Introduction: DIY High Voltage 8V-120V 0-15A CC/CV Small Portable Adjustable Bench Power Supply
Great little 100V 15Amp Power Supply that can be used just about anywhere. High Voltage, medium Amps. Can be used to charge that E-Bike, or just a basic 18650. Can also be used on just about any DIY project, when testing. The Pro Tip for this build is how to create a very Powerful but small Charger/Bench PowerSupply! Makes a Great Bench Power Supply. I added the Extra Voltmeter to the Converter Module, so when I am charging, I have voltage on the Voltmeter and Amps on the Module. The other voltmeter in the lower left corner is the Power going into the fan from the Boost Converter. This is also a Portable device(9x6x4.5inches) if you need it on the go. Just make sure to carry a DC jack to whatever Jack, your using with your Battery Pack. I have an Extra DC to XT60 connector I use. You can plug that into the side next to the Fan adjustment hole. SDPT switch on the top, keeps the 24V 9amp Power supply Isolated from the Battery pack with just a simple switch. Uses a Buck Converter to control the speed of the fan if it gets too loud. Here are the steps I used when I built this. Even though this instructable is long, the build is pretty simple. I am sure you could make this with the same parts a little easier. Please message me here and show me your build if you decided to build one yourself. Here is the steps.
Please, Don't forget to Vote! I would love to win a 3D Printer(currently out of my Price Range). There is so many things I could do with one. I would definitely incorporate this in my DIYs! Thanks for showing Support!
Step 1: Lay Out and Look Over All Your Part and Pieces Need for the Build.
I try and make it a point to layout all my parts and pieces need for the build. Look over the components and make sure there are no defect. I also Tested the DC to DC Boost Converter(BST-900) and 24V power supply. I had the 900Watt Boost Converter from a previous build where I ended up using a 1200 watt instead. The 24V 6Amp(9amp) power supply was also left over from a soldering Iron station build, where I ended up with 2 of them. Then just recently I had a project where I needed a 1p10S battery Pack and a 42V charger. The Imax B6 I am using is not capable of doing 10s 42V battery packs. Remembered that the Boost Converter could do up to 120V, I decided that this would make a Great Project.Looking through my stock and some leftover Pletsiglass. I ended up only needing to purchase the wood from the local hardware store. Please message me if you need a link to any of the parts, most of them were purchased a while back(reason for the missing links). Here is the list-
MingHe 900Watt DC to DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15Amp Max
AC DC Inverter 110V 220V 100V-265V to 24V 6Amp (9amp max) Switching Power Supply SMPS Adapter
LM2596 DC-DC Buck adjustable Step-down Power Supply Module
Mini DC 0-100V 3-Wire Voltmeter Blue LED
Mini DC 3.3-30V 2 wire Voltmeter Blue LED
16 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire
10 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire
12 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire
10 AWG White Silicone Wire
5.5MMX 2.1 2 Pin Female Power Jack
Haitronic 20cm Jumper Wires/Dupont Cable
VOSO Amplifier Speaker Terminal Binding Post Banana Plug
Kester Solder 24-6040-0027 60/40 Stand 0.031
Kester 951 & 186 Liquid Flux
Mis. Shrink Tubing Sleeves
ON/OFF/ON 3 Positions SPDT Round Boat Rocker Switch 10A/125V 6A/250V
The 3 prong Mains AC Female, The AC with Light Power switch & 12V Fan was salvaged from a broken Computer Power Supply.
4 x Red Cap SPST Momentary Mini Push Button Switch (Normally Open)
4 x 1/4in Maple Board from the local Hardware Store
8 x 1/4in Maple Board from the local Hardware Store
Clear Coat Spray from the local Hardware Store
Lexan Polycarbonate Sheet .093 Clear (Plaskolite)"Can use Plastiglass"
M5 Bolts and Nuts set Mis from the local Hardware Store
Mis screws salvaged from other projects.
