What you need:
black plumbing pipes:
(for top of stand)
1 - 2" piece
2 - 3" pieces
2 - 4" pieces
3 - 3/4" elbows
1 - 3/4" T-joint
(center of stand)
1 - 36" pipe
(Bottom of stand)
4 - 10" pieces of pipe
2 - 12" pieces of pipe
1 - 3/4" T-joint
4 - 3/4" pipe clamps
2 - 32" pieces 2x4
5 velcro straps
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My base is a little different, and the area that I "hang" the bike is also slightly different.
I think your base is more stable than mine, though mine may be easier to store in the car hole. My design has just two "feet" that come out at 45 degrees from the bike angle.
I think my hanger area is a little more versatile regarding different frame designs (and/or small bikes, like my kids 12ers and 16ers).
I have one area that I want to improve.. I "padded" the pipe contact area by wrapping it with a lot of electrical tape, but unfortunately, the tape shrinks over time, and leaves behind a gluey mess that gets on the frame tubing. I need a better padding solution.
Maybe make this stand without all the extra parts on top.
I have tried to give you a drawing example that should give you the idea of what I'm saying.
Also if you don't have other bikes what will need the extra support as show in the first page. Then remove other ends it will have a less width, but may also need it to keep it stable.
Other way you can maybe get it to work is have the top section as above but wider. Instead of having a width of 10inches make it wider so it will grab the end of seat and end of handlebar. But will be hard this way unless you can get something to keep the handlebar from moving. You will also have to come up out about 5 inchs more, so nothing hits the middle pipe.
A couple questions. When you turn the arms (the T-joint), how does it stay in place? It seems like your tightening the t-joint by turning it clockwise, but any chance it might slip back (counter-clockwise)? Or do your just tighten it until the point where it can't slip back?
Thanks for the plan though. Should be perfect.
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at the bottom why not use a 5 gallon bucket half full of cement with a 1 inch pipe in the center.
Then drill holes on each pipe end to use a bolt or a automotive cod pin think thats how you call it. You may need to use a reducer to attach both pipes and you can just remove the pin to store away. As the way it is hard to place anywhere in home or garage.
But lots of pipe insulation is needed, and maybe use pvc pipe at the top section where I mentioned above so the bike will not tilt over.
I do like this alot but cost to much to build when I can get a bike repair stand that will work with all bikes. As someone stated above it won't work for there bike because of suspension. But for 40 bucks on ebay they have a repair stand that is portable and easy to store.
But another note this may be used to do exercise work outs.
Parts cost: $60 Lowes
Parts List:
black plumbing pipes:
(for top of stand)
1 - 2" piece (removed)
2 - 3" pieces (added one more 3")
2 - 4" pieces
3 - 3/4" elbows
1 - 3/4" T-joint
2 - end caps (added)
(center of stand)
1 - 36" pipe (changed to 48")
(Bottom of stand)
4 - 10" pieces of pipe
2 - 12" pieces of pipe
1 - 3/4" T-joint (added two more)
4 - 3/4" pipe clamps (not needed)
2 - 32" pieces 2x4 (not needed)
1 - roll black electrical tape (added)
1 - piece pipe insulation (added)
4 - end caps (added)
1 - hand clamp (added)
I basically used the same assembly. I am assuming that you didn't need the two inch piece because in your tagged photos you show only 3. I took the pipe tubing to protect the bike from the rack and wrapped them all in black tape. Instead of the 2x4's with clamps I put the tubing on the legs and wrapped those as well. It allowed for a more stable balance without the use of the wood. I used the clamp and the clearance is perfect and really locks the bike in place. Thanks again for this.
Here's a link to the particular clamp I used: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=202607-52800-BPC-H12