. Look for the initials HT or KD to signify this type of lumber.
The table consists of a removable top made from 2x10's that are glued and clamped together with biscuits for alignment and breadboard ends installed the same way. The base is made up of 4x4's for the legs and 2x4's for the ledgers held together with pocket screws and glue.
The bench was designed with the same principles as the tabletop but a much smaller version.
This is my representation of how a farmhouse table and I know there are loads of different designs out there.
Please check out the full video above or on my Youtube Channel IntotheDirtshop if you have more questions than this article can address and feel free to comment!
Thanks for checking it out!
Step 1: Cutting the Boards to Length
The first step I performed was to cut the 2x10's down to length, I believe they were about 70" rough cut and then I cut them down to 60" after the glue ups to give myself a clean edge to attach the breadboard ends.
Using a speed square to get a straight cut is a good tip for circular saw cutting, although it is not critical for this step of the project.
Step 2: Jointing and Biscuits
To get all of the boards on top to line up with a seamless edge, you should joint the boards and give yourself a flat straight edge to work with. At the time I did not have a jointer so I tried two different methods to try and get the best edge possible that the clamps for glue up could close.
One method is to use a table saw to skim the edge of the board and then flip it around and do the other edge.
Another method is to use a hand plane or powered planer to get the edge nice and flat.
In doing both of these methods the goal was to remove the rounded edge on the lumber and get the boards flat for the biscuits and glue up.
I then used a cheap biscuit jointer by making biscuit grooves in each board aligned with a pencil tick on both surfaces. I have a full review of this biscuit jointer on my Youtube channel as well if you would like to check that out.
Step 3: The Glue Up
I then put glue on the biscuits on both boards, as well as, on the board edge. Using a soft mallet to tap the boards together I then used clamps to hold the board together tight until the middle seam disappeared.
The next glue up I did i used cauls to keep the boards flat so they did not get misaligned in height and twist upwards. Check out the video for a closer look at this step.
I also recommend using pipe clamps to get the most clamping force possible.
Step 4: The BIG Glue Up
After repeating the last step to make the other half of the table top, I put biscuits joints in both pieces and glued them together into one piece.
Then, using a straight edge, I took my circular saw and cut a straight line on edge end to clean up the edges and get the boards down to their final length.
The breadboard ends went on the same way as the other glue ups, except this time I used two pipe clamps to span the length of the whole table to glue the ends on.
Since these breadboard end were going into end grain on the main tabletop top, I also used a few pocket hole screw to attach these ends.
Step 5: Building the Base
The base for this detachable table top is created from 4x4's and 2x4's. I used a simple design with pocket hole screws and glue to join each corner of the base to the legs.
I also added a spreader bar on each end leg to keep the legs sturdy and at the same distance apart from the top to the bottom. I attached these 2x4's using glue and pocket hole screws.
Step 6: Finishing the Base
To make this table even more sturdy, even though with the top attached it will be strong enough, I added 45 degree braces on each corner from some scraps because they will not be seen.
I attached the braces with glue and screws.
Lastly, I added a footer brace to the span the width of the table and keep everything square and at equal distance from each other.
It is a good idea to measure diagonally from corner to corner on the base when working to ensure that the base is square.
Step 7: Planing and Sanding
Ideally you would want to have run the tabletop boards through a thickness planer before glue to try and get them all as flat and similar thickness as possible.
I did not have one of these tools at the time, and I relied on the alignment of the biscuits and just did a few passes with my powered planer. I hand plane may have worked a bit better, but I was happy with the results.
To get out any other unevenness in the top surface I just did a lot of sanding with both the belt sander and the random orbital sander. I started at 60 grit and went up to 220 to finish.
Step 8: Finish and Bench
The finish I used was just dark walnut danish oil, and I believe I did about 3-4 coats. Then I applied oil based poly and sanded with 220 in between coats.
The bench is constructed the same way as the table was, for more details on the bench construction check out the full video on my youtube channel at the link in the beginning.
Step 9: Installation and Final Result
The apartment that we were to install this in had some tricky corners and stairs. So I left the table top detachable and later put in some pocket hole screws to attach it in place.
The final result is a beautiful farmhouse style dinner table that will last a lifetime.
The total time invested was about 20 hours and roughly $135 with materials available at the home store.
If you liked this instructable please check out my other ones and head over to my Youtube channel to see this table built and more DIY videos! Please subscribe and share this video!
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