Gorilla Superglue, Wood Putty and Wood Glue from the local Hardware Store
Step 2: Write Out the Size of the Box and the Draw Up the Schematics
I will lay out the bigger parts on a piece of graph paper, to get a rough Idea, on the size I will need for the box or case. With this one, I ended up figuring I would need a box 9inch x 6inch x 4 1/2inch. I will then write out my schematics, so I also know how to wire, when the time comes. I will also write notes to self, just to make sure I am reminded when I decided to build. Making a schematic will ensure no question to self, when you decide to wire everything up. I also like to lay out the face design This is normally changed at the end, but it still gives me something to go off of when I decide to drill my holes. Great thing about the graph Paper, I can use exact measurement when I write everything out.
Step 3: Cut the Wood and Plexiglass Needed for the Project and Dry Fit the Parts.
Luckily the Maple board I had purchased was close to the size needed. All I really had to do was cut the length of each board.I just used a basic box design, using the size I came up with in step 2. The Plexiglass is 1/4 inch thick and very simple to cut. I used a plexiglass cutting tool. Both the face and back was the exact same cut, at 9 x 6 inches. The top board, I made sure to cut to 9" and the side, I took 1/2" off the 6inch to make up for the thickness of the top and bottom boards. The cut was 5 1/2 inches. I am sure if you had the tools, you could cut to length and use a 45-degree when cutting the end. I will then place the bigger parts in the frame, held up with whatever I have around. This will give me a rough idea of where I need to place everything and if it's efficient. I ended up deciding to switch the position of the Boost Converter and power supply. I also decided the fan would be more efficient facing the Boost Converter.
Quick Note: On most of my builds that require a fan for cooling. I always use the Buck or a Buck/Boost converter for adjusting the fan speed. Instead of desoldering the small potentiometer. I will just drill a small hole over the converter, in the case and face the converter to the outside of the case. It's not that often you have to adjust the fan speed. But it is nice to have.
Step 4: Draw Out Where the Components on the Case Got and Drill or Dremel Out.
I started with the fan because this would have the most holes drilled. I also lined up the Buck converter so I could mount and drill the hole showing the potentiometer screw. I also decided, to add two more M5 screws, connecting to the power out, to the fan(positive and negative). I like to do this, so I can measure with a multimeter the voltage going into the fan. With the fan, I drew out where it would sit and the circular part where the fan spins. Later I drew out a 1/4" x 1/4" grid or squares, where I would drill 1/8" holes for air flow. I kept the grid inside the circular area. This just makes the holes look a little more symmetrical. I measured where the buck converter and power supply would sit and added the holes for the Mains Power switch and plug. So the fan's air has an outlet and flows over the Main parts, I decided to drill some 3/16" holes on the opposite side, below the mains plug and switch. I measured where I would place the ON/OFF/ON 3 Positions SPDT Round Switch at the top. I like to start with a 1/16" drill bit and work my way to 1/8" Then I will finish off with a step bit. I will add tape to the step bit so I don't make the hole too large. The square Mains and the oddly shaped power-in for the mains, I finished up with a file. I also make it a point to draw out the hole size, so I don't make them to big. Finally, dry fitted the main components(converter and PSU) and drill the mounting holes in the back of the case. Looks like computer motherboard screws will work great for this.
Step 5: Dry Fit , Glue the Case Together and Clear Coat
I will take all the components and dry fit them again to make sure everything lines up and nothing gets in the way. I do this before I glue up the box. Using Small screws, I will predrill and countersink before gluing together. I like to use Gorilla wood glue for projects like this. I will use rubberband on the side and something very heavy to hold the back in place when drying. The Glue says to wait 24 hours for it to fully cure. I used my toolbox filled with New 18650s as weight. I also decided to use some hot glue on the inside of the box, just to help hold. When I feel the glue has set, I will take the small screws out of the sides. Once the glue sets, I will use wood putty to fill the screw holes and sand when dry. Typically wood putty dries pretty fast. Make sure to lightly sand the whole box frame before clear coating. I took the box outside, where there is plenty of ventilation and sprayed a few coats of clear. Make sure when you spray, to lightly coat and let it dry before adding another coat. This will prevent any runs with the clear coat. The clear coat gives the maple a nice wet look, that goes well with plexiglass. It also helps protect the frame from defects. It is good to allow the clear coat to dry completely overnight or at least 8 hours in warm weather.
I almost forgot. During the build. I knew how I wanted to mount the Boost converter's control board and 100V Voltmeter. I just wasn't sure how I was going to hold it in place to mount it where it looked floating.Rummaging around in some smaller clear cases I had saved, I found one that fit perfectly inside and was the perfect width. So I added some 1/4" x 1/4" maple pieces I had at the top and bottom of the case(inside), to use as a bracket. I had to glue and hold with some clamps I had.
Step 6: Dry Fit , Predrill and Screw the Boost Converters Control Board, and Plexiglass
After the wood glue dried and the clear coat set.It's time to start fitting parts. I took the clear lid and dremeled the top off straight to fit inside of the frame. I then placed the Control board and the Voltmeter in place and marked where they needed to be cut out. The back of the control board has 8 male pin headers on both sides. I took the 20cm Jumper Wires/Dupont Cable and made sure they would fit the hole I drilled and the Control board. I also tried to use the same colors on both sides. Once I had the holes drilled, I used plastic nuts and bolts on the voltmeter and Hot glue on the control board to hold them in place. I placed the plexiglass face on the frame, to make sure everything is flush. With the face on, I decided to predrill and add screws. I made sure to draw out the frame on the face because it has a protective film. This will help me when I predrill. I also measured the holes on all 4 sides to keep them straight. Figured 2 inches from the side on the top and bottom, 1 1/2 inches for the side. when predrilling the holes for the face, I used the 1/16 inch bit to drill both the face and wood. Then I used a 1/8" on the face only before screwing in the screws. With the control board holder, I used glasses frame screws to hold this in place.
Step 7: Lined Up, Predrilled and Hacked a Few Momentary Button to Use With the Control-board. Drill Banana Plug Holes.
While I had the screws in the face, Figured I could draw the holes for predrilling. I wasn't sure if I would just use a pin's inside for the buttons. Then I looked at a small momentary button I had. I decided to take the button apart to see what it was made of. Then it hit me. I could just cut off the bottom part of the button. This would leave me with the small metal contact and the top part of the button and panel mount section.Taking the small metal piece off and removing the spring. I screwed the button in place.It would hit the button on the Control board perfect. Nothing falling out and it looked like it belonged. But with 4 together it would be to wide. So I had to take the red button out and use this only(I could have just used the red plastic from the start). I then decided, to add the small metal piece, so it had more surface area to hit the button on the control panel. Found out this would also help hold the red part of the button in.I just took some Gorilla Super glue and attached the metal to the button. After it dried, it worked well and made contact each time with the momentaries on the control board. My only regret was leaving the spring off of the button. This would have helped keep the button a little straight when sitting upright, but not needed. Glad I figured this out, I can see these button coming into play with some upcoming project I have.While I had the face, I figured I would drill the last holes in the face for the Banana plugs. Just made sure to measure both sides before drawing the dot to drill. The banana plug and the small momentary button used a panel mount cutout hole at 1/8". When I drill in plastic like material. I like to use the point on a tack to use as a punch. You can use anything with a fine point. I also screwed in all parts that belong on the face.
Step 8: Tin or Soldered All Wiring and Installed the Parts Belonging to the Outside Frame.
If all the previous prepping was done correctly. You should be able to guestimate the wiring needed. Solder and tin wiring needed for the mains, the fan and buck converter and the on/off/on switch. Using the schematics, connect the mains to the mains switch and get it ready for the 24v PSU. Install the fan and solder to the output of the buck converter. On the output of the small buck converter, connect to the 2 screws. From the incoming side, add 2 longer wires that will connect to the on/off/on switch common(this ensures power on mains or DC. Install the DC jack and add 2 wires. Dc Jack is on the fan side. Make sure all extra wiring is long enough to reach the switch or the Boost converter. Leave only the On/Off/On switch wireless. We'll add all the wiring to the switch when everything is in the case.I used Hot glue to help hold the wiring and the parts in place.
Step 9: Prep and Install the Power Supply, Add Incoming Voltmeter.
With the frame prepped and all the wiring ready. Add the wiring on the DC side to the Power Supply. It might be hard to get to it, once it is screwed in.Install the power supply and screw in the mounting screws in the back of the unit. The Mains coming from the switch(live) and the Plugin(neutral and ground).will screw directly to the power supply. The Ground will need to be screwed to the mounting hole next to the terminal. Make sure you connect this on the mains side. Now the PSU can be powered. From the positive DC terminal(PSU)solder it to the right side of the On/Off/On switch. Solder the Positive from the DC jack on the left side of the On/Off/On switch. Solder another extra Red Wire along with the positive coming from the fan's buck converter(incoming) to the common, on the switch and leave it hanging for the boost converter. Take the negative from the buck converters negative side, the negative from the power supply and the negative from the DC jack and solder together or use a terminal block Make sure to add another negative wire for the Buck converter. I used a terminal block, I also like to use a multimeter and check continuity of all wiring. I will also use Hot glue to isolate the On/off/on plug instead of wrap. With everything complete and waiting for the Boost Converter, install the incoming Voltmeter. Because this will use the incoming voltage, just like the Fan's Buck Converter input power. You can splice into the wiring, solder, and tape. Now the incoming power to the buck converter (top)and the voltmeter will connect to the positive common (ON/off/On switch)and negative shared.
Step 10: Prep and Install 900Watt Boost Convert(BST-900).
Taking the banana plugs brass wire connector. Solder a red and black wire to each, make sure the wire is long enough to reach the boost converter with the face open(helps later on). connect these wires to the Boost converter on the output side according to the polarity on the device. Add the Boost convert to the unit and screw in the back with the mounting holes.There should be one red wire coming from the common on/off/on switch and one black wire coming from the dc jack, Power supply, fan's buck converter and Voltmeter.(you could also use the Extra negative terminal coming out from the power supply). Connect them to the input of the boost converter. You should now only have the 2 wires that screw into the banana plugs hangout of the case. I may have decided to add the positive wire a little later when I installed the face. It can be done either way.
Step 11: Finish Up by Installing the 2 X 8 Pin Header, Voltmeter and Banana Jacks.
Add the 8 pin 20cm Jumper Wires/Dupont Cable to each side of the control module. Use hot glue to keep them together and connected to the back. With the male side of the 8 pin headers, connect to the Boost Converter. Make sure you keep the wiring in order and on the correct side. Bend the jumper cable to the side and install the floating lid holder. Screw in place. Take the red and Blue wire from the 100V Voltmeter and splice or solder to the wires going to the banana plugs. Make sure blue is positive and black is negative. With the 3rd red wire, connect to the red wire of the first voltmeter. This will supply power under 30v's at all times. Finally, connect the banana jack to the connector and bolt in. Should have some extra wire, so it easy to work on and install. It's technically the only part connected to the face.Screw the face on! Now its time to Test!
Step 12: Operations and Testing
Plug in the mains and switch the device on. Make sure the On/Off/On switch is switch to the mains side. You will see the light from the power supply come on and then something will show on the Control Module. Adjust and test voltage. You should also see the 24V on the corner left side voltmeter that shows input voltage. I found this link with instruction on how to use the Boost converter-
http://files.banggood.com/2016/07/User's-manual-of... The reason I added the 100V Voltmeter-When charging, I like to see the Voltage and the amps. With the addition of the Voltmeter, I can use the Module to keep track of the amps. Without the voltmeter, you can only have one or the other with the module. I have seen this converter used to charge e-bikes, run a 120volt light and charge 18650. If I need smaller voltage or I decide to go portable. I can take any battery pack, with the battery pack connected to DC adapter(8volt or higher). Plug into the side(fan side) and switch the ON/Off/On to the Opposite side. This will supply voltage to the Boost convert directly, still running the fan and the voltmeters. You can even use a smaller DC jack to charge batteries under 24V. With the built-in CC/CV with LED. This DC converter is perfect for the higher voltage packs. This is my First Instructable, and hopefully not my last. I will try and post them as I post my Youtube videos. New at that also. It is also very late where I am, and if you see any mistakes, please let me know so I can correct them. I also know, what a pain it can be to research parts when you are new to DIYing. Some of the terminology and Opinions on how to build can be so confusing. Please feel free to ask me anything. I will give you the njfulwider5 Version and it may help.
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What is the estimated cost to build?
Sorry for the late response, for some reason I just got the email with your question. Great Question!!This is just a guestimate. Most of this, I had left over from a previous build and finally found a use for the higher voltage. Here is what I am guestimating-
MingHe 900Watt DC to DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15Amp Max--->$18
AC DC Inverter 110V 220V 100V-265V to 24V 6Amp (9amp max) Switching Power Supply SMPS Adapter-->12$(make sure to buy the same one in the post, so many version out there.)
LM2596 DC-DC Buck adjustable Step-down Power Supply Module-->1$, (purchased a bulk order for 10 at 10$)
Mini DC 0-100V 3-Wire Voltmeter Blue LED-->$1.50
Mini DC 3.3-30V 2 wire Voltmeter Blue LED-->$1.50
16 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->$1 worth(purchased at another time-5 feet for $10)
10 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->1$ worth(purchased at another time-5 feet for 14$)
12 AWG Black and Red Silicone Wire-->1$ worth(purchased at another time-5 feet for 12$)
10 AWG White Silicone Wire-->1$ worth(purchased at another time- 5 feet for 14$)
5.5MMX 2.1 2 Pin Female Power Jack-->.50 cents(purchased at another time-20 for 10$)
Haitronic 20cm Jumper Wires/Dupont Cable-->50 cents(purchased 120 at another time for 8.50$)
VOSO Amplifier Speaker Terminal Binding Post Banana Plug-->$5
Kester Solder 24-6040-0027 60/40 Stand 0.031(costed me 21.99 a few months back)
Kester 951 & 186 Liquid Flux(costed me $9.99 a few months back)
Mis. Shrink Tubing Sleeves(costed me around $6 a few months back)
ON/OFF/ON 3 Positions SPDT Round Boat Rocker Switch 10A/125V 6A/250V-->.25 cents(purchased 50 a few months back)
The 3 prong Mains AC Female, The AC with Light Power switch & 12V Fan was salvaged from a broken Computer Power Supply.(free from someone's throwaways)
4 x Red Cap SPST Momentary Mini Push Button Switch (Normally Open)-.10 cents each(purchased a huge bag for $10 a few months back)
4 x 1/4in Maple Board from the local Hardware Store-->$3
8 x 1/4in Maple Board from the local Hardware Store-->$3
Clear Coat Spray from the local Hardware Store-->$5
1/4 in plexiglass from the local Hardware Store-->left overs, but each sheet was around $3
M5 Bolts and Nuts set Mis from the local Hardware Store-->$10 for a huge lot of mis,
Mis screws salvaged from other projects.(Free)
Gorilla Superglue and Wood Glue from the local Hardware Store -->$5
I am sure you could find the parts cheaper. Most of mine was purchased in the states for quicker delivery. I am starting to realize purchasing my Mis. parts and pieces from China is way way cheaper and well worth the wait. Total guestimated cost-->>$40 to $55 and that is being generous on ebay. Most of the items I had left over from previous builds.
Thanks for the question